Simple Guitar Strap

[Chief31794]

The customer wanted a simple brown guitar strap with their name on it, here tis'.

Chief

[Rohn]

Nice work as usual.

[DoubleC]

Looks great Chief. Cheryl

[Colt W Knight]

I am amazed when I see people who can dye just one side of the leather cleanly. That is definitely not a skill I possess.

[Chief31794]

Nice work as usual.

Thanks Rohn.

Looks great Chief. Cheryl

Thanks Cheryl.

I am amazed when I see people who can dye just one side of the leather cleanly. That is definitely not a skill I possess.

Thanks Colt, I tape the back with blue painters tape and then dye the front, I use Rabbit Fur to apply the dye, normally dampen the leather with either destilled water or denatured alcohol, depending on what type of dye it is. With these antique dyes from Fiebings, I put it on pretty thick, then wipe it off with a clean cloth just before it drys and that sort of spreads the dye and basically makes it more consistent, then I wait about 1 minute and then rewipe the item with a dampened cloth with the same product I used to pre-dampen the leather, that removes some of the surface pigment and again spreads the dye a little to make it more consistent, it smooths out even more after it has thorughly dryed (about 12 hours), I put neatsfoot oil on with a cloth and that seems to help as well. After that dries (another 8-12 hours), then I normally use Clear Lac to seal it. Then I take the tape off the back, a little will get on the edges so I don't bevel the back until after it's dyed (I bevel the front before), beveling now removes the slight amount on the back edges and makes them appear trimmed. Hope that helps,

Chief

[eglideride]

Wow, what a great finish tutorial Chief- great tips!

Thanks!!!

[Chief31794]

Wow, what a great finish tutorial Chief- great tips!

Thanks!!!

Thank you sir,

Chief

[Dan28]

Thanks Rohn.

Thanks Cheryl.

Thanks Colt, I tape the back with blue painters tape and then dye the front, I use Rabbit Fur to apply the dye, normally dampen the leather with either destilled water or denatured alcohol, depending on what type of dye it is. With these antique dyes from Fiebings, I put it on pretty thick, then wipe it off with a clean cloth just before it drys and that sort of spreads the dye and basically makes it more consistent, then I wait about 1 minute and then rewipe the item with a dampened cloth with the same product I used to pre-dampen the leather, that removes some of the surface pigment and again spreads the dye a little to make it more consistent, it smooths out even more after it has thorughly dryed (about 12 hours), I put neatsfoot oil on with a cloth and that seems to help as well. After that dries (another 8-12 hours), then I normally use Clear Lac to seal it. Then I take the tape off the back, a little will get on the edges so I don't bevel the back until after it's dyed (I bevel the front before), beveling now removes the slight amount on the back edges and makes them appear trimmed. Hope that helps,

Chief

That's good info. I haven't yet purposely tried to keep a clean side but noticed this weekend when I was dying my first purse on one side that I did get a few spots of dye on the flesh side. Now my intention was to line the flesh side with pig skin so it wasn't a problem for me, but it did get me to thinking that if I had wanted it just unfinished leather I would have screwed it up. Now I will employ your method when a project comes up that I only want one side dyed Thanks.

[Chief31794]

That's good info. I haven't yet purposely tried to keep a clean side but noticed this weekend when I was dying my first purse on one side that I did get a few spots of dye on the flesh side. Now my intention was to line the flesh side with pig skin so it wasn't a problem for me, but it did get me to thinking that if I had wanted it just unfinished leather I would have screwed it up. Now I will employ your method when a project comes up that I only want one side dyed Thanks.

Thanks, one of the things I didn't mention, is that although the back is taped and you trim the edges, you may get a few small spots on the back particularly near the edges, I work hard to keep them off, when they get there and don't fall into the edge bevel area, I use a hand held skiver to gently remove them from the surface, then if necessary you can sand the back if you have to get a little deep but usually not.

Thanks,

Chief

[Frederiek]

Beautiful in its simplicity, very nice