Problem With Eco-Flo Gel Antique

[FaireLeatherFriend]

Miel,

I use the Antiques more than any other dyes. I LOVE them. I wear a belt I made 5 years ago that is finished with the Tan Antique and a couple coats of Tandy's Super Sheen. I also almost exclusively use Super Sheen as a top coat. Like Resolene, it is an acrylic, but it doesn't dry as fast. I have never had issues with bleeding color. I have also used Saddlelac and Spray Sheen with good results on occasion, but Super Sheen is my "Go To" finish.

[jrny4wrd]

Anybody try a beeswax over the antique?

[alfredleatherworks]

I find this topic interesting as I have just had Tandy's Gel Antique recommended to me for a project I have. I've already screwed this project up once, I cannot afford to do so again. I am making a belt and intend to use a resist technique after hand-painting the knotwork that runs most of the belt's length. The background is what I'm thinking of using the gel antique for, but it will be no good if the color runs. So far I've seen a lot of back and forth on the topic and that makes me a bit hesitant to use it for the first time on a project I am already running behind on.

[Trixy]

I totally agree with my fellow leatherworkers here that the Tandy Gel Antique is not working well. I just made 4 guitar straps for a customer and used the Gel over cova color used on a tooled design and over airbrushed tooling work. The gel doesn't spread evenly -it dries way to quick - leaving ugly spots and streaks, and it stains the covacolor and airbrush paint and it won't come off. So I had to repaint and airbrush again after the gel. I am used to the beautiful antique effect you can create with Fiebings antique stain, you work it in by generously applying it over the tooled and smooth surfaces, rubbing in circles. After a short time it will become a bit tacky and a darker build up of antique stain appears on the outer edges where you rub it in, you can then take a slightly damp sponge and take excess of stain of making some parts of your work lighter. Also it is very easy to take the stain of your cova paint. With this Tandy gel you can't. It does not come off it gets 'bone dry' and you can't work with it at all. The reason I had to buy these (thank God only small bottles) is this Tandy store did not offer anything else. I won't buy this again. Trixy

[epiphanist1248]

I've had good and bad experience with the Antique Gels. I've used Saddle Tan, Dark Brown, Briar Brown, and Mahogeny. LOVE the colors. But lately I made a belt and stained it Dark Brown ... came out beautifully ... but then when I applied finish (Angelus satin) it pulled up some of the stain and came out streaky. My first thought was that the stain just hadn't dried yet (I was a bit impatient) but now that I see others have had streaking problems I don't know. So now I'm going to have to figure out some way to strip the finish and reapply stain. This time I'll use a heat gun to dry it. If it still streaks I'll know it's the product and not me.

All that said, I've never had this streaking problem before.  

I've also noticed that Springfield Leather has stopped carrying Antique Gel and now has something called Antique Paste. Anybody tried it?

[NVLeatherWorx]

27 minutes ago, epiphanist1248 said:

I've had good and bad experience with the Antique Gels. I've used Saddle Tan, Dark Brown, Briar Brown, and Mahogeny. LOVE the colors. But lately I made a belt and stained it Dark Brown ... came out beautifully ... but then when I applied finish (Angelus satin) it pulled up some of the stain and came out streaky. My first thought was that the stain just hadn't dried yet (I was a bit impatient) but now that I see others have had streaking problems I don't know. So now I'm going to have to figure out some way to strip the finish and reapply stain. This time I'll use a heat gun to dry it. If it still streaks I'll know it's the product and not me.

All that said, I've never had this streaking problem before.  

I've also noticed that Springfield Leather has stopped carrying Antique Gel and now has something called Antique Paste. Anybody tried it?

First, this is a common issue with water based products and it has been addressed repeatedly within these forums.  Second, never ever force dry any finish or otherwise; it prevents the product from curing properly and will lead to even bigger issues.  If you are going to get serious about leather work then you need to be patient as that is the only way that you actually get better and your finished products improve as well.  

The Antique Paste, which is from Fiebing's, is the original Antique product that has been around for years and has proven track record.  However, as with any other finish or sealer, let it dry and cure for at least 24 hours before you move on to the next step; this applies to ANY type of color finish or top coat.

[Doc Reaper]

Eco Flo that I have is just a bit thicker than milk, is this normal

[fredk]

No, it should be more like toothpaste