Roll Top Version 2

[Hi Im Joe]

So I got so much great feedback I decided to make another roll top bag. This one is made out of Horween Dark Cognac Essex. I used all copper rivets and antique brass snaps. I think the colors look very nice with this bag.

I also used size 138 thread which definitely looks better. Although my machine does not like it. I get skipped stitches as well as top thread fraying a lot with size 138 thread. I need to try and figure that out...any tips would be great appreciated. I'm using a size 22 needle with an adler 67 sewing machine.

I added finger tabs for the the snaps because on the original bag its a b*tch to snap the flap closed. The tabs help a ton!

This is the first time I've used copper rivets as well. OMG I love them so much more than rapid rivets.

Thanks again for all the comments on the last thread. It helped me make this bag which I think is definitely an improvement!

Joe

Edited September 19, 2014 by Hi Im Joe

[cgleathercraft]

Very Nice!

What do you use inside the handles to help them keep their shape (fullness)?

[DavidL]

have you considered sewing the bottom half of the bag using a different style of bottom? For example with leather stiffener on the bottom or with leather reinforced edges to add more emphasis to the bottom part on the bag.

[billybopp]

Looks really good! The copper rivets work really well with that color. I love the way the roll-top strap snap attaches so that you can get ahold to snap/unsnap it! The stitching is looking good too.

Well done!

Bill

[Colt W Knight]

Bags look nice. I want to start making bags soon. Quick question, why the roll top instead of something like a zipper or hasp?

[Grumpy Coyote]

So good. Beautiful version - and much improved. Do you have any shots of it open?

[Hi Im Joe]

Very Nice!

What do you use inside the handles to help them keep their shape (fullness)?

Thank you! At first I used a poly or nylon cord but now I don't use anything. I just glue the edges and fold it over.

have you considered sewing the bottom half of the bag using a different style of bottom? For example with leather stiffener on the bottom or with leather reinforced edges to add more emphasis to the bottom part on the bag.

Umm...no. For this bag I intended to make a t-slot style tote bag like the daytripper from teranishi. My next bag will be some type of "doctor" style bag...meaning a separate bottom with no gussets on the side. Basically the bottom will dictate the width of the bag. I'm going to try and mock up some stuff with paper to get the pattern right because I've never made a bag like that before. I'm sure it will take some trial and error (probably more error).

Looks really good! The copper rivets work really well with that color. I love the way the roll-top strap snap attaches so that you can get ahold to snap/unsnap it! The stitching is looking good too.

Well done!

Bill

Thanks Bill! The finger tab was an absolute necessity after making the first version. It was a total bitch to snap the flap closed without the finger tab.

Bags look nice. I want to start making bags soon. Quick question, why the roll top instead of something like a zipper or hasp?

I've done some zipper topped bags as well but really it was just a style choice. I like how it looks. There really is no functional reason. In fact it's really not the most practical of bags to get into but I like how it looks so...I went with it.

So good. Beautiful version - and much improved. Do you have any shots of it open?

Thank you sir! I'll try to take a shot of it unrolled tomorrow and post it up.

.

[Grey Drakkon]

Your first bag was really nice, but this one blows it out of the water. The copper adds to the overall warmth of it, and the white stitching (love the thickness of it, by the way, well worth it being a pain) makes it really pop.

[Colt W Knight]

Just read your post about the frayed thread. I went through that when I switched to 138.

What I found is that indexing the needle properly was key with the larger thread. When I used #92 thread, it really wasn't that big of an issue. However, when I switched to 138, I found that the slot on the needle has to be aligned perfectly, or it causes fraying problems. The needles I use don't have a flat spot to index them, so I have to watch very carefully to keep the grooved side of the needle on the left and not twisted any to the back or front. Another thing I noticed that would cause problems is if the bobbin was almost empty, or the needle is dull/nicked.

I just read another post of the Leather Sewing Machine forum that said you can easily index the needle by using a toothpick.

Edited September 20, 2014 by Colt W Knight

[silverwingit]

What a difference the experience of having made a project for the first time makes! That second time it always seems to work out so much better than the first.

So it is with your bags, Joe. This second one is really a statement of your personal tastes as well as a testament to your ever-increasing leatherwork skills. My hat is off to ya!

As to a zipper versus your roll-top, I see lots of zipper-top bags of varying quality of design and build, but few rolls-tops. Roll tops harken back to a previous era before YKK existed. The roll-top design, with properly treated leather makes a good water and dust-tight seal, probably better than anything but a water-resistant zipper of today's design and manufacture. In fact, it is how those water-proof bags that are made for boating and rafting today are constructed.

You are talking about your next bag. Have you ever seen a Portmanteau bag, circa 1700-1900? I think one would be a natural extension of the direction you're taking. It too would be a unique period piece rather than just another modern-looking bag. Retro is good these days.

https://img0.etsystatic.com/028/0/5147816/il_340x270.621944846_r7ha.jpg

Keep it up, Joe. I can't wait to see what you come up with next. You are the Joe Namath of leatherworker.net in the sense that I can't wait 'till tomorrow because your leatherwork gets better every day.

Michelle

Edited September 20, 2014 by silverwingit

[Hi Im Joe]

Your first bag was really nice, but this one blows it out of the water. The copper adds to the overall warmth of it, and the white stitching (love the thickness of it, by the way, well worth it being a pain) makes it really pop.

Thank you very much!

Just read your post about the frayed thread. I went through that when I switched to 138.

