overackerh Report post Posted August 3, 2015 (edited) Okay I've stalked this site for quite some time now, and thanks to many of you all's knowledge and expertise, you have encouraged me to save my money. Well, now has come the time I have finally saved what I assume is necessary to step my foot into the world of the industrial machine. I have finally saved approximately $2500 for a machine, and now I'm stuck. (I have separately for the servo motor and shopping, as well as a little differences in costs if necessary if it makes a drastic difference). I need your help! I can't decide between the Consew 227 or the 277 and/or their different models. From what I've read the "R" on the end of each model type represents "reverse" which I think for my use is absolutely necessary. What I'll be sewing is leather bags (the usual) plus some saddle bags, leather luggage, and occasionally sometimes jeans with 8+ layers of denim (typical jeans). I've tried and tried researching the differences and sometimes they're so vague I can't derives between the two. Does the advertise spi for each mode mean up to that particular width or just specially that width only? Also the distance between the foot clearance gets a bit confusing. Also on a more drastic and far fetched question, what is the difference between 227R-1, 227R-2, 227R-3, as well as 277R, 277RFS, 277R-3, 277RBFS, 277RFS and their various different models between types, etc? All the lettering confuses me and I can't seem to find a source to clarify the differences between types of each different model! Please help! Edited August 3, 2015 by overackerh Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted August 3, 2015 (edited) R means reverse and B means big bobbin I believe on consew. I don't know about the other letters The numbers after the dashes are the next generation model numbers. Sometimes they have upgraded features, changed features or just manufactures in a different place. Edited August 3, 2015 by Colt W Knight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregg From Keystone Sewing Report post Posted August 3, 2015 Consew Model Key Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted August 4, 2015 (edited) The SPI rating is the maximum. It is not a fixed value on walking foot machines You should get a machine with a dial stitch length adjuster, if possible. The clicks between stops make duplication of results possible. Floating vertical levers are not nearly so accurate if you change the position often. You'll want a machine with a press down reverse lever. As for stitch lengths, the smallest stitches would go into hems on jeans or dress pants and would be between 8 and 10 to the inch. Soft leather needs about 6 or 7 to the inch to avoid puckering the bottom. Medium density leather looks nice at 5 to the inch. Harder or thicker stacks of leather and light webbing can take 4 to the inch. Tow ropes should be sewn at 3 to the inch, or longer, if the machine will do that length. All this pertains to walking foot machines, not straight stitch. The feed dynamic is totally different. If most of your sewing will be with the same one or two colors in the bobbin, seek a large bobbin machine. Most of the large bobbin non-Juki machines use a size called M style, which holds about 1.5x the amount of a standard bobbin. Juki's large bobbin is known as an LU style that is double capacity to the standard industrial bobbins. The aforementioned bobbins relate to commonly available, upholstery grade, compound feed walking foot machines, like the Consew, Chandler, Juki, Cowboy, Cobra, Highlead, Techsew, etc, etc. There are other brands that have their own large bobbin specs. Also, the big leather stitchers do not use these bobbins. Edited August 4, 2015 by Wizcrafts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
overackerh Report post Posted August 6, 2015 The SPI rating is the maximum. It is not a fixed value on walking foot machines You should get a machine with a dial stitch length adjuster, if possible. The clicks between stops make duplication of results possible. Floating vertical levers are not nearly so accurate if you change the position often. You'll want a machine with a press down reverse lever. As for stitch lengths, the smallest stitches would go into hems on jeans or dress pants and would be between 8 and 10 to the inch. Soft leather needs about 6 or 7 to the inch to avoid puckering the bottom. Medium density leather looks nice at 5 to the inch. Harder or thicker stacks of leather and light webbing can take 4 to the inch. Tow ropes should be sewn at 3 to the inch, or longer, if the machine will do that length. All this pertains to walking foot machines, not straight stitch. The feed dynamic is totally different. If most of your sewing will be with the same one or two colors in the bobbin, seek a large bobbin machine. Most of the large bobbin non-Juki machines use a size called M style, which holds about 1.5x the amount of a standard bobbin. Juki's large bobbin is known as an LU style that is double capacity to the standard industrial bobbins. The aforementioned bobbins relate to commonly available, upholstery grade, compound feed walking foot machines, like the Consew, Chandler, Juki, Cowboy, Cobra, Highlead, Techsew, etc, etc. There are other brands that have their own large bobbin specs. Also, the big leather stitchers do not use these bobbins. You are too awesome! I was using the website and various other sites as a point of reference, but this website is definitely my go-to. Anyway, I just didn't understand the differences in models if their differences were slight. Now that I have found the differences because of the PDF posted above, is the binder detachable and reattachable with ease? Or, can I just simply by one separately and screw it separately on a model that isn't listed as FS? Just curious. There seems to be a few differences in the the two different types, 227 and 277, just didn't know how drastic they were considering on the website it literally lists almost the exact same things. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SueC56 Report post Posted January 28, 2020 Wiz, as usual you ARE the Wizard. You confirmed what I suspected: "You should get a machine with a dial stitch length adjuster, if possible. The clicks between stops make duplication of results possible. Floating vertical levers are not nearly so accurate if you change the position often. You'll want a machine with a press down reverse lever." Thanks! Sue C Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silverd Report post Posted April 21, 2020 Wiz is the "Man" I can confirm Silverd Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted April 21, 2020 Definitely doesn't look like a girl in the photos I've seen! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
