Jaymack Report post Posted March 9, 2014 I've run out of my can of saddle soap that I use for my edges. before I get some more, I wanted to see which is best, The can of Fiebings Saddle Soap, or the bar of Fiebings Glycerine saddle soap? Thanks for your help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dbusarow Report post Posted March 9, 2014 I don't know which is best, but I prefer the glycerin soap for edges. Dan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted March 9, 2014 I prefer glycerine bar soap too. Might just be that is more what I am used to though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hunter131 Report post Posted March 10, 2014 Bob Park's tutorial says use both Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jaymack Report post Posted March 10, 2014 Thanks guys! I think I'll try the glycerine soap this time. I kept forgetting to put the lid on the can of saddle soap anyways! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
El Zipster Report post Posted March 10, 2014 I too use the Gylcerine bar soap. I haven't used the tin stuff so I can't compare but I get good results with the bar. Cheers Zip Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted March 10, 2014 I use liquid, daubered on. Goes on faster, burnishes very nicely. I just ordered a bar. Going to make my own liquid saddle soap with it. We make our own laundry detergent, might as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigorange Report post Posted March 10, 2014 can the soap be purchased in local stores? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted March 10, 2014 can the soap be purchased in local stores? The horse goods stores sell Fiebings bar soap. Or any drug store has glycerin soap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
hornm Report post Posted March 10, 2014 Depending on how much you want to buy at one time. Check the grooming section for VanDerHagen glycerin shave soap. Small pucks of soap that come in a handy (albeit cheap) plastic "conatiner" inside the cardboard display box. Horn Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted March 14, 2014 I use the Fibiengs saddle soap in a can. Dip a rag in water, then rub it over the can soap, and wipe it on my edges. I use to buy saddle soap in the bar to clean saddles, but never used it for burnishing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted March 14, 2014 can the soap be purchased in local stores? In case that's directed at my liquid saddle soap comment, I got mine at Tractor Supply. They only carry the 16 oz spray. It's made by Fiebings. Springfield leather sells it too. One thing I noticed is that the liquid is less likely to leave any color. I would get some residual yellow from the paste soap. http://springfieldleather.com/22086/Saddle-Soap%2CGlyc%2CLiq.Spray4oz/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Randy Cornelius Report post Posted March 14, 2014 Wet edges, slide the bar soap across the edges to lay down the fibers, then take a piece of canvas or blue jean material and work in the saddle soap from can into the cloth or canvas then rub edges briskley until you get a slick finish. Seal with edge dressing... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted March 14, 2014 Wet edges, slide the bar soap across the edges to lay down the fibers, then take a piece of canvas or blue jean material and work in the saddle soap from can into the cloth or canvas then rub edges briskley until you get a slick finish. Seal with edge dressing... I use a small scrap of leather instead of blue jeans/canvas and gives a nice finish as well. I am going to have to try the blue jean/canvas and see how it compares to my leather scrap. I recently ordered a cocobolo burnisher, and I can't wait to try that out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted March 15, 2014 I have went to....water. And I sand a lot. It is interesting to read about the different techniques but we are missing something. Pictures. It surprised me to read that some sand with very, very, rough grit. I have come to the conclusion that if your edge is very smooth and free of "hair", then it will burnish smoother. I discovered that if I don't sand well, the hair will come to life in form of little bumps. I sand with 220 and finish with 400. I use water sparingly because I have discovered the edge will deform. After sanding and applying the water lightly with a dauber, the leather will be like glass after motorized burnishing. Now comes the real problem to some of us. How do you keep that super glass like look? This is produced with nothing but water and burnishing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
electrathon Report post Posted March 15, 2014 Red, I know that water produces a very nice edge. When I have experimented around water produced some of the best edges. But, they do not seem to last. A few minutes after they are done they look awesome, a little while later they are so/so. Then they do not seem to hold up. I have never tried to varnish them to see if it helps it hold up, this might be the answer. I do agree it would be great if everyone posted a pic of the edges they got with each product. Aaron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) Why not. Cut. Sand with drum sander to square the edges. Dampen edges. Bevel edges. Light burnish with rub stick while damp. Later, wet with liquid saddle soap and burnish on drill mounted burnisher. Let dry. Rub with beeswax/paraffin mix and burnish by hand with rub stick. Finish with M&G 50/50. Edited March 15, 2014 by chiefjason Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