What I found is that indexing the needle properly was key with the larger thread. When I used #92 thread, it really wasn't that big of an issue. However, when I switched to 138, I found that the slot on the needle has to be aligned perfectly, or it causes fraying problems. The needles I use don't have a flat spot to index them, so I have to watch very carefully to keep the grooved side of the needle on the left and not twisted any to the back or front. Another thing I noticed that would cause problems is if the bobbin was almost empty, or the needle is dull/nicked.

I just read another post of the Leather Sewing Machine forum that said you can easily index the needle by using a toothpick.

I'll definitely double check and make sure I have the thing indexed correctly. Could you explain how to use the toothpick to index it? Thank you for the suggestion. I hope it solves my problem!

What a difference the experience of having made a project for the first time makes! That second time it always seems to work out so much better than the first.

So it is with your bags, Joe. This second one is really a statement of your personal tastes as well as a testament to your ever-increasing leatherwork skills. My hat is off to ya!

As to a zipper versus your roll-top, I see lots of zipper-top bags of varying quality of design and build, but few rolls-tops. Roll tops harken back to a previous era before YKK existed. The roll-top design, with properly treated leather makes a good water and dust-tight seal, probably better than anything but a water-resistant zipper of today's design and manufacture. In fact, it is how those water-proof bags that are made for boating and rafting today are constructed.

You are talking about your next bag. Have you ever seen a Portmanteau bag, circa 1700-1900? I think one would be a natural extension of the direction you're taking. It too would be a unique period piece rather than just another modern-looking bag. Retro is good these days.

https://img0.etsystatic.com/028/0/5147816/il_340x270.621944846_r7ha.jpg

Keep it up, Joe. I can't wait to see what you come up with next. You are the Joe Namath of leatherworker.net in the sense that I can't wait 'till tomorrow because your leatherwork gets better every day.

Michelle

Thank you so much for the kind words Michelle! Having made the thing once before really does help to iron out the kinks. That Portmanteau bag definitely looks interesting and maybe I'll take a stab at it sometime in the near future. It is very nice and reassuring to hear people tell you you are getting better. Especially people that have no vested interest in making you feel good about yourself (i.e. friends, family). It confirms that I'm headed in the right direction. So once again thank you for taking the time to stop by and comment!

[Frederiek]

A huge improvement on an already beautiful bag!

[Hi Im Joe]

A huge improvement on an already beautiful bag!

Thanks Frederiek!

[jqtoms]

I like the copper rivets as well! They look timeless.

[Hi Im Joe]

I like the copper rivets as well! They look timeless.

Thanks! The copper rivets are a vast improvement on the crappy rapid ones.

[Macca]

Machine stitched ?

You are dead to me joe

[Hi Im Joe]

Machine stitched ?

You are dead to me joe

LOL. The other one was machine stitched as well...

I am sorry to have let you down Macca. Now say if you were will to part with that sweet set of NOS Dixon pricking irons and one of the 59872383 vergez draw gauges you have I'd gladly devote hours and hours to the wonder of hand stitching?

[MonicaJacobson]

Joe, this one is so much better! In fact, I really don't see anything wrong with it. Awesome! I'll be interested to see your new design you talked about.

I think machine sewing is perfectly legitimate. In fact, as far as I can tell, it's harder than hand sewing. Faster, maybe, but finicky. My husband uses a CNC machine to automatize parts of his instrument building, and there are some people who think it's cheating, but machines cause as many problems as they solve. Or rather, people who sew with machines have to become skilled at it, just as you have to with handsewing. It's not really taking the easy way out.

[Hi Im Joe]

Thank you Monica! I've found that machine sewing has a fairly steep learning curve as well.

I think Macca likes messing with me. I'm just jealous I don't have all those sweet vintage top of the line hand tools he has collected over the years.

[MonicaJacobson]

I figured he was joking, but I've been thinking that about machine sewing this week, so I thought why not.

[Hi Im Joe]

Why not indeed! Machine sewing definitely opens up some great options. However it us not peaceful and relaxing and zen like the way hand sewing is.

[xyshannen]

Great Job Joe! You did really well with those rivets. Pounding out solid rivets is as much of an art form as anything else. The only thing I would have done differently would have been to put the head of the rivets facing the outside of the bag. I see how that would be difficult, but IMO would give a more finished look. But still...bravo man, bravo.

[Hi Im Joe]

Great Job Joe! You did really well with those rivets. Pounding out solid rivets is as much of an art form as anything else. The only thing I would have done differently would have been to put the head of the rivets facing the outside of the bag. I see how that would be difficult, but IMO would give a more finished look. But still...bravo man, bravo.

Man I went back and forth on this one. And actually it wouldn't have been any harder. I attached everything before I sewed the bag together. I guess I liked the more rustic look of having the rivet burr on the outside. Also I didn't want the user to reach in and scrap their hand on the burr.

[billybopp]

For my part, I think I like the burr showing on this bag, especially since Joe did such a good job making them look smooth and even. It just adds something visually interesting to the bag. Perhaps a different bag design with more happening visually would do better with the head out.

I wonder, does anybody know if the copper rivets will oxidize to green with time? If so, how would you prevent it? Also, has anybody tried "machine turning" or some other method to give these rivets an interesting texture?

Just some thoughts ...

Bill

[Hi Im Joe]

For my part, I think I like the burr showing on this bag, especially since Joe did such a good job making them look smooth and even. It just adds something visually interesting to the bag. Perhaps a different bag design with more happening visually would do better with the head out.

I wonder, does anybody know if the copper rivets will oxidize to green with time? If so, how would you prevent it? Also, has anybody tried "machine turning" or some other method to give these rivets an interesting texture?

Just some thoughts ...

Bill

Thanks Bill. I'm sure the rivets will darken down over time. As far as turning green that I'm not sure of.