Family Sew Fs-550S Servo Motor.

[GaryNunn]

I have a Family Sew FS-550s servo motor on my Singer 111W151. It was working fine for hours tonight, and then suddenly it started running at full speed even when the speed control was turned down and the foot lever not depressed. If the powers on, even if the foot pedal isn't depressed it starts running at full speed until I turn off the power.

I'm guessing it's toasted?

[Wishful]

I had a similar problem from a servo motor. Thankfully it was under warrant and I got some of my money back but I got a lot of grief from the seller, one of the sponsors here... is yours under warrant still?

[kgeo]

Well I had the same problem. Motor under warrenty bought from one of the sellers here and didn't get money back or repaired, Was told it must have been something I did, they had never had that problem before. Go figure.

[Wishful]

Sounds like a pattern...

[MG513]

Hi, would you guys mind in boxing him who this person was?? I plan on buying the same motor for my consew I'm picking up this Wednesday and would hate to have this same experience!! Thanks a lot

[MG513]

Inbox me not him lol***

[SkullCanyon]

I have 3 of these and never a problem....

[Art]

I was just going to buy one of those, let me have a PM on the dealer who was not very responsive.

Thanks,

Art

[MG513]

I was just going to buy one of those, let me have a PM on the dealer who was not very responsive.

Thanks,

Art

I have 3 of these and never a problem....

Yea I'm pretty sure it's a case by case thing. Have heard many ppl are happy with it and have heard that many didn't need a reducer when buying this.

With that said, I have a pretty good idea of who they were referring too but I would hate to be wrong... So...

Edited November 9, 2015 by MG513

[Colt W Knight]

I bought mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing machines, and it has ran like a top for over a year now. This is the first time I have seen a complaint about the motor, but hearing Made in China electronics suddenly broke doesn't surprise me much.

[MG513]

I bought mine from Toledo Industrial Sewing machines, and it has ran like a top for over a year now. This is the first time I have seen a complaint about the motor, but hearing Made in China electronics suddenly broke doesn't surprise me much.

Yes thats where I planned on getting mine as well. ABout how long did it take to get to you?

[Colt W Knight]

Talked to Bob on the phone one afternoon, and he mailed it the next morning. I think it took 2-3 days to get here. I've ordered from Bob 3-4 times and never had any issues.

[pcox]

I have 5 of those on machines here and must have installed 20 or more in the past 3 years. I did get one that never ran at all right out of the box. Bob replaced it no questions asked.

[Wizcrafts]

I have bought 4 Family Sew 550s motors from Toledo Industrial and have had no problems at all. They usually arrive in one or two business days, depending on what time you order (re: UPS truck pickup time). Two are on 441 machines and two on walking foot machines, one of which I sold.

The only caveat I discovered is that they work better if you pull the lever straight down, rather than on an angle. Pulling on an angle flexes the shaft and sensor and can cause a slowdown at the end of travel, just when you expect more speed.

[MG513]

Talked to Bob on the phone one afternoon, and he mailed it the next morning. I think it took 2-3 days to get here. I've ordered from Bob 3-4 times and never had any issues.

I have 5 of those on machines here and must have installed 20 or more in the past 3 years. I did get one that never ran at all right out of the box. Bob replaced it no questions asked.

I have bought 4 Family Sew 550s motors from Toledo Industrial and have had no problems at all. They usually arrive in one or two business days, depending on what time you order (re: UPS truck pickup time). Two are on 441 machines and two on walking foot machines, one of which I sold.

The only caveat I discovered is that they work better if you pull the lever straight down, rather than on an angle. Pulling on an angle flexes the shaft and sensor and can cause a slowdown at the end of travel, just when you expect more speed.

Nice. Glad to know they ship quick!!!

Yes, I've heard a lot of good things this servo and Bob. He was who I was gonna originally get my sewing machine from but I found another one before he got around to servicing one at his shop.

Wiz crafts, I wish I knew what lever you were talking about, but I don't. Never sewn anything ever, this will be my first sewing machine (consew 206rb) and first time installing a servo motor. All I currently care about is that it works lol. I hope to become as knowledgable as many of you... I'm just taking it one step at a time. I'm gonna order my servo tomoro. Trying to gather all the tools I think I will need to disassemble the clutch so I can get it up more stairs more easily on Wednesday... Then tackle putting the servo on. Thanks everyone!

[Wizcrafts]

Wiz crafts, I wish I knew what lever you were talking about, but I don't. Never sewn anything ever, this will be my first sewing machine (consew 206rb) and first time installing a servo motor.

The FS-550s has a plastic activator lever facing forward when the motor is mounted under a standard sewing machine table. The lever moves down to release the brake and increase the speed. Just make sure that the rods or chain you use to connect it to the floor pedal are routed as straight vertically as possible. This is usually not a problem on walking foot machines, as the floor pedal sits pretty much under the left edge of the motor and control lever.

[Colt W Knight]

Nice. Glad to know they ship quick!!!

