DS STRAPS Report post Posted February 14, 2015 So when cutting leather by hand using a pattern that has been traced out, is it expected for the cut out not to completely match the pattern? I am currently working on the my first project using a pattern I made and notice that the cut out did not come out exactly as the pattern, slightly larger and a little out of position after cutting. Is there an exact science when cutting out a pattern or is all the precision done at the end with sanding and burnishing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tboyce Report post Posted February 14, 2015 I've never been able to make them exact. Sanding is like ketchup, it covereth a multitude of sins Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DS STRAPS Report post Posted February 14, 2015 I've never been able to make them exact. Sanding is like ketchup, it covereth a multitude of sins LMAO...thanks! I have been afraid of patterns for the fact of perfection but I guess that's one demon that will be cured...lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dragonhawke Report post Posted February 14, 2015 Good one Tom! LMFAO Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NVLeatherWorx Report post Posted February 14, 2015 It isn't uncommon for the cut out to be slightly larger than the pattern template. You can correct this (if you have the patience to do so) by making your cutting template a micro cut smaller (not even enough to truly give you a measurement to work with) or just go with what you get as it isn't really too much larger at all. Another thing to consider is that during any tooling/stamping or even when dyeing/finishing, you will most likely end up getting a little leather shrinkage (again, not enough to truly measure unless the leather is over saturated or force dried) that will bring it back to about what you are expecting to get anyway. I always make my templates to the dimensions that I want as finished and when all is said and done the end product is pretty much bang on anyway. Don't sweat this one, it ain't nuttin to lose sleep over. Have fun with it and by the way, them's be some nice watchbands. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Report post Posted February 21, 2015 From experience I learned that if the tracing on the leather is not exactly the same shape and size of the pattern template then something is going wrong. Most often the pattern is moved during the tracing process. A simple fix to this is to use Push Pins and insert them into existing holes that will be punched for stitches, rivets, or snaps. Then trace the pattern with a scratch awl right along the edge of the pattern. This works for small to large patterns. My personal choice for cutting is a utility knife because it gives me control and a good smooth cut so I don't have to use a belt sander to trim it up. See the photos. Hope this helps. Jim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DebHop Report post Posted February 22, 2015 As a more experienced seamstress than leather crafter, but same concepts apply when it comes to getting a good size and fit -- this is what I have observed and learned: Some folks cut outside the line, others cut inside the line; but to keep size and dimensions 'true', cutting on-the-line gives the most accurate results. I also totally agree with Jim to anchor the pattern wherever you can to eliminate movement while cutting. Just my 2 cents. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redochre Report post Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) When you draw around a pattern your lines are already laying outside the dimensions you want. As mentioned above you can counteract this by making the template 1mm smaller than needed or you can not use a template and draw straight on to the leather.(this isn't viable in a production setting) Also mentioned above the correct way to cut a line is to disect it. For example if you mark out with a pen then there should be ink on both sides of the cut. Its also the accepted rule that you always cut with the waste side showing. Ultimately though leather is organic, it moves. If you're not pressing hard enough on the rule then leather will distort. Edited February 27, 2015 by Redochre Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tramps Leatherworking Report post Posted February 27, 2015 This is why I use a properly sharpened head knife for most cutting, it eliminates most of the pull on the leather that can create a lot of head scratching when the cutting is finished... I also use a Jeremiah Watt single bevel straight knife so I can hold the flat part of the blade right against the straight edge. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
