Finishing Veg Tan Leather

[Reindeer]

What is the easiest way to finish a tooled piece of veg tanned leather, like for example a belt?

Not talking about the edges, I think I understand that already.

I mean, the dying/coloring/conditioning/sealing part.

I have seen several explanations written out but they all kinda confuse me. I would just like the simplest way to do it.

I am not interested in acrylic paints.

What I want is a very natural look, just want to darken the leather and maybe have a very mild sheen to it.

So how do I do that, and also protect it from warping and the elements and stuff like that? and do it in the most simple and inexpensive way?

[MonicaJacobson]

Oh dear, there are so many options.

You could darken it in the sun, and apply diluted (50% with water) resolene... or mop-n-glow. I've never used the mop-n-glow, but a lot of people say it's like resolene. Just a few light coats with 12 hour periods inbetween.

Or you could buy a light brown dye, and seal that with supersheen, saddle lac, resolene, or mop-n-glow.

If you want a more matte look, Aussie Leather Conditioner is nice. It doesn't protect it as much and requires more upkeep, but it feels really nice and less plastic-y.

[Reindeer]

Oh dear, there are so many options.

You could darken it in the sun, and apply diluted (50% with water) resolene... or mop-n-glow. I've never used the mop-n-glow, but a lot of people say it's like resolene. Just a few light coats with 12 hour periods inbetween.

Or you could buy a light brown dye, and seal that with supersheen, saddle lac, resolene, or mop-n-glow.

Thanks. What is the difference between a dye and a stain, by the way, are they the same thing?

If you want a more matte look, Aussie Leather Conditioner is nice. It doesn't protect it as much and requires more upkeep, but it feels really nice and less plastic-y.

What about Lexol leather conditioner?

Thanks for your reply.

[MonicaJacobson]

Stain usually refers to something you'd use on wood, and depending on the marketing, is either a dye or else a dye suspended in a finishing agent. Or even just paint.

Dye is spirit based (at least, the better ones like fiebings), and offers absolutely no protection. Now antiquing is a little different. The antiquing I have is water based, but I haven't looked into it much and don't know if other brands are spirit based.

People use antiquing to darken the leather. But you also have to seal after you use the antiquing.

I think Lexol works okay on furniture (I have some myself), but for a real conditioner on a leather belt, it's better to use neatsfoot or Aussie. I don't think Lexol offers much, if any, protection.

[Windrider30]

Well if you want to go for the natural but a little darker color for the belt what I do is put a little super shen on the belt (leaving the belt natural) normally just a coat maybe two max, then I use the aussie conditioner on it. Now I have found that the aussie conditioner will actually darken the color of the leather just a little bit which I do like a lot. But as Monica says you do need to do a bit more upkeep on the aussie condisinter, now I have heard that you can use something called corbasol not even sure if that is how you spell it but its basically a top coat but it will darken any stains or dyes you use by almost one color or so I have heard never used the stuff myself.

[Reindeer]

Stain usually refers to something you'd use on wood, and depending on the marketing, is either a dye or else a dye suspended in a finishing agent. Or even just paint.

Dye is spirit based (at least, the better ones like fiebings), and offers absolutely no protection. Now antiquing is a little different. The antiquing I have is water based, but I haven't looked into it much and don't know if other brands are spirit based.

People use antiquing to darken the leather. But you also have to seal after you use the antiquing.

I think Lexol works okay on furniture (I have some myself), but for a real conditioner on a leather belt, it's better to use neatsfoot or Aussie. I don't think Lexol offers much, if any, protection.

Ok thanks. Makes sense.

However, what is the purpose of using Aussie (or any brand) conditioner, if it offers no protection? What does it do exactly? I know "conditioner" should speak for itself...but...I actually don't know what it means.

[Reindeer]

Well if you want to go for the natural but a little darker color for the belt what I do is put a little super shen on the belt (leaving the belt natural) normally just a coat maybe two max, then I use the aussie conditioner on it. Now I have found that the aussie conditioner will actually darken the color of the leather just a little bit which I do like a lot. But as Monica says you do need to do a bit more upkeep on the aussie condisinter, now I have heard that you can use something called corbasol not even sure if that is how you spell it but its basically a top coat but it will darken any stains or dyes you use by almost one color or so I have heard never used the stuff myself.

Ok thanks. It seems that conditioner is only recommended for pieces that aren't dyed, is that correct? Can you use conditioner on a dyed project, or will it make the dye get runny or something?

[MonicaJacobson]

I think if you dye something you want to seal it to keep the dye from running. So yes, you're correct. If it's not dyed, you can do what you want. You could leave it unprotected entirely. It wouldn't like it much, but you could. The aussie has beeswax in it, so it's a light protection.

