Pattern Cut Out Question?

[DS STRAPS]

So when cutting leather by hand using a pattern that has been traced out, is it expected for the cut out not to completely match the pattern?

I am currently working on the my first project using a pattern I made and notice that the cut out did not come out exactly as the pattern, slightly larger and a little out of position after cutting.

Is there an exact science when cutting out a pattern or is all the precision done at the end with sanding and burnishing?

[tboyce]

I've never been able to make them exact. Sanding is like ketchup, it covereth a multitude of sins

[DS STRAPS]

I've never been able to make them exact. Sanding is like ketchup, it covereth a multitude of sins

LMAO...thanks! I have been afraid of patterns for the fact of perfection but I guess that's one demon that will be cured...lol

[dragonhawke]

Good one Tom! LMFAO

[NVLeatherWorx]

It isn't uncommon for the cut out to be slightly larger than the pattern template. You can correct this (if you have the patience to do so) by making your cutting template a micro cut smaller (not even enough to truly give you a measurement to work with) or just go with what you get as it isn't really too much larger at all. Another thing to consider is that during any tooling/stamping or even when dyeing/finishing, you will most likely end up getting a little leather shrinkage (again, not enough to truly measure unless the leather is over saturated or force dried) that will bring it back to about what you are expecting to get anyway. I always make my templates to the dimensions that I want as finished and when all is said and done the end product is pretty much bang on anyway.

Don't sweat this one, it ain't nuttin to lose sleep over.

Have fun with it and by the way, them's be some nice watchbands.

[Jim]

From experience I learned that if the tracing on the leather is not exactly the same shape and size of the pattern template then something is going wrong. Most often the pattern is moved during the tracing process.

A simple fix to this is to use Push Pins and insert them into existing holes that will be punched for stitches, rivets, or snaps. Then trace the pattern with a scratch awl right along the edge of the pattern. This works for small to large patterns.

My personal choice for cutting is a utility knife because it gives me control and a good smooth cut so I don't have to use a belt sander to trim it up.

See the photos.

Hope this helps.

Jim

[DebHop]

As a more experienced seamstress than leather crafter, but same concepts apply when it comes to getting a good size and fit -- this is what I have observed and learned:

Some folks cut outside the line, others cut inside the line; but to keep size and dimensions 'true',

cutting on-the-line gives the most accurate results.

I also totally agree with Jim to anchor the pattern wherever you can to eliminate movement while cutting.

Just my 2 cents.

[Redochre]

When you draw around a pattern your lines are already laying outside the dimensions you want.

As mentioned above you can counteract this by making the template 1mm smaller than needed or you can not use a template and draw straight on to the leather.(this isn't viable in a production setting)

Also mentioned above the correct way to cut a line is to disect it. For example if you mark out with a pen then there should be ink on both sides of the cut. Its also the accepted rule that you always cut with the waste side showing.

Ultimately though leather is organic, it moves. If you're not pressing hard enough on the rule then leather will distort.

Edited February 27, 2015 by Redochre

[Tramps Leatherworking]

This is why I use a properly sharpened head knife for most cutting, it eliminates most of the pull on the leather that can create a lot of head scratching when the cutting is finished... I also use a Jeremiah Watt single bevel straight knife so I can hold the flat part of the blade right against the straight edge.

[exoticleather]

I usually make my patterns on a computer, then print them out, glue them on cardboard and then laminate the underside of the cardboard with a clear plastic laminate sheet, and cut them out. I then spread a thin layer of leather glue on the laminate side of the pattern using a canvas covered squeeze bottle. (a bit of canvas over the mouth of the bottle and rubber banded in place around the throat of the bottle. (make sure to cap the bottle after every use or the canvas becomes clogged) When tacky, I stick the pattern to the grain side of the leather I am cutting, cut out the pattern, then pull the pattern off. This helps keep the pattern in place while cutting.

When I finished cutting, I remove the pattern from the leather. I then use baby powder applied to the laminate side of the pattern to neutralize the stickiness on the pattern, and place the pattern in a plastic sleeve, which allows me to use it again later.

I've learned the hard way though that the glue must be a very thin coat and you must wait until it is tacky before sticking it to the leather. Othewise you will leave glue clumps on the leather surface which can sometimes be a bear to remove.

Edited February 27, 2015 by exoticleather