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Posted

How thick is the cow? Above about 6 oz leather, I don't stick it to anything to tool - isn't necessary. But then, my leather has never been in the fridge, far as I can remember :)

Minus the fancy speeches, leather should be cased if you're embossing up a good distance. For "flat" articles (tooled in only) you can wet and go. This simple design was done the other day in a few hours.... from cutting the strip off the hide to setting aside to dry (paint 'n' stitchin' extra)...

post-13153-0-81141900-1423767257_thumb.j

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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Posted

I generally work with from hides that are anywhere from 6-9 oz. The only reason i have gotten in a habit of using contact paper behind each project, i was tooling a planner book and had used contact to that point. It wasn't until i was nearly finished tooling, that i realized my hide had stretched more than i could fix. Ultimately i had to pitch the project and start over. So, i just decided after learning about contact paper, that i would use that to ensure i wasn't going to be having that issue again. Hides are too expensive for stupid mistakes

Posted

I think what I see is trouble with following the cut with the beveler. It could be how you are holding the beveler, or it could be that your swivel knife is undercutting on curves. Keep your knife blade perpendicular to the leather.

Tom

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Posted

I've been thoroughly wetting the leather on both sides, letting it dry out a bit, casing it in the 'fridge overnight, then letting it air dry almost to natural color. By that time, as long as your project isn't gigantic, you can put tape on the back side.

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