Chink Makers: Question About Cutting Fringe...

[thenrie]

I was just getting ready to start stitching on my first pair of chinks, when it occurred to me that it might be easier to cut the fringe before getting every thing sewed together. On these chinks, the fringe is cut from the outer part of the legging, rather than being a separate piece sewed on. I had been thinking I would cut the fringe last thing, but decided to wait and see how experienced folks do it before I get started.

Do you cut your fringe before you start stitching or after everything else is done?

Second question: Has anyone tried cutting fringe with an Australian lace cutter? I thought I might give that a try. Seems like it would be easier, and less chance of messing things up, than me, in my inexperience, trying to do it with a round knife. Thoughts?

Thanks.

[dirtclod]

I cut the fringe right after i cut the chinks out. Generally i use a plastic quilters ruler to cut against after i decide what angle i'm going to cut on. Cutting i use a round or head knife and scoot the ruler over about a 1/4 inch making the fringe a 1/4 inch wide are around that. When you get to the bottom going around the curve you will more than likely have to cut a few small pieces out. You'll see what i'm talking about when you get there. I make a light chalk mark around the chink before i start cutting to have something to go by. That way they will be close to the same length.

A lace cutter would take FOREVER !!!

[oltoot]

Last and bad idea.

[thenrie]

Thanks to you both.

[BondoBobCustomSaddles]

Tony, I cut fringe last, if it is part of the outer leg leather. I use a plastic straight edge as a guide, mark every 6" or so with a fine line marker to give me an "angle check" so that my fringe stays on the same angle all the way along the length of the fringe, and last, I use a olfa rotary cutter I stole from my wife when she wasn't looking, she is a quilter, and has more than she needs anyway, she never missed it.

Bob

[Dwight]

I took the advice of someone somewhere (maybe on here) and made myself two fringe cutting templates.

They are clear plexiglass, . . . with lines spaced 1/4 inch apart on one, . . . 5/16 on the other one, . . . lines scratched into the surface.

In the center of the piece (about 4 inches wide, . . . 9 inches long) is a cut with a hack saw. I roll a rotary cutter down the hack saw cut, . . . move it to the left to see the cut line covered by one of the scratched lines, . . . and just keep rolling down.

I have lines going across it to indicate different lengths for the fringe.

Using my system, . . . it's pretty hard not to make good looking fringe.

And yes, . . . fringe cutting is THE last thing done. Otherwise, . . . I'd somehow sew some of it up somewhere, . . . somehow, . . . cause I know me. AND, . . . it lets me know that the work is almost done when I'm doing the fringe, . . . I can chill and enjoy the experience.

May God bless,

Dwight

[thenrie]

Hmmm. I like template idea. Looks like I'll be buying a rotary cutter, too.

Do you set the angle of the fringe and keep that same angle all the way around, or do you make corrections along the way by taking a small wedge out here and there? I guess what I'm asking is whether the goal is to keep the same angle, or do you plan for correcting the angle along the way?

Do you have a method of starting your fringe cuts with the right angle, or is it just eyeball and experience?

[Dwight]

1. Hmmm. I like template idea. Looks like I'll be buying a rotary cutter, too.

2. Do you set the angle of the fringe and keep that same angle all the way around, or do you make corrections along the way by taking a small wedge out here and there? I guess what I'm asking is whether the goal is to keep the same angle, or do you plan for correcting the angle along the way?

3. Do you have a method of starting your fringe cuts with the right angle, or is it just eyeball and experience?

1. I didn't invent this thing, . . . someone else (I think on this website) gave me the idea, . . . but that is how I made my template. And get the BIG rotary cutter, I think it might be 60mm, . . . around 2 inches in diameter. I have a little one, . . . don't like it anywhere near as well as the big one. Also be careful, . . . they ARE sharp, . . . and will cut you bad, . . . quickly.

2. I start out with a downward slant, . . . probably something near 45 degrees, . . . as i hit the corner, . . . I add a few degrees to each cut, . . . and it works out. I did take out a wedge on at least one pair, . . . then tried just sliding around, . . . it seemed to work as well, . . . and is a lot quicker.

I mean, . . . how many judges are going to walk up to a contestant with a pair of calipers and say "Let me measure the width of your fringe, . . . gotta be perfectly equal all the way around".

3. For now it is just eyeball, . . . gimme a couple years, . . . then we'll call it experience too.

May God bless,

Dwight

[thenrie]

LOL. Thanks, Dwight.

[oltoot]

The idea is to maintain a length, which determines the angle and yes small wedges along the way keep things going right. A 6" fringe does not require 6" onto the pattern but the starting angle adjusted to get a 6" result. The bottom where the fringe hangs staight down would be the exception and a wedge at the juncture of side and bottom makes the correction, then gather up the fringe on either side of the wedge for a few inches and taper the line to smoothly blend in to both the side and the bottom. If you make adjustments going down the side, blending in a few each side will do. The object of the blending being to prevent any sudden changes in fringe length. I have a 3" addition for side fringe from which I can cut any length up to ~12" and then measure down the desired length of fringe to get the starting angle and then eyeball from there. Bottom is adjusted based on desired fringe length and desired startin/ending points for fringe on length. It is harder to try to describe than to do. My advice, don't overthink it, it doesn't have to be rocket science.

Edited July 7, 2014 by oltoot