Roll Top Bag

[Hi Im Joe]

Hello Everyone,

I'm a huge fan of Teranishi Brand and decided to try my hand at an interpretation of his "Daytripper" bag. I love the roll top design and simplicity of the bag.

The bag is made out of Horween Crimson Vintage along with Hermann Oak London Tan straps and accents.

A couple things I learned:

1. I should have cut a notch between the invisible seam and where the roll top starts so everything lays flat.

2. I should have skived the corners to help with sewing over the turns.

3. I need a hand press for rivets and snaps.

The D rings are for attaching a shoulder strap that is not shown in the photos. I put the Ds on all four strap ends so the bag could be worn over the left or right shoulder. There is also a D on the inside behind the buckle to clip your keys too.

Let me know what you guys think and tell me what I could do differently or better!

Thanks for looking,

Joe

[billybopp]

Hey Joe!

It looks great looking bag!

Some thing to consider:

The light edges look great. You may want to try an edge paint on the darker leather, assuming it's not burnishable (if that's a word).

I'm certainly no expert on machine sewing leather, but it looks to me like the thread might be a little thin for the hole the needle is making. Smaller needle or bigger thread?? (maybe a sew pro can comment on that)

It looks like the stitch line is wandering a little bit / uneven from the edges. If you don't have an edge guide, it would be a great thing to have! I sew fabric now and then and wouldn't try a lot of things without one.

Brass hardware might be a better match for the colors you're using if you were to make another .. That's more a matter for personal taste, tho.

You might look around on here for the thread about an ebay rivet setter. They are considerably cheaper than the Tandy ones, and folks have good things to say about them. I bought a Tandy and LOVE it for snaps, rivets, grommets, and everything else. I almost never set by hand now.

Keep up the good work!!

Bill

[Hi Im Joe]

Hey Joe!

It looks great looking bag!

Some thing to consider:

The light edges look great. You may want to try an edge paint on the darker leather, assuming it's not burnishable (if that's a word).

I'm certainly no expert on machine sewing leather, but it looks to me like the thread might be a little thin for the hole the needle is making. Smaller needle or bigger thread?? (maybe a sew pro can comment on that)

It looks like the stitch line is wandering a little bit / uneven from the edges. If you don't have an edge guide, it would be a great thing to have! I sew fabric now and then and wouldn't try a lot of things without one.

Brass hardware might be a better match for the colors you're using if you were to make another .. That's more a matter for personal taste, tho.

You might look around on here for the thread about an ebay rivet setter. They are considerably cheaper than the Tandy ones, and folks have good things to say about them. I bought a Tandy and LOVE it for snaps, rivets, grommets, and everything else. I almost never set by hand now.

Keep up the good work!!

Bill

Thanks Bill. Your insights are awesome as usual!

The thread is 69 sized bonded nylon with a size 18 needle which I believe is correct. I think part of it is the illusion of a black hole with black thread?

Yeah the stitch line did wander a bit on the closure strap especially. I do not have an edge guide. I just need more hours on the machine. I am still a relative newbie.

Yeah I think brass would definitely look very nice. I however had nickel stuff on hand so that's what I went with...I'm cheap...lol.

I absolutely plan to get a hand press. I'll probably buy the one from gold star tools as it seems to be by far the most reasonable.

Thanks again for taking the time to write up such a detailed response!

Joe

[Jimbob]

Love the color, love the oil tan ? leather and love the style....

interresting design and welll executed....

some detail I have seen, cheap rivets make a cheap bag....use higher quality rivets or all sewn....your stitches look, and I couldbe dead wrong, to big for the thread u used....to big of a needle?....also wonder if you had to much top tension....I would have used tan or earth color for thread, where the bag is rolled and connected there needs to be re-enforcement so it wont tear on the seams. All in all a wonderful bag and very nicely made....again, I love thestyleand color!!!

Well done!!!!

jimboob

[Jimbob]

just read now....69 thread is way to small......use 138 a classic and rustic bag can go with big thread !!!

