JDM Report post Posted May 31, 2014 When hand sewing, how do you prefer to groove the inside stitch lines for holsters? I mean the outline of the handgun on the inside along the trigger guard, cylinder or undercover on an auto? I mean how to actually make the grooves following your predetermined stitch lines on your pattern on the front side of the holster as well as the back. Do you draw out the top with a pencil or whatever, poke through with an awl, then create the groove on the back using a freehand grooving tool following the awl pokes? If so, I hope the grooving tool cuts better than the defective one I just bought. If you want dual matching stitch lines, how do you mark and cut the second line to accurately match the first? For a production item, I'm thinking a stencil made for the task would work best for all of this, but how do you do the one-off's? Maybe I'm just disgusted with the non-cutting ability, bad from the beginning, as in can't even be stropped to be fixed, made in China freehand groover I paid too much for, but surely there is a better way to go about doing this than trying to drag a rough tool down a pencil line or on the backside following awl hole pokes that you can't even see very well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted May 31, 2014 I lay out the front, punch holes, and freehand the back. I picked up my freehand groover from Springfield leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted May 31, 2014 I have three groovers, . . . one is permanently set and cut off so it grooves at app 3/16 and is used for edges on almost anything and everything. The second is an easily adjustable one, . . . unscrew the hold down nut, . . . move in or out, . . . tighten, . . . and groove. Normally it is set for the second line, . . . and is appropriately spaced to give a parallel line to the first. NOW, . . . the free hand one, . . . used to mark and groove the trigger guard and barrel area on my holsters. I don't groove the back sides of my holsters. If I do anything, . . . it is to take a pair of dividers and make indented grooves in stead of gouges. For the trigger guard and barrel, . . . I don't do anything. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted May 31, 2014 I do not use a groove cutter. Used to but I do a lot of natural finish and if you are just a tad off it shows. I machine sew. I took the groove device, removed the cutter and made an Allen tool with a rounded V bottom. And if I have a senior moment I can "erase" the groove. And I used to do the back. No more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
doubleh Report post Posted May 31, 2014 I use an adjustable groover on the front and back. I also cheat a little. Due to arthritis in my wrist pushing a stabbing awl through a couple of layers of heavy quickly becomes very uncomfortable. I groove the front and then go to the drill press with a 1/16 bit. If you pay attention and keep things level the holes will be even on the back and then I groove them. Then I go to the stabbing awl to make my stitch lay the way I want. I hardly ever do a double row of stitching as my holster style doesn't need it but I don't see why this method wouldn't work with two rows. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted June 1, 2014 Doubleh, I go straight to the diamond awl chucked in the drill press. Works just fine. Although I groove the back afterwards because the awl can move a bit as it passes through the leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RoosterShooter Report post Posted June 1, 2014 You'll find that you will use 3 types, as many have said, if you do much leatherwork. 1) Standard Saddle Groover 2) Professional style Groover 3) Freehand Groover Before I ever use a freehand groover I trace my mark with a stylus marking tool with a tiny ball on the end. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites