Reinforced Top Straps For Iwb Holsters

[Brooks125]

I've begun making holsters and gun leather on a hobby / someday-business basis. It's gone well and I've started making holsters for friends and others. I'm getting ready to start my first IWB holster, and wanted some input on the best way to reinforce the top strap so as to make it stay open for re-holstering. Does a rawhide insert work well, or will I need to get spring steel or some other insert? I've heard some people use pallet banding, but does that really retain the shape well enough long term?

[Windrider30]

personally I would not use pallet banding, as I do not think it would hold the shape over a long period, rawhide might work but I have yet to use rawhide so can not honeslty answer tha tone, spring steel might be the way to go though, but personally I would avoid pallet banding.

[mlapaglia]

I use a 1 inch wide strip of 8-9 leather around the opening. The pics below show an example of how I do it. This is an early holster but the concept of the reinforced opening is the same on the current model.

It keeps the holster open and does not collapse.

Michael

[Red Bear Haraldsson]

I work in logistics. There are many kinds of pallet banding.
From what I have seen over the years:
Nylon strapping always wants to stay flat.
Steel banding will stay where you put it shape-wise, but you will play merry hell getting into the shape you want in the first place, and you probably won't get any fine detail bends out of it.

I know a couple of places sell 'bag stiffeners' to help bags/purses hold their shapes better, but I have never used it.

Here is another thought on steel: You'll most likely have to cut it with tin snips, then file the edges down as well. Even then, you'll have to wonder how long your leather will last around the ends of the strapping before it comes poking out through the leather...

[Dwight]

I use a 1 inch wide strip of 8-9 leather around the opening. The pics below show an example of how I do it. This is an early holster but the concept of the reinforced opening is the same on the current model.

iwb5 (Small).jpgiwb6 (Small).jpg

It keeps the holster open and does not collapse.

Michael

I'm with Michael, . . . my 1911 holster is working on 10 years old, . . . has a piece of 7 oz, about an inch and a quarter wide, . . . goes most of the way around the gun, . . . and I have NEVER had a problem.

I make all of them the same way, . . . never had a complaint about one closing up.

Methinks the "closed up" IWB is an urban legend to a large degree.

You can see my holster at www.dwightsgunleather.com

May God bless,

Dwight

[Brooks125]

Thanks everyone. I may be overdoing it. I'll steer clear of the banding for sure. I did grab some rawhide and did a test piece, which seems to be rock solid, and may keep that on the back burner if the leather-only method seems weak. Keep in mind, I and most of the guys I've been making pieces for are on the "solid" side, and we kind of test the limits of functionality for IWBs. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again.

[johnv474]

Avoid any metal strip, as it will work harden and break if bent back and forth repeatedly. Once it gets crimped/creased, it will be on its way out. Rawhide could work. Or, make the strap out of two layers of leather and sew a strip of webbing between them. The webbing keeps the leather from stretching out over time.

[byggyns]

As someone with generous dimension in the waist, I can confirm that a IWB holster without reinforcement will collapse at the mouth. The one I have is store bought & does not have any strip around the opening. It's a molded veg tan holster from Tagua- about 6-8 oz leather. Reholstering is a bit of a chore.

As far as another option to consider for between the layers of leather at the opening, kydex is one I would look at. It comes in several thicknesses, is easily molded with a heat gun or toaster oven, and I think Springfield leather will still send you a free sample with your order.

[Red Bear Haraldsson]

Something else to consider with a formed 'insert.' Most common stitch in a holster is the two needle saddle stitch, now just think of the fun involved with fighting the needles in and out of a folded, formed holster.

Another thing to consider. Only police get to put their guns back in the holsters, typically when they outnumber the suspect by a significant margin and the suspects are in restraints. As a civilian, if I have to PULL my gun, my heart would likely be pounding out quite a tattoo, if I had to USE my gun, my heartbeat would likely be closer to a red-lined V-8. I'm not likely to drop my readiness level until competent authority relieves me of it. Once it goes from 'my survival' to 'their scene,' that holster is likely to spend quite a few nights empty and alone.

But, people buy holsters. And people have ideas as to how things 'should be,' and if they want a holster that stays open, that is what you'll want to be making for them. If you get it figured out, great!!

[Dwight]

Obviously Red Bear has never created a holster. The stitching is 99% done on flat sections, . . . and is done by machines.

A few guys still hand sew, . . . but even they do it while it is flat.

As for pulling the piece and waiting for LEO, . . . may be true in a shooting situation, . . . but I pull my piece every night, . . . holster goes one place, . . . gun another, . . . they are married again tomorrow, . . . holster goes on first, . . . and the piece is put on last, . . . long after I have cinched up my belt.

Leaving a weapon in the holster for all the time between shootouts is a bit of a stretch, dontcha think?

May God bless,

Dwight