[Hi Im Joe]

Love the color, love the oil tan ? leather and love the style....

interresting design and welll executed....

some detail I have seen, cheap rivets make a cheap bag....use higher quality rivets or all sewn....your stitches look, and I couldbe dead wrong, to big for the thread u used....to big of a needle?....also wonder if you had to much top tension....I would have used tan or earth color for thread, where the bag is rolled and connected there needs to be re-enforcement so it wont tear on the seams. All in all a wonderful bag and very nicely made....again, I love thestyleand color!!!

Well done!!!!

jimboob

Those are awesome points! I would like to move to copper rivets if I am going to have to hand set rivets. I plan on buying a hand press for sure.

I will try to lessen the top tension and see how it comes out. I am a total novice with sewing machines and am trying to learn as I go. It's trial and error for me.

I tried using 138 with a 23 needle on an Adler 67 but the machine did not like it. I got a lot of fraying and a ton of skipped stitches.

There are rivets on the inside at the top of each side seam to help to keep the top of the bag together.

Thank you for the awesome advice. Btw where can I buy quality rivets?

[Constabulary]

I like this bag too! My idea would be that you probably could make the flap out of heavy canvas instead of leather. I think that would give the bag a "lighter look" if you know what I mean. If you´re going to make more of these bags you could give the flap different colours just to give your customer a choice. And I´d probably add a bottom parts in the same color.

Just my view as a customer (not a leather worker)

Nice bag - really!

[Frederiek]

I like that a lot, beautiful model and great choice of leather! I think the veg tan will nicely colour with age so it looks even better.

Something I would consider is handstitching the visible seams (in a heavier weight thread, in a better matching colour (I see that was mentioned already, tan would be nice)).

Maybe I'm saying something really stupid, but is the D-ring connection with the rivets strong enough?

What might also be nice is to make the front flap fold over, so that the top stitches are on the inside (does that make sense?).

[tatehunt]

Nice bag. I still hand sew leather, as the industrial machines are out of my price range. Positive thing about that, is I know my stitch size, thread, and lines will all work, no fussing with a machine settings between each project, and it's a great workout.

I have made lots of outdoor gear with my Juki,including a roll top for my back pack, so I am digging this roll top idea.

[MonicaJacobson]

Hey Joe,

LOL, you're getting so much actual criticism, Joe, because your bag is so good that all of it has to be said. What Frederiek said about the d rings. And I wonder if you should flair outward as the bag goes up, but still stitch the whole rolled part all the way up to the top.

Super cool bag, great looking leather, and a lot of cool details.

[Hi Im Joe]

OMG so many great posts and comments! I'll try to address them all...

I like this bag too! My idea would be that you probably could make the flap out of heavy canvas instead of leather. I think that would give the bag a "lighter look" if you know what I mean. If you´re going to make more of these bags you could give the flap different colours just to give your customer a choice. And I´d probably add a bottom parts in the same color.

Just my view as a customer (not a leather worker)

Nice bag - really!

Thanks Constabulary! I think making the flap out of some type of heavy canvas is definitely an option! I'd have to find a good supplier. Maybe heavy duty 1000 denier nylon? I have almost zero experience with fabric...LOL.

I like that a lot, beautiful model and great choice of leather! I think the veg tan will nicely colour with age so it looks even better.

Something I would consider is handstitching the visible seams (in a heavier weight thread, in a better matching colour (I see that was mentioned already, tan would be nice)).

Maybe I'm saying something really stupid, but is the D-ring connection with the rivets strong enough?

What might also be nice is to make the front flap fold over, so that the top stitches are on the inside (does that make sense?).

I like the idea of handstitching but I think I'd rather figure out my machine issues. Mastering the sewing machine is a big deal to me and it's something I'm committed to doing. You make a good point about the D-ring but I think it will hold up fine. However, time will tell. I thought about folding the flap over like that but the veg was just too stiff. The next one I make out of softer temper leather will be done how you describe.

Nice bag. I still hand sew leather, as the industrial machines are out of my price range. Positive thing about that, is I know my stitch size, thread, and lines will all work, no fussing with a machine settings between each project, and it's a great workout.

