Members BDAZ Posted July 12, 2018 Members Report Posted July 12, 2018 I seal ALL dyed leather, and I only use alcohol based dyes. Resolene is my sealer of choice, one or two coats, but there are many to select from. Resolene, like all acrylic paints and finishes polymerizes as it dries and forms a plastic finish over the dyed leather. There will always be some excess be some pigment or dye left on the surface which will rub off, possibly on clothing or furniture, so sealing is a good idea. Bob Quote
Members axmay Posted December 13, 2019 Members Report Posted December 13, 2019 Water is a solvent. Just because plastic doesn't dissolve in water means nothing. Liquid CO2 is a solvent and it won't dissolve plastic. The properties of the solvent and its target are both relative. There are compatibility issues and incompatibility issues that's all. Quote
RockyAussie Posted December 13, 2019 Report Posted December 13, 2019 14 minutes ago, axmay said: Water is a solvent Dammm....I been drinkin that stuff.......I knew it wasn't the beer Quote Wild Harry - Australian made leather goodsYouTube Channel Instagram
Members Mel99 Posted January 24, 2020 Members Report Posted January 24, 2020 I’ve been having the same issues with resolene so I’ve tried spraying it. Mixed it 50/50 water sprayed it on and now it looks speckled. I can actually feel the resolene as I run my finger over the belt. Did I not put enough on the belt or to much? Quote
Members Dwight Posted January 24, 2020 Members Report Posted January 24, 2020 I've been using Resolene for about 14 years, . . . NEVER had but one problem with it, . . . a couple times I put on too many coats. Other than that, . . . as Paco Pedro used to say, . . . "No Problemo". I first mix it 1 to 1 with tap water, . . . shake it up every time I use it, . . . keep it in a Skippy peanut butter jar with the lid tightly closed. Second, . . . ALWAYS rub whatever you are doing to get any loose pigment off it, . . . I like paper towels, . . . old cut up tee shirts, . . . old cut up PJ's. Third, . . . I use a cheap, . . . Harbor Freight 50 cent bristle brush, . . . about an inch wide, . . . start brushing it on left and right so it gets a good liquid coat on my project, . . . continue brushing left / right / up / down / oblique angles, . . . making sure I had enough product to get a little "froth" of bubbles all over the project. Once that is achieved, . . . continue brushing until all the bubbles disappear. Hang up to dry, . . . if it is a product that will flex, . . . come back in about 20 minutes and flex it gently. Otherwise, . . . it is ready to use in 12 hours or so in 70 degree atmosphere. NEVER had any real issues with anything other than that mentioned above. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members Mel99 Posted January 25, 2020 Members Report Posted January 25, 2020 I really think the problems I am having with resolene and tan kote (they are both lifting the color off of my leather as well as the specks problem) has a lot to do with the fact that I’m in California and I have no choice but to use water based dyes and paints. Yesterday my paint (angelus) lifted off of the belt I am making as I rubbed on the antique after having sprayed resolene down as a blocker. I’ve also re-done a wallet twice as both times either tan kote or resolene has removed my paint from the leather. Does anyone else in California have these issues or a answer as to how I can keep this from happening? Quote
Members BDAZ Posted January 25, 2020 Members Report Posted January 25, 2020 I sometimes use water based dyes and always do a final seal with resolene. After dying remove as much excess dye as possible. I DON'T dilute the Resolene but apply with a cellulose sponge that has been thoroughly rinsed in water then squeezed but sell somewhat wet. Her in AZ where humidity in my workshop is 10% I have to work fast but even if there are small bubbles, they disappear and I am left with a perfect finish. You will remove a percentage of the dye when applying the resolene. In addition I usually oil the project prior to dying as most of my items are wet formed. Another possibility is that your resolene went South. I did have a batch that spoiled and cracked and peeled on areas that were subject to flexing. The belt was a quick project for a friend but it has 2 Ecoflow dye, neatsfoot and 2 coats of resolene. Quote
Members Mel99 Posted January 25, 2020 Members Report Posted January 25, 2020 I thought maybe it was my tan kote going south as it too pulls the stain and my acrylic paint off of my projects, soon switched to resolene. But it to removes my stain and paint. It’s just so frustrating when you work so hard on something, only to have it ruined by the top coats. When I used a sponge to apply either the tan kote or the resolene my project went very much south! The paint and stain lifted and the bubbles never went away. I guess I will order some new tan kote and some new resolene. Maybe they both got frozen in the shipping process. Quote
Members BDAZ Posted January 25, 2020 Members Report Posted January 25, 2020 Use either resolene or tan kote. Be aware that what you have after dying and after final finish will never be the same, even with oil dyes. You can see the color difference between the celtic knot embossing and background, solely a result of the resolene application. Bob Quote
Members Mel99 Posted January 25, 2020 Members Report Posted January 25, 2020 Yes I don’t use tan kote and resolene together but I have used them both on separate projects with the same results. I have ordered new tan kote and new resolene. Maybe im expecting to much! Here is a picture of what it’s doing to my project. I sprayed the resolene in both of these and still got lift. Quote
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