Yes, I've heard a lot of good things this servo and Bob. He was who I was gonna originally get my sewing machine from but I found another one before he got around to servicing one at his shop.

Wiz crafts, I wish I knew what lever you were talking about, but I don't. Never sewn anything ever, this will be my first sewing machine (consew 206rb) and first time installing a servo motor. All I currently care about is that it works lol. I hope to become as knowledgable as many of you... I'm just taking it one step at a time. I'm gonna order my servo tomoro. Trying to gather all the tools I think I will need to disassemble the clutch so I can get it up more stairs more easily on Wednesday... Then tackle putting the servo on. Thanks everyone!

I put one on my Consew 206, makes sewing super easy because of the speed control, plus its much quieter than that old clunker of a clutch motor. Seriously, the clutch motor on mine weighed a good 50-60 lbs.

https://youtu.be/t9y5RoogvYo

[MG513]

The FS-550s has a plastic activator lever facing forward when the motor is mounted under a standard sewing machine table. The lever moves down to release the brake and increase the speed. Just make sure that the rods or chain you use to connect it to the floor pedal are routed as straight vertically as possible. This is usually not a problem on walking foot machines, as the floor pedal sits pretty much under the left edge of the motor and control lever.

Thanks! I will try to figure all this out as I go along using this info and info from other members!

I put one on my Consew 206, makes sewing super easy because of the speed control, plus its much quieter than that old clunker of a clutch motor. Seriously, the clutch motor on mine weighed a good 50-60 lbs.

https://youtu.be/t9y5RoogvYo

Yea colt your video pretty much sold me on it so thanks for that! Do you have a list of tools you know a person would need to remove the clutch/install the servo? Im going to pick up the machine tomoro and Ill be lugging it up stairs, after I test it I planned on taking the clutch off to make travel easier?? Thanks

ALSO! Does anybody have a IN STORE suggestion for machine oil??? I dont have access to lily right now i just need something between now and tomoro as this machine has been sitting! THANKS!

[dikman]

MG, this is based on my removing/replacing 3 clutch motors. Basic tools - a couple of spanners, because you don't know the size of the nuts you can either take a set of spanners or a couple of adjustable wrenches, a medium to biggish one for the nuts holding the motor on and a smaller one for the bolts on the pedal-motor linkage. A couple of screwdrivers to remove the switch box. It will be held on with either slotted or Philips head screws (use long shank if you can, just in case). Pair of pliers to remove any cable clips.

Procedure - unplug power cord (!) and remove switch box. Remove any clips holding the power cable to the table. Disconnect pedal linkage. Remove drive belt. Loosen the three nuts holding the motor on and let the motor hang down on the bolts. While supporting the motor remove the single nut at the front then slide the motor out from the remaining two bolts.

Done.

As for the oil question (I love oil questions!!!!) at the risk of starting a flaming war if you've got 3-in-1 oil handy use that. Much is written about oils, and much of what is written is irrelevant (and oft-times rubbish). Basically, all you really want is a thinnish oil. Auto Trans Fluid is actually quite good as a thin oil (it was originally developed as a replacement for Sperm Whale oil, which is considered by many to be one of the better lubricating oils - but obviously you can't get it any more). Just don't get yourself into a knot over oils as most of them aren't anything special (regardless of what the manufacturer might tell you - MSDS is your friend ).

Edited November 11, 2015 by dikman

[SARK9]

I would suggest that there is an enormous body of experience that discourages the use of either WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil in sewing machines, guns, fishing reels....anything which will be sensitive to gummy or hygroscopic shellac deposits over time. There is nothing easier to get than ordinary sewing machine *white* oil. Avoid any gimmick oil that is suspended in a volatile carrier, as the carrier evaporates over time and leaves lord-knows-what behind. Any machines with ball or roller bearings should not use an oil with moly additives.

-DC

Edited November 11, 2015 by SARK9

[MG513]

MG, this is based on my removing/replacing 3 clutch motors. Basic tools - a couple of spanners, because you don't know the size of the nuts you can either take a set of spanners or a couple of adjustable wrenches, a medium to biggish one for the nuts holding the motor on and a smaller one for the bolts on the pedal-motor linkage. A couple of screwdrivers to remove the switch box. It will be held on with either slotted or Philips head screws (use long shank if you can, just in case). Pair of pliers to remove any cable clips.

Procedure - unplug power cord (!) and remove switch box. Remove any clips holding the power cable to the table. Disconnect pedal linkage. Remove drive belt. Loosen the three nuts holding the motor on and let the motor hang down on the bolts. While supporting the motor remove the single nut at the front then slide the motor out from the remaining two bolts.

Done.

As for the oil question (I love oil questions!!!!) at the risk of starting a flaming war if you've got 3-in-1 oil handy use that. Much is written about oils, and much of what is written is irrelevant (and oft-times rubbish). Basically, all you really want is a thinnish oil. Auto Trans Fluid is actually quite good as a thin oil (it was originally developed as a replacement for Sperm Whale oil, which is considered by many to be one of the better lubricating oils - but obviously you can't get it any more). Just don't get yourself into a knot over oils as most of them aren't anything special (regardless of what the manufacturer might tell you - MSDS is your friend ).

