New Machine So Elementry Questions Thread

[cleanview]

1. I know I have to back stitch to lock it in at the end, but do I have to do it at the beginning as well?

[cleanview]

Well, the wife answered that one. So , next one,,,,

Are there tricks to making the backstiching look better, its just kind of rough looking.

Over all, this CB3200 that I got is starting out easier than I thought it might be. Not sure how much practice to do before I put it to work on a project.

[zuludog]

Yes, you should back stitch at the start & finish of a line of sewing

For a neat back stitch, leave or pull out longer lengths of thread at the start & end of a line of stitching than you usually leave for machine sewing. Then use these lengths to back stitch (presumably saddle stitch) by hand

For a neater finish still, go forwards by hand from the ends of the machine stitch by a couple of holes before turning back

It obviously takes a bit longer, but it's neat and probably more secure. You usually only have to go back 3 or 4 holes anyway

Edited November 13, 2014 by zuludog

[Northmount]

Leather point needles may cut your thread on a machine back-stitch. So if you are using leather points, the best would be to do them by hand like zuludog says.

Tom

[Colt W Knight]

Leather point needles may cut your thread on a machine back-stitch. So if you are using leather points, the best would be to do them by hand like zuludog says.

Tom

I have this problem, so now I just leave long ends and saddle stitch with a harness needle.

[Wizcrafts]

You can do the Poor Man's Reverse. Start about 3 stitches forward of where your first stitch will be. Hold the threads taut. Bury the needle. Lift the feet enough to move the leather. Spin the work 180 degrees, sew three stitches. Spin the work 180 and sew through and past the first stitch, holding the threads taut. Let go of the thread. Repeat the reversal at the end, backtacking 3 stitches with the leather reversed.

The above is how I sew on my industrial machines that don't have reverse.

There is another way to lock the starting and ending stitches that doesn't require any reversing at all. It was told to me by elves from Narnia.

This system works best on machines like big 441 type stitchers with a single lever for forward, reverse and stitch length. Set the stitch lever to the zero length position. You can learn where it actually is and mark the stitch length plate with a Magic Marker (again, from Narnia). At the zero position, sew three stitches into the same hole. Stop with the needle up. lower the lever for your desired forward stitch length and sew to the end. When you sew the final stitch, but before the needle moves forward, zero the lever and sew two more times into that hole. Voila: locked starting and ending stitches!

Edited November 22, 2014 by Wizcrafts

[TwinOaks]

Wiz, that's cheating!!!!

[TinkerTailor]

You can do the Poor Man's Reverse. Start about 3 stitches forward of where your first stitch will be. Hold the threads taut. Bury the needle. Lift the feet enough to move the leather. Spin the work 180 degrees, sew three stitches. Spin the work 180 and sew through and past the first stitch, holding the threads taut. Let go of the thread. Repeat the reversal at the end, backtacking 3 stitches with the leather reversed.

The above is how I sew on my industrial machines that don't have reverse.

There is another way to lock the starting and ending stitches that doesn't require any reversing at all. It was told to me by elves from Narnia.

This system works best on machines like big 441 type stitchers with a single lever for forward, reverse and stitch length. Set the stitch lever to the zero length position. You can learn where it actually is and mark the stitch length plate with a Magic Marker (again, from Narnia). At the zero position, sew three stitches into the same hole. Stop with the needle up. lower the lever for your desired forward stitch length and sew to the end. When you sew the final stitch, but before the needle moves forward, zero the lever and sew two more times into that hole. Voila: locked starting and ending stitches!

Just found this thread, and never thought to use this trick on a leather machine, although i use it day in and day out when i am working with canvas on my old no reverse treadle machines.......It was in an old white rotary manual. Is this the narnia you speak of? The world of black japanned cast iron and gilt logos?

[Wizcrafts]

Just found this thread, and never thought to use this trick on a leather machine, although i use it day in and day out when i am working with canvas on my old no reverse treadle machines.......It was in an old white rotary manual. Is this the narnia you speak of? The world of black japanned cast iron and gilt logos?

Yes, I use sewing machines from Narnia. I just finished refurbishing a 1926 Singer 42-5 (with a gold tag and Singer decals and chipping 1/16" thick J-pan paint). It joins a slew of other machines in my shop.

[TinkerTailor]

Yes, I use sewing machines from Narnia. I just finished refurbishing a 1926 Singer 42-5 (with a gold tag and Singer decals and chipping 1/16" thick J-pan paint). It joins a slew of other machines in my shop.

I am seriously considering painting my 5100 black. It would fit into my shop much better. I have a buddy who pinstripes.......