Resolene Problem.

[Mel99]

I really think the problems I am having with resolene and tan kote (they are both lifting the color off of my leather as well as the specks problem) has a lot to do with the fact that I’m in California and I have no choice but to use water based dyes and paints. Yesterday my paint  (angelus) lifted off of the belt I am making as I rubbed on the antique after having sprayed resolene down as a blocker. I’ve also re-done a wallet twice as both times either tan kote or resolene has removed my paint from the leather. 
Does anyone else in California have these issues or a answer as to how I can keep this from happening?

[BDAZ]

I sometimes use water based dyes and always do a final seal with resolene. After dying remove as much excess dye as possible. I DON'T dilute the Resolene but apply with a cellulose sponge that has been thoroughly rinsed in water then squeezed but sell somewhat wet. Her in AZ where humidity in my workshop is 10% I have to work fast but even  if there are small bubbles, they disappear and I am left with a perfect finish. You will remove a percentage of the dye when applying the resolene. In addition I usually oil the project prior to dying as most of my items are wet formed.

Another possibility is that your resolene went South. I did have a batch that spoiled and cracked and peeled on areas that were subject to flexing.

The belt was a quick project for a friend but it has 2 Ecoflow dye, neatsfoot and 2 coats of resolene.

 

[Mel99]

I thought maybe it was my tan kote going south as it too pulls the stain and my acrylic paint off of my projects, soon switched to resolene. But it to removes my stain and paint. 
 It’s just so frustrating when you work so hard on something, only to have it ruined by the top coats.

 When I used a sponge to apply either the tan kote or the resolene my project went very much south! The paint and stain lifted and the bubbles never went away. 
I guess I will order some new tan kote and some new resolene. Maybe they both got frozen in the shipping process.

[BDAZ]

Use either resolene or tan kote. Be aware that what you have after dying and after final finish will never be the same, even with oil dyes. You can see the color difference between the celtic knot embossing and background, solely a result of the resolene application.

 

Bob

[Mel99]

Yes I don’t use tan kote and resolene together but I have used them both on separate projects with the same results. 
I have ordered new tan kote and new resolene. 
Maybe  im expecting  to much! Here is a picture of what it’s doing to my project. 
I sprayed the resolene in both of these and still got lift.

[Dwight]

Just for kicks and giggles, . . . it'll cost you a couple hours work, . . . and ten bucks.

Go to the grocery and buy a bottle of Mop and Glow, . . . it's a floor finish product, . . . also acrylic, . . . also water  based.

Used to be a super guy on here went by the handle of Katsass, . . . search him out, . . . Mop and Glow is all he used, . . . and his holsters turned out beautiful.

Using it, . . . you cut it 50 / 50 with water and simply dip it in the solution, . . . hold it a few seconds, . . . pull it out, . . . shake off the excess, . . . hang up to dry.

He swore by it, . . . and I never heard that he swore at it.

It would be worth a try in my book.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Mel99]

Hell its worth a try that’s for sure. I will do it today! 

[BDAZ]

I also use mop and glo great in the kitchen too!

What do you mean by lift? It's not sticking to the paint or the paint is lifting?

[Mel99]

The paint and the stain is lifting! The more I wipe with the resolene or Tan Kote  the more paint and stain come up. I’ve even sprayed resolene and as soon as I hit the dried resolene with antique, off come the paint and stain.
im waiting 24hrs before I apply a finish and I buff it before I apply the finish. 

[BDAZ]

The problem is the paint! Go to your local hobby shop and buy their acrylic paint. Works better than "leather paint" and available in a myriad of colors and finishes and inexpensive. I use a lot of silver and gold metallic..

[Mel99]

I’m using angelus acrylic paint. And this happens with the stain as well.

 What are you using for paint and finish?

Edited January 25, 2020 by Mel99
Adding a question

[RockyAussie]

I don't know if this will help but just in case it does.....many years back in my business I recoloured shoes as part of the service and some leathers and in particular oil tanned leathers were next to impossible to colour. Any oils including oils from your hands can migrate out of the leather and blemish and sometimes soften the paint finish. Angelus and most shoe acrylic paint suppliers also have a preparer solution to help remove any oils and I think with tooling veg tan, a clean up with oxalic acid is a part of the normal procedure to do before any dying is undertaken. I mention this only in case this part of the process has been missed or forgotten and because I find it hard to believe that both the resolene and the Tan Kote could be both faulty and causing the same issue. Use surgical gloves to stop any contamination when handling the leather once it has been cleaned up.

[Mel99]

Ok great idea I will do that in the morning before I carve my next piece. Also I got some angelus deglasser today.

ok now into the mop and glow vs resolene 

can you tell which piece I did with the mop and glow and which one the resolene?

I stained them both with full strength black stain eco flow. Then let them dry. Then i buffed both swatches. Now the  Funny thing is , I usually dilute my stain but not this time. Usually I get some stain off of my leather when I buff. But this time I didn’t.  Then I  painted three coats of angelus paint on each one. Being sure to let each coat dry. The next day I dipped one in mop and glow and the other I applied resolene with a sponge. Everything was great in both swatches, I got NO stain lift at all! Then I applied tandys antique, whipped it off and  that’s when I noticed the swatch with the resolene  paint Lifting. The paint on the mop and glow side didn’t budge. 
I think I might be a mop and glow convert! 

[Dwight]

Glad you found a fix, . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

[FirebrandPaul]

I just wanted to give my process, cause the more the merrier right?!  I ONLY use oil and ETOH based dyes. After drying I buff our the piece until nothing comes off onto my cotton rag.  Then I hand rub in Neatsfoot oil thoroughly, let dry for a day (sometimes a little less). Wipe down again until it looks polished.  (I have also gotten into the habit of always having nitrile gloves on when dyeing) Next I use airbrush set up with 70/30 tap water to Resoline mix. I make approximately 1 pint at a time and keep it in a glass jar that has a glass lid w/rubber gasket and a wire type clasp that keeps it sealed when not being used.  EVERYTIME I go to pour more I stir prior to filling my airbrush cup with a strainer.  Spray several light coats (not too light) and make sure they are completely dry prior to spraying the next coat. Finally once COMPLETELY dry I buff with a new shoeshine MIT and the finish is flawless!  I also use Angelus paints and have NEVER had the Resoline lift it off.

Hope this helps someone in need

Be safe out there

Paul

[EBoston]

Hello - first time leather-dyer here. I'm planning to refinish a pair of leather boots, deglazing and staining w/ Fiebings dye. I'm considering using Resolene to seal them, but I'm wondering about conditioning down the road. I live in New England and between snow and road salt my shoes take a beating. If I cover the boots in Resolene, will I be able to condition the leather w/ a cream down the road? Or will the Resolene effectively seal in any moisture so that the leather won't dry out over time? THANK YOU!