I would suggest that there is an enormous body of experience that discourages the use of either WD-40 or 3-in-1 oil in sewing machines, guns, fishing reels....anything which will be sensitive to gummy or hygroscopic shellac deposits over time. There is nothing easier to get than ordinary sewing machine *white* oil. Avoid any gimmick oil that is suspended in a volatile carrier, as the carrier evaporates over time and leaves lord-knows-what behind. Any machines with ball or roller bearings should not use an oil with moly additives.

-DC

THANKS EVERYBODY.

I told them not to use WD40 or 3 n 1, but 3n1 is readily available so it will have to do this time. This is my first go round Im just learning as I go… I ordered this stuff online but the post off lost my package, either that or it was stolen so I didn't have time to order this stuff again and wait for shipping. The sewing places I have here in my city are a joke, they sell nothing for industrial machines, not even basic V69 thread!! I got lucky and bought an almost used up spool from an old lady's shop for 5 bucks. I know we live in an online everything age but it starts to get really inconvenient at times like this when your learning a new craft and can't walk into a chain hardware store and find some darn oil! Or any other super basic parts!

Anyways. Im feeling pretty confident with all the help I'm getting from everybody. I now have a list for tools needed from 2 very nice members, a short version and a long version for properly taking off the clutch/adding servo which was big for me cause I've never done this stuff before! I will order the proper oil when i order my servo today from Toledo Bob. Thanks yal!

[CowboyBob]

Years ago when I first started repairing sewing machines my neighbor wanted me to look @ his mothers machine.I went there & it was a real old White treadle machine.So I looked it over oiled it,threaded it & started to sew & it started getting tighter,so I oiled it again & then it tied up & wouldn't turn.The she started yelling to him in Italian & he started getting upset w/me saying she thought I ruined her machine.I didn't know what to do so I said let me take it with me & fix it.She didn't like the idea but he convinced her it'll be ok.So I took it to work & told the old mechanic what happened & he just started laughing & thought it was really funny.Then he said that's what happens after years of 3 in 1.It builds up a waxing shellac type of crap in the bearings & when I oiled it it expanded & tied it up.He said take to kerosene & put in the bearings,so I did & it freed up.Took it back & she was smiling when I left.So after that I don't want to think about using 3 n1 on anything.ATF,motor oil,gear lube isn't good for most machines either,if it drips off the machine onto what your sewing it'll stain.It is best to use clear sewing machine oil or mineral oil.Even then if someone has used the wrong oil n the past it might stain for a while until it gets worked out of the machine.

[MG513]

Years ago when I first started repairing sewing machines my neighbor wanted me to look @ his mothers machine.I went there & it was a real old White treadle machine.So I looked it over oiled it,threaded it & started to sew & it started getting tighter,so I oiled it again & then it tied up & wouldn't turn.The she started yelling to him in Italian & he started getting upset w/me saying she thought I ruined her machine.I didn't know what to do so I said let me take it with me & fix it.She didn't like the idea but he convinced her it'll be ok.So I took it to work & told the old mechanic what happened & he just started laughing & thought it was really funny.Then he said that's what happens after years of 3 in 1.It builds up a waxing shellac type of crap in the bearings & when I oiled it it expanded & tied it up.He said take to kerosene & put in the bearings,so I did & it freed up.Took it back & she was smiling when I left.So after that I don't want to think about using 3 n1 on anything.ATF,motor oil,gear lube isn't good for most machines either,if it drips off the machine onto what your sewing it'll stain.It is best to use clear sewing machine oil or mineral oil.Even then if someone has used the wrong oil n the past it might stain for a while until it gets worked out of the machine.

Wow. I'm hoping they haven't been doing the same thing. But I'm also glad to hear that it could be fixed if so! Again,this will be a one time use thing on my part as I know this oil isn't ideal, I'm just on time constraint. I will be calling you later today to order oil and possibly my servo. Thanks again everybody!

[CowboyBob]

Any oil is better than no oil.

[TinkerTailor]

I get bicycle vintage 3-speed transmissions at work all the time that are broken....They are usually fine and have seized up from improper oil, 3in1 and even sewing machine oil. Any oil over time will eventually turn to varish, how long is the question. My fix is to spray an ounce or 3 of wd40 into the lube hole and then run the hub as fast as i can until it frees up. I then drain the wd40 (and all the chunky black cruddy stuff) out and put in ATF. It lasts and works, but would stain stuff in a sewing environment.

WD40 is a great cleaner and solvent, and will break down gummy oil and lube the machine a little while it does it. It is the only thing i know of that will break down old lube but not leave the machine unlubricated while doing it. It is NOT a long term lube. Ever.

Btw, wd40 is amazing at taking off sticker glue from surfaces.