exoticleather Report post Posted February 27, 2015 (edited) I usually make my patterns on a computer, then print them out, glue them on cardboard and then laminate the underside of the cardboard with a clear plastic laminate sheet, and cut them out. I then spread a thin layer of leather glue on the laminate side of the pattern using a canvas covered squeeze bottle. (a bit of canvas over the mouth of the bottle and rubber banded in place around the throat of the bottle. (make sure to cap the bottle after every use or the canvas becomes clogged) When tacky, I stick the pattern to the grain side of the leather I am cutting, cut out the pattern, then pull the pattern off. This helps keep the pattern in place while cutting. When I finished cutting, I remove the pattern from the leather. I then use baby powder applied to the laminate side of the pattern to neutralize the stickiness on the pattern, and place the pattern in a plastic sleeve, which allows me to use it again later. I've learned the hard way though that the glue must be a very thin coat and you must wait until it is tacky before sticking it to the leather. Othewise you will leave glue clumps on the leather surface which can sometimes be a bear to remove. Edited February 27, 2015 by exoticleather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rickmoo Report post Posted February 28, 2015 I make patterns from poster board. i use a long metal and short rules for straight lines. i have several templates with ovals and circles for curved parts of patterns... if you have a table saw or band saw, transfer the patterns to either cast acrylic (plexiglass) or 1/4" birch or luann plywood. this will give you permanent patterns and you can hold them in place to cut around... draw or scribe around the template 1st in case it moves while cutting so you can reposition it. also a good investment is a Ridgid table sander that has the belt and oscillating cylindrical attachments. that way you can shape inside curves. i also use them to thin or skive thick leather if needed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted February 28, 2015 (edited) I make my patterns usually out of file folders (thank you John Bianchi), . . . and some of them I have transferred to the material Tandy sells and calls bag stiffener. It is a lot stiffer, . . . and holds up really well to a heavy fisted old coot like myself. I gave up a long time ago on scribing, or using a pencil, . . . I get out the ball point pen, . . . outline my pattern, . . . then I don't have to go searching for where my wife put my reading glasses, . . . or wonder if the cat grabbed em. By the time I put the pattern back in the file and step back over to the table, . . . the ink is dry and I can both cut and see what I'm cutting. The really neat thing about ball point ink is you get a good line, . . . not too wide, . . . not too narrow, . . . and you can see the doggoned thing. Oh, . . . and a side benefit of using a ball point, . . . you will learn after only a couple of mistakes, . . . make sure that you want THIS piece cut out of THIS leather. You will suddenly begin to make really good decisions in that department. Enjoy,.............. May God bless, Dwight Edited February 28, 2015 by Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lws380 Report post Posted February 28, 2015 I use drawing pencils to trace patterns and general use on leather. I get them at Hobby Lobby. They come in various softness but I use the 5b. Much easier to see than a regular pencil and you can still erase if needed. Not a fan of ink on leather. http://shop.hobbylobby.com/products/general-pencil-kimberly-drawing-pencil-5b-364521/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mojave Report post Posted March 2, 2015 Hi, from the Upper Mojave, I'm new to leatherworking and mostly reading the posts to get a little understanding of the craft. I have brought some tools, stamps (BK starter set), and leather. My goal is to learn, keep my hands working, and have fun. Being retired, I am getting close in getting the wife's (honey do) list completed, but will never finish. When I get 3 list, I throw the first 2 list away. LOL This is a hobby like trout fishing, camping shooting my M1 Garand with my buddies. I have a lot of questions, but will only ask them when/if the time arises. This is the question: I would like to know how to layout the stitch line on the patterns as shown in the pictures in Jim's post? Also, what tool do you use for spacing the stitch holes? I would like to make my mistakes on paper. God Speed, Howard Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DS STRAPS Report post Posted March 6, 2015 Hi, from the Upper Mojave, I'm new to leatherworking and mostly reading the posts to get a little understanding of the craft. I have brought some tools, stamps (BK starter set), and leather. My goal is to learn, keep my hands working, and have fun. Being retired, I am getting close in getting the wife's (honey do) list completed, but will never finish. When I get 3 list, I throw the first 2 list away. LOL This is a hobby like trout fishing, camping shooting my M1 Garand with my buddies. I have a lot of questions, but will only ask them when/if the time arises. This is the question: I would like to know how to layout the stitch line on the patterns as shown in the pictures in Jim's post? Also, what tool do you use for spacing the stitch holes? I would like to make my mistakes on paper. God Speed, Howard I use a divider to trace out the desired distance from the edge and then use a chisel to punch holes, you could also use a stitching wheel along line to get hole spacing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mojave Report post Posted March 6, 2015 DS STRAPS, Thank you, I'am going to try layout the holes tonight. This afternoon I have a basketball game after the kids on the block when they get out of school. Its me VS 3 -8 year old boys. I am 70 years old, the kids are great and keep me active. They won't let me just sit around. They come to the door and ask my wife if pop's can come out and play. To get me from under foot, she says yes, but only for 3 or 4 hours. Oh, I always let them win. LOL Thanks again, Howard God speed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites