Help Needed: Picking Cylinder Arm Walking Foot

[Blanket]

Hello everyone,

My first post ever. I am very new to leather crafting, so forgive me I do not speak mechanic language. I have decided to join this forums after reading Wizcrafts's The Type Of Sewing Machine You Need To Sew Leather I learnt a lot from it but I cannot make up my mind which machine that will be suitable for me.

Here is my situation:

• I am sewing leather bag, purse, clutch bags, tote bags etc, using 1-5oz leather with fabric so about 1/4" including the fabric lining for the body, about 3/8" max for straps/handle/thick joints
• I use veg tanned top grain leather (not sure if that makes any difference to picking a machine?)
• I am based in Ireland so I have very limited options/choices available to consider

I have decided a cylinder arm, walking foot with compound feed will be good for my needs, so I have ruled out any flat bed or post arm machines. I am seeking your advice/opinion on the following machines, one of which I will (hopefully) end up buying:

1. Durkopp Adler 669 - 180010 E3
2. Durkopp Adler 69 / 069 subclass unknown (Used) perhaps you can tell by this photo? It was listed with 6 months warranty.
3. Highlead GC2698-1BN
4. Highlead GC2268
5. Consew 277R-3
6. Juki TSC-441
7. Juki DSC-244 / DSC-245 / DSC-246 - I don't know what the differences between these three are?? They have the same info on seller's website
8. Juki LS-1341

Can you please let me know what you think about the above and based on my requirements and which would you prefer to go with if it was you?

And if not to much to ask, can you also help me with the following questions:

• what machine needle and thread size is suitable for stitching double layers of veg tanned 4-5oz leather straps/handle?
• what needle and thread size is best for single layer veg tanned 4-5oz with medium weight fabric?

I have been hand stitching and as much as I enjoy hand stitching I would love to get the basic putting the pieces together done quicker on a machine.

Many thanks in advance.

Edited October 6, 2014 by Blanket

[Tejas]

I am also in the process of evaluating cylinder bed machines for sewing leather. Although I'm not knowledgeable and just beginning the process, I think that key decisions including thread size ranges, leather thickness ranges, stitch lengths, ... are all important technical considerations, and then of course there is the price consideration.

Attached is the pdf version of a spreadsheet that you might use as a starting template and modify as appropraite to help make a decision. The data in the spreadsheet is from manufacturers' or dealers' specifications, but there might be transcription errors. The data is incomplete because it is not always easy to find. I've decided that my technical decision parameters should be within the manufacturer's specifications and not the claims of others.

BTW, apparently posting a spreadsheet is not allowed. Please send a PM if you want the xlsx version.

Cylinder Head.xlsx.pdf

[Blanket]

I am also in the process of evaluating cylinder bed machines for sewing leather. Although I'm not knowledgeable and just beginning the process, I think that key decisions including thread size ranges, leather thickness ranges, stitch lengths, ... are all important technical considerations, and then of course there is the price consideration.

Attached is the pdf version of a spreadsheet that you might use as a starting template and modify as appropraite to help make a decision. The data in the spreadsheet is from manufacturers' or dealers' specifications, but there might be transcription errors. The data is incomplete because it is not always easy to find. I've decided that my technical decision parameters should be within the manufacturer's specifications and not the claims of others.

BTW, apparently posting a spreadsheet is not allowed. Please send a PM if you want the xlsx version.

Hi Tejas, your spreadsheet is brilliant! Thank you so much.

I think I do need to do the same. I managed to copy your checklist without a problem so I have my spreadsheet now. I have seen this term 'Foot raise', but I never knew what it means and difference it can make, can you help?

[Tejas]

By foot raise, the spreadsheet lists two methods of raising the foot to insert material for sewing -- by hand or typically by a lever on the the back of the machine or by knee (or by a pedal). By knee or by pedal is higher than by hand and more convenient I think.

Edited October 6, 2014 by Tejas

[Blanket]

Hi Tejas, many thanks for this.

[Techsew Ron]

I am also in the process of evaluating cylinder bed machines for sewing leather. Although I'm not knowledgeable and just beginning the process, I think that key decisions including thread size ranges, leather thickness ranges, stitch lengths, ... are all important technical considerations, and then of course there is the price consideration.

Attached is the pdf version of a spreadsheet that you might use as a starting template and modify as appropraite to help make a decision. The data in the spreadsheet is from manufacturers' or dealers' specifications, but there might be transcription errors. The data is incomplete because it is not always easy to find. I've decided that my technical decision parameters should be within the manufacturer's specifications and not the claims of others.

BTW, apparently posting a spreadsheet is not allowed. Please send a PM if you want the xlsx version.

Solid information here.

Just a minor correction - Techsew 2700 is a clone of Consew 227-R, not Pfaff 335.

Ron

[Spinner]

Some additional/real life info on the Techsew 2700...I'm a happy owner/user, not employee or paid.

Sewing Capacity: 3/8' or 9.5mm maximum. You can fit more in there but it really doesn't like it.

Foot Lift: Lever, 1/2"

Bobbin Winder: standard, integrates inline with belt.

Cylinder length: 270mm, clearance 225mm, diameter: 65mm

Lubrication: manual

Presser Feet: Singer 111

I can confirm it will run 207/210 thread using the correct size bladed leather needles.

The attached pic is of a recent stitch it ran 138/92 t/b thread using a Tri-Point needle through 13-14 ounces of veg & chrome tanned stacked (center island) . It runs nice & true and controls easily with a servo motor.

Edited October 8, 2014 by Spinner

[Constabulary]

No matter what brand, class or subclass of sewing machine you will choose I´d always look for which machine you can get the widest range accessories and attachments. And that will always be a machine that takes the Singer 111 type foot. I´d personally choose the Consew 227R3 or Juki LS-1341.

BUT with the Juki 441 you will be on the safe side and this one can sew everything and you still have potential if you have to sew something heavier than the above mentioned.

If you wan to safe some $$$ I´d choose one of the Juki 441 Clones for example from Toledo Sewing the Cowboy machines. They also have a 227 type machine.

http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cowboy.html

Or one of the other dealers who have banners on top of this page.

Edited October 8, 2014 by Constabulary

[Constabulary]

I should read more careful - I just noticed you are from Ireland. I don´t know many Sewing machine Co´s in the UK or Ireland but maybe the continent is an option for you. I recently noticed that Juki 441 clones are available from Germany as well.

http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/sewing/saddlery-machines/

[Blanket]

Hi Techsew Ron, Spinner and Constabulary, thank you all for this. Too bad there are no Techsew nor Cowboy machines that I can find around here (Ron, have you got a UK dealer?) but it may be that I haven't looked deep enough.. Will keep looking.