Contact Cement My Nemesis - Dear Lord Someone Help Me!

[Windrider30]

Still learning the ropes when it comes to dying leather. Been running into a problem when I accidentally get contact cement in a spot I do not want. As contact cement does not take dye, how the heck do I remove the contact cement without having to take a chunk of leather out of my project. Too scared to use methylated spirits as I do not know what it may do the leather or dye. Tried sandpaper with limited success. Any other ideas? thanks in advance ...p.s. do not scratch nose with contact cement on finger you lose flesh!! ~)

[Bob Blea]

Unfortunately contact cement makes a really good resist, and (depending on the type) the solvents can really penetrate the leather. There may not be much you can do to remove it. Any chance you can hide that spot somehow?

[JAZZMAN]

I too learnt this lesson the hard way, contact cement i a great product sadly sometimes that can work against you, i really do not think there is any way to get round this one, so sorry.

[Windrider30]

Ugg was hoping there was away around it other then just hacking a layer of leather out and as for hiding it no unfortinatly it is on a seam and it shows up since I am using black antique gel.

[Colt W Knight]

had the same problem, now I dye before I glue.

[Matt T]

I use a block of rubber to take off extra rubber cement but it's hard to get it all off.

[Troy I]

Use a rubber eraser and gently rub it over the contact cement... as long as it is on the smooth side of the hide , it will come off without a problem. I then clean the entire project with a rag and rubbing alcohol.

Edited April 23, 2015 by Troy I

[Windrider30]

Cool thanks for the idea of using a rubber eraser. And as for dying before I put it all together I might have to start doing that again. The project I was working on in question is a neck corset and I wanted to be able to punch all the holes then dye it as one whole piece it came out ok but you can see a few small marks where I had to cut some of the leather to remove the contact cement.

[Troy I]

I should have the added, make sure the contact cement is dry before you rub it with the eraser. If you don't wait till its completely dry you will rub it into the leather and cause problems when you dye it.

[TexasJack]

The list of people who have had this problem includes everyone who has ever used contact cement.

The best solution is to not drip it on the project in the first place. You can keep a piece of foil or wax paper nearby and cover the area near where you are gluing to keep stuff from dripping on it.

But the best solution is one offered by Chuck Burrows on his sheathmaking video. The most likely source of a drip is from the cement that's on the stem of the brush when you take it out of the can. (It oozes down to the brush and then drips off just as it's crossing your leather.) What he did was keep an old cement can (and he may have put some solvent in it) and he uses the brush from that empty can to do his application. That way only the tip of the brush goes down into the jar full of cement.

[ChriJ]

The list of people who have had this problem includes everyone who has ever used contact cement.

The best solution is to not drip it on the project in the first place. You can keep a piece of foil or wax paper nearby and cover the area near where you are gluing to keep stuff from dripping on it.

But the best solution is one offered by Chuck Burrows on his sheathmaking video. The most likely source of a drip is from the cement that's on the stem of the brush when you take it out of the can. (It oozes down to the brush and then drips off just as it's crossing your leather.) What he did was keep an old cement can (and he may have put some solvent in it) and he uses the brush from that empty can to do his application. That way only the tip of the brush goes down into the jar full of cement.

Thanks for passing that on.. Hadn't thought of that one. I'll be hunting up an empty can in the morning

Chris

[Sluggo001]

I put contact cement in squeeze bottles for better control.

[Windrider30]

Thanks for the ideas, the dripping is one problem that has plagued me in the past I just use a paper towel and run it down the brush to wipe off the extra crap. The problem I have especially with this neck corset is when I bend the parts (and there is a lot of bending) unfortinatly once in a while I will go over the seam allounce and spread the contact cement to a smaller part of the leather that was NOT suppose to go there. I will try the rubber trick a bit later and yeah need to get an old can to use thanks for that information and thank you one and all for the help you have given me some great ideas to try!

[DS STRAPS]

I put contact cement in squeeze bottles for better control.

Sound like an awesome idea! Is there certain type of squeeze bottle your using?

[Nuttish]

This works on the grain of some kinds of leather and the flesh side of everything:

[billybopp]

I bought one o' these to help eliminate drips from the brush shaft ... it works great, but be sure to rub a little vaseline inside the cap threads to prevent them getting cemented in place! http://springfieldleather.com/16721/Jar%2CPlastic%2CCement%2C32oz/

Solder flux brushes are also excellent for use with contact cement, and they're inexpensive and disposable! ( you can buy 100 for about $20 if you shop )

Nuttish has the right idea too .. blue tape works great for masking, but do be careful about what type you use. Not all of them have the same amount of tack for the adhesive .. you want very low tack for the grain side, and even then do not leave it on longer than necessary.

Not necessarily part of the original post problem ... but cool in any case ... If you need to contact cement a large area, or long line ... glue up both parts, twice if necessary, let them get tacky and then put a big piece of thickish plastic or a piece of waxed paper between the parts and slowly pull it out as you align the pieces!

Bill

[Windrider30]

Bill mate that is a cool idea about the wax paper that is a must try thank you for that idea, man I so do love this forum I have learned a lot just from reading and some of the posts that people have helped me with.

[Dwight]

I finally got smart a few years back: went to Harbor Freight, . . . bought a whole package of brushes, . . . 36 brushes for 3 bucks.

One will last a whole day, . . . pitch it at the end of the day.

Contact cement is in the can with the pry up lid (from Lowes), . . .

No drippy, . . . no droppy, . . . no sloppy, . . . well, ............most of the time anyway

I refuse to do it any other way, . . .

May God bless,

Dwight

[MorningStarL]

I've done it too. Sometimes, if I'm dying black, I'll go over the spot with a permanent black Sharpie marker before I finish coat. That helps.

[MorningStarL]

I've done it too. Sometimes, if I'm dying black, I'll go over the spot with a permanent black Sharpie marker before I finish coat. That helps.

[Windrider30]

Thanks for the idea on the sharpie oh and the rubber eraser works rather well tried that last night on some eco weld leather bonding from tandy

[Trevor]

Hi there.

I get contact glue everywhere sometimes and I use mineral turpentine to remove. It will break down the glue but don't rub and rub too hard.

Good luck

Trevor

"Way Down Under"

[Windrider30]

Hey Trevor how did the leather respond to the turpentine...more importantly did the dye get effected?

[Trevor]

Hi there.

The leather that I use is mostly factory dyed. The turps has no effect on the dye but breaks down and gets rid of the glue.

if you use it on raw russet (Natural colour veg) just remember to rub the turps all over the leather not just on the glue. If there is any colour change it will be constant and go un- noticed. Always try a little on your dyed area first just to be sure.

Cheers

"Way Down Under"

[Windrider30]

Thanks Mate for that I will try a small piece tomorrow as I think I have some metho still in the laundry room.