[thekid77]

If you are willing to take 40 minutes and watch this video, I think it will help you make a decision regarding the commonly used finished out on the market today....after watching it, I have used acrylic resolene diluted 50% with water and haven't looked back....I used it whether I am dyeing my projects or just leaving them natural....hope it helps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM

[Reindeer]

If you are willing to take 40 minutes and watch this video, I think it will help you make a decision regarding the commonly used finished out on the market today....after watching it, I have used acrylic resolene diluted 50% with water and haven't looked back....I used it whether I am dyeing my projects or just leaving them natural....hope it helps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM

Cool thanks.

[Sona]

So you want the "easiest way" to finish a piece of leather...
In my brain "easy" also connects with "hard to make mistakes"

I´d go for

1) just one coat of oil -> let it sit for at least a day

[2a) just buff it with some cloth (actually might not be neccessary, but I do it ^^) ]

2b) apply some thick coat of leatherbalm (I don´t mean exspecially the one from Fiebings, I use some made bye my leather supplier himself... just some different sort of wachses and stuff...), but don´t wipe it of, so let it sit for like half an hour (if it soaks in: apply again) and after that just wipe it of and buff the hole piece again.... quite unexpensive, no varnish or similar stuff needed, hard to fail on that procedure!
PLUS, applied it that way, I got no bleeding of my brown dyed pieces and it is resistant to water at least like resolene!

The way Ian tests those finishes is usefull if you have no idea what you are doing, what it also depends on how you apply them!

[chiefjason]

This pretty much applies to all my leather stuff, mainly holsters though.

Dampen leather and dye color of choice. I find damp leather takes the dye better. YMMV

Apply a 50/50 mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil. The mix is created by heating equal parts of each until it's all liquid. Then I pour it in a plastic bowl. paste is then rubbed onto leather lightly and I use a heat gun to soak it in. 3 coats of this. I usually let it rest overnight here.

Light coat of a 50/50 mix of Mop & Glo and water inside and out. Wipe off excess on the dyed outside. Let set several hours. Second coat to edges and interior only. Sit several hours again.

Apply leather balm/atom wax. Let dry. Buff off.

[bdunne]

This is a great thread. Great question and great answers. Thanks to all!

[Dwight]

I do it the simple way:

1) prepare the belt, . . . sewing / tooling / stamping / and dress the edges with the proper edging tool

2) burnish the edges with water and a wooden burnisher on my motor or with my dremel

3) dye the belt, . . . dip dyed in whatever solution I choose for the product, . . . if it is Feibings oil dye, . . . it is generally cut 50% with thinner, . . . let dry 24 hrs, . . . lay on bottom edge of belt in a circle on cardboard for 10-20 minutes, . . . turn it over, . . . leave on the top edge for an hour or so, . . . hang up by one end. If you hang it up right out of the dye tank, . . . dye will migrate to the lower end, . . . giving you a dark end / light end / multiple shades in between.

4) apply 1st coat of Resolene, . . . cut 50/50 with water, . . . applied with cheap 1 in bristle brush, . . . flesh side, . . . then top, . . . hang it up, . . . touch up edges where you handled it

5) re-burnish the edges / add hardware / if I want it to have a high gloss finish, . . . 50/50 mix of neatsfoot oil and bees wax applied to the outside and edges with my finger, . . . let dry, . . . buff, . . . kinda like using shoe polish.

That's my way, . . . works for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Reindeer]

So you want the "easiest way" to finish a piece of leather...

In my brain "easy" also connects with "hard to make mistakes"

I´d go for

1) just one coat of oil -> let it sit for at least a day

[2a) just buff it with some cloth (actually might not be neccessary, but I do it ^^) ]

2b) apply some thick coat of leatherbalm (I don´t mean exspecially the one from Fiebings, I use some made bye my leather supplier himself... just some different sort of wachses and stuff...), but don´t wipe it of, so let it sit for like half an hour (if it soaks in: apply again) and after that just wipe it of and buff the hole piece again.... quite unexpensive, no varnish or similar stuff needed, hard to fail on that procedure!

PLUS, applied it that way, I got no bleeding of my brown dyed pieces and it is resistant to water at least like resolene!

The way Ian tests those finishes is usefull if you have no idea what you are doing, what it also depends on how you apply them!

Very nice, thank you.

This pretty much applies to all my leather stuff, mainly holsters though.

Dampen leather and dye color of choice. I find damp leather takes the dye better. YMMV

Apply a 50/50 mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil. The mix is created by heating equal parts of each until it's all liquid. Then I pour it in a plastic bowl. paste is then rubbed onto leather lightly and I use a heat gun to soak it in. 3 coats of this. I usually let it rest overnight here.