I have made lots of outdoor gear with my Juki,including a roll top for my back pack, so I am digging this roll top idea.

Thank you!

Hey Joe,

LOL, you're getting so much actual criticism, Joe, because your bag is so good that all of it has to be said. What Frederiek said about the d rings. And I wonder if you should flair outward as the bag goes up, but still stitch the whole rolled part all the way up to the top.

Super cool bag, great looking leather, and a lot of cool details.

Monica thank you so much! This is exactly the type of discussion I love having. There are so many ways to skin a cat that hearing others opinions and ideas is always so helpful for both design and construction. I think the D-rings will be ok but time will tell. I thought about stitching the flaps together but what stopped me was leaving them apart allows you to fold the top over when its open so you don't have to stick your whole arm in the bag. Also, having the flaps separate allows you to see into the bag easier.

[thefanninator]

Hey great looking bag. I see you've already answered questions about the stitching but I was going to say basically the same things... thread looks small for the holes and hand stitching would look great too. Good job!

[Hi Im Joe]

Hey great looking bag. I see you've already answered questions about the stitching but I was going to say basically the same things... thread looks small for the holes and hand stitching would look great too. Good job!

Thank you sir!

[Neillo]

Looking great Joe!

I see what you mean about where the seam meets the roll top, but in proper roll top dry bags (I use them when kayaking) the seam goes all the way to the top.

I've had good luck with using a 4-6mm (5/32" - 1/4") Hole punch in situations like that, so that when the seam flexes, the leather will create it's own relief.

Mind you, proper dry bags are made of relatively light, supple material , so sewing an inverted, or "invisible" seam all the the way up the the top would necessitate the use of much lighter leather than any sensible leatherworker would typically use on a bag, at least not without some serious compromises.

A regular external seam (with the leather edges showing) Would, of course, lend itself much better to a roll top design, but getting it to look good would require a bit of design ingenuity! It's a challenge it think you're more than capable of meeting, so maybe some prototyping is in order!

I really like the D-rings at the strap anchor points, having the option for removable and changeable straps is great and something I always go for on my bags, and the colour of those straps works really nicely with the colour of the bag!

Only real critique I can offer is that the thread should be at least V138-V207 and 1.2-2SPI finer, V92 is a widely held minimum standard for marine and auto upholstery where I'm from; and that's for working with light weight leathers. You could probably get away with V277 on the high side, but at the end of the day it's your preference and it's probably best to get hold of some thread samples to test before you buy bulk, as big spools of poly aren't cheap!

Keep up the great work Joe, Your spirit of innovation and trying new things all the time is inspiring!

[Hi Im Joe]

Thank you very much Neillo! My intention was not to make an actual dry bag so I'm not too worried about the seam going all the way to the top. I think the added ease of entry and seeing down into the bag is more important. Leaving the roll top un-sewn (is that even a word?) really helps to make it easier to get into the bag.

I'm working on the next bag using 138 sized thread. I'm not sure my machine can handle anything more robust than that. However, for some reason I get a lot of fraying and skipped stitches once I move up to 138 thread. I have to figure that one out. The skipped stitches are driving me bloody crazy.

[jqtoms]

Very nice. The brown pops.

[Hi Im Joe]

Very nice. The brown pops.

Thanks!

[Jimbob]

Go to leather sewing machines on this forum here...aske for Wizz or Toledo Bob...they can help you in no time....I ave an ADLER 105 and of course 138 is no problem on top....try to play with your top tension wheel and how you route your thread for less friction.....then try different size needle, go bigger and see...your 67 should be able to handle 138 !!! I also got an ADLER 267 and 138 on top works fine too !!!

See ifyou needle has nicks or been bruised....is it sharp...??

See if your 138 is left winded or right winded....makes BIG difference !!

Check you timing....is your needle hole coming up 1/16 to the hook when it comes arround...??

Let us know what happened...

[Hi Im Joe]

Thank you for the tips!

[jqtoms]

After seeing this bag again, I noticed some of the nice details like the leather piece that holds the D-ring at the bottom of the handles. That was a very good touch.

[Hi Im Joe]

Thanks!