Singer 51W59

[LumpenDoodle2]

I'm probably wrong, but have you tried holding the thread ends at the start of the stitch just for the first stitch or two. If that doesn't help, could it be the wrong thread/needle size?

Another thought is that the thread take up is allowing too much slack, but I would have expected that to cause missed stitches or thread break.

[dikman]

I have been holding the thread, but it still did it. I think, though, that the problem is definitely the top (needle) thread being caught somehow by the pickup hook on the shuttle. That would indicate slack thread somewhere. A bit frustrating, but I figure I must be close to getting it working - I'm just not game to run the motor until I know it will do a reliable hand stitch.

[Northmount]

Try more top thread tension, also see if the check spring is working.

Tom

[Wizcrafts]

Add some travel to the check spring.

[dikman]

I went out to play with it a bit more, and think I've got it! I've identified three issues.

1. I wasn't holding the thread tight enough at the start (LumpenDoodle2 was right in that regard). This was allowing it to pull back into the shuttle.

2. It needs a lot more tension on the upper (needle) thread than I thought it would need. I'll need to look at my tensioner, as it's almost maxxed out tension-wise now.

3. There is a "bobbin case lever" to the left of the hook. Its function is to turn the bobbin case very slightly, at the right moment, to allow the needle thread to slide past the bobbin case. It looked like it was working ok at first, but then I noticed that there seemed to be a very slight resistance to the thread sliding between the lever and the case. I re-adjusted it slightly (we're talking 1mm here!) and that looked like the final piece to the puzzle.

I ran a quick stitch on a piece of 4-5 oz. veg-tan and didn't look too bad. I then tried it glued to a piece of 7-8 oz, the first run was ok but the second broke the needle (mainly due to the lack of slow speed control). The larger pulley I fitted actually works quite well on thinner stuff, giving me reasonable control, but on thicker material it jams if I start real slow. If I can rig up a pulley reduction system that should solve that problem.

So far it's cost me $36 for the neoprene for the belt and $20 for the junked 201K (for the tensioner). Not too bad, considering what the machine is probably capable of .

Thanks for all the help, folks.

Edited July 31, 2015 by dikman

[Constabulary]

cool - I like it - didn´t know it has this type of thread tensioner, I thought it uses the "standard" one like most the machiens have.

I´m also looking for a post bed machine. Will you rework the paint job? Maybe black again and some new decals?

Edited July 31, 2015 by Constabulary

[dikman]

"Standard" tensioner? What's that look like? The parts breakdown in the manual looks pretty much the same as my 201, so I just assumed it was the same type. If there's a better one to use let me know.

It would be nice to repaint it, (Singer black and gold?) seeing that it's flaking off, but that may be sometime down the track. As it's an industrial machine I just assumed that the grey finish was par for the course.

I'm thinking of making a small table to fit around the "post" so that I can also have a flat area to lay the work on.

[Constabulary]

everything is okay, I just thought the machien would use this tensioner since a lot of sewing machiens are using it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/THREAD-TENSION-BRACKET-COMPLETE-240446-CONSEW-206-225-226-227-SINGER-111-111W-/121468542954?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4816dfea

[dikman]

No worries, mate. That one would require a fair bit of work to make it fit!

[Northmount]

If the top tension is set very tight, and is hard to pull through the thread path, try using a larger needle size. It will make a larger hole and you can reduce the top tension accordingly.

Tom