Light coat of a 50/50 mix of Mop & Glo and water inside and out. Wipe off excess on the dyed outside. Let set several hours. Second coat to edges and interior only. Sit several hours again.

Apply leather balm/atom wax. Let dry. Buff off.

I like it, thanks.

I do it the simple way:

1) prepare the belt, . . . sewing / tooling / stamping / and dress the edges with the proper edging tool

2) burnish the edges with water and a wooden burnisher on my motor or with my dremel

3) dye the belt, . . . dip dyed in whatever solution I choose for the product, . . . if it is Feibings oil dye, . . . it is generally cut 50% with thinner, . . . let dry 24 hrs, . . . lay on bottom edge of belt in a circle on cardboard for 10-20 minutes, . . . turn it over, . . . leave on the top edge for an hour or so, . . . hang up by one end. If you hang it up right out of the dye tank, . . . dye will migrate to the lower end, . . . giving you a dark end / light end / multiple shades in between.

4) apply 1st coat of Resolene, . . . cut 50/50 with water, . . . applied with cheap 1 in bristle brush, . . . flesh side, . . . then top, . . . hang it up, . . . touch up edges where you handled it

5) re-burnish the edges / add hardware / if I want it to have a high gloss finish, . . . 50/50 mix of neatsfoot oil and bees wax applied to the outside and edges with my finger, . . . let dry, . . . buff, . . . kinda like using shoe polish.

That's my way, . . . works for me.

May God bless,

Dwight

Cool, thanks. Do you buff it with a piece of cloth or do you need to use one of those horsehair brushes?

[snubbyfan]

I do mostly belts, holsters and knife sheaths.On this I used Fiebings saddle tan oil dye. I allowed the dye a couple of days to dry then buffed it. I did all my edge work then stitched. For the final finish, I gave it a light coat of Pure Neatsfoot Oil and allowed that to dry for a couple of days. After I give that a hand buffing, I applied 2 coats of Tan Kote, buffing between coats.

[lapresle]

Greetings, I'm a complete neophyte to leather work and appreciate any help offered. In looking around online, I've noticed a few pieces finished in a way that appeals to me. I was wondering if those more knowledgeable could tell me what this finish is and how it's done. When I've seen it, the only description is "oil finish" and I've Googled that, but the results have to do with caring for an oil finish. I've attached a couple of pictures to show the finish I'm talking about. Any help or direction would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Kevin

[Sona]

To me that looks like it could have been "finished" oil and nothing more...

If there would be any kind of top coat, you´d recognize a surface, even with waxes there is some kind of "top layer"as it binds to the fibres.
The pieces on your pictures look quite rough to me and as you can see not even the edges are smoothed, polished or anything.... besides the stitching, which will fail quite fast for a handstitched item, the "rough" stuff is just style I guess.
As Monica said on the previous side already: you don´t "have to" put a finish on a product, but it helps a lot (like wooden handles on brushes are often left without any varnish or oil...)
Like this your surface will age much faster thatn in any other way, it will catch up scratches and stuff quite fast, will soak in water and leave marks of it, etc....
Indeed it is a style, but you should know about that I think ^^.

My brother once had light brown shoes without a sealing and wined about his "ruined" shoes after one night in the disco... so I cleaned them up for him, asking whether I should at least apply some balm/wax to protect them... well... no he liked them the way he bought them (I tested it and the leather balm darkened the leather quite heavy... really beautifull but he didn´t like -.-).
So one week later, he came again with his "ruined" shoes, asking if I could apply some wax on them, heared nothing about that since

[veedub3]

In her listing on Etsy, the very first line of the description says the card wallet is made from a soft, oiled leather (meaning oil tanned leather). as in it comes from the tannery that way. Tandy has a oiled tanned leather, and I have gotten a side from Maverick Leather before. I am sure there are other suppliers, but in your search look for oil tanned leather sides.

Karina

I forgot watherhouse leather carries oil tanned leather also.

Edited March 10, 2015 by veedub3

[lapresle]

Thank you Sona and Karina, I wasn't sure if the oil tanned was the leather or the finish applied to the leather, but it makes sense to me now. I appreciate it.

[Reindeer]

I do mostly belts, holsters and knife sheaths.On this I used Fiebings saddle tan oil dye. I allowed the dye a couple of days to dry then buffed it. I did all my edge work then stitched. For the final finish, I gave it a light coat of Pure Neatsfoot Oil and allowed that to dry for a couple of days. After I give that a hand buffing, I applied 2 coats of Tan Kote, buffing between coats.

Very nice. Thanks