Members Red Cent Posted September 30, 2015 Members Report Posted September 30, 2015 For giggles and grins, I may pick this up today. Is there anything I should be wary about? They have the two but only this one is on sale. Makes one think..................I will use it for the usual stuff. Belt slots, holes, and work into clicker dies.http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.htmlI have a coupon and a flyer that says I can get it for $154.99 until Oct. 10. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted September 30, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted September 30, 2015 I got the same one Red -- works great. Ya might wanna pick up a couple of 3/8" steel plates to use with it... I cut mine 8" x 18". And you can spend $100 for 'fancy' cutting boards, but that kitchen thingie at Walmart works very well (total investment about $10). Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Contributing Member Ferg Posted September 30, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted September 30, 2015 I got mine for $90 with a hydraulic jack. I spent $118 to put an Air over Hydraulic 20 ton jack on it. Already had a "PanCake" air compressor. To keep the jack from forcing the die too far into the "Cheater" board I made blocks of sufficient height to place between the upper and lower steel plate. Works great! Since we use a CNC Router in our wood shop I am in the process of making Steel Rule Dies for "Clicking" parts. ferg Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted September 30, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted September 30, 2015 50 years got a good idea. I have screw jacks (some might call 'em machinist jacks) to set the working height. If you're cutting / clicking, not so critical with a hand operated press (you'll feel it go through). But using teh air (or hydro) it's good to know where to stop. Also with embossing dies or stamps... good to be able to press them all to the same depth. Imagine a set of embossed coasters where some impressions are deeper than others. The jacks are easily adjustable, and makes them all teh same depth. This doesnt' require "fancy"... two 1/2" or 5/8" bolts and 4 nuts will do 'er .. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members Jimdad Posted September 30, 2015 Members Report Posted September 30, 2015 before putting it together, I'd recommend you inspect each beam on a flat surface with a level. Most problems I've seen with HF items boil down to quality control issues like this. I'd also inspect the threads on the bolts & holes: I've seen reports of holes missing thread entirely, but more frequently a little bit of deburring on HF items will make assembly a lot easier and the final product sturdier. Finally, I've never measure it myself, but I have heard tell that these HF presses can rarely come close to their stated max of 12 & 20 tons. Might make little difference for you, but if your needs will push into the 15+ range, it could matter. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted September 30, 2015 Author Members Report Posted September 30, 2015 As I have read, the 12 ton is at the edge of strength for the clicker dies. At this price for a 20 ton, if I can squeeze 15 or so tons, I will be satisfied. I believe I am getting two 3/4" plates the width of the working space of the bar and long enough to place a holster. And they may be free or very close to it. I have read that some of us have the plates "level" sanded so that they will match up. Has anyone? BTW, thanks for your responses. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted September 30, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted September 30, 2015 I have read that some of us have the plates "level" sanded so that they will match up. Has anyone? BTW, thanks for your responses. 3/4" plates ? Uhh. okay That'll do 'er! As for level sanded (?) I didn't worry about that. I used cold rolled steel, which is pretty durn close to flat.. all you need. The press bed will "float" any irregularity (long as your die is parallel top and bottom, and the cutting board under the leather will 'cure' the last few thousandths of an inch. You may need to machine a flat surface if your steel has been out collecting rust all summer, or if it has been warped by flame cutting. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members Colt W Knight Posted September 30, 2015 Members Report Posted September 30, 2015 http://www.retailmenot.com/view/harborfreight.com?c=7230762 Here are some 20% coupons if you don't already have one. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted September 30, 2015 Author Members Report Posted September 30, 2015 Thanks Colt. The press was on sale for 199.99 but I had a "super coupon" that put the price to 159.99. Now I gotta get a couple of burgers off the grill and bulk up to take that thing off the trailer. I guess everybody had fun putting the press together. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members Colt W Knight Posted September 30, 2015 Members Report Posted September 30, 2015 Thanks Colt. The press was on sale for 199.99 but I had a "super coupon" that put the price to 159.99. Now I gotta get a couple of burgers off the grill and bulk up to take that thing off the trailer. I guess everybody had fun putting the press together. When I finish my doctorate and I get a permenant shop set up, I am going to invest in a clicker press. Quote
King's X Posted September 30, 2015 Report Posted September 30, 2015 I put 3/8" plates on my clicker. I also converted from manual to air hydraulic which has saved my arms. I did go with the smallest size air system. I use a plastic board beneath my leather when clicking. I cut down my press to be a table top after seeing my friends model. It works perfect for me! Good luck Quote Greetings from Central Texas! The Grain Side Up blog #TheGrainSideUp
Contributing Member Ferg Posted September 30, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted September 30, 2015 Mine has 3/8" plates. Largest clicker die I have right now is about 7 1/2" x 8 1/2". My Air/Hydraulic has absolutely no problem with 1/4" plus, thickness of leather. I have one of the thick red plastic cutting boards on the bottom. This unit will cut into that 1/4" if you don't stop it. ferg Quote
Members Red Cent Posted October 1, 2015 Author Members Report Posted October 1, 2015 50, been looking at the Air over Hydraulic. Probably be fairly soon. Was in the plan. The steel will be awful cheap if not free. And it is available. Might need to hang another set of springs on the press. And the press will need to spread its force wide. When you unfold a western holster with the skirt/flap full length, that is big. The skirt runs the full length of the holster. As you can see, I don't care for the big wide skirt. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Members Colt W Knight Posted October 1, 2015 Members Report Posted October 1, 2015 http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-sheets/=z64au8 You can order custom polyethylene sheets from McMaster-carr whatever thickness and length/width you need without paying a middle man too. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted October 1, 2015 Author Members Report Posted October 1, 2015 Thanks again Colt. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Contributing Member Ferg Posted October 1, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted October 1, 2015 The 20 ton air/hydraulic jack comes with heavier springs than the 20 ton hydraulic. Works fine so far. ferg Quote
Mike516 Posted October 12, 2015 Report Posted October 12, 2015 I was looking at these as well. I understand how all this works but have never used one. So I was wondering if you guys attach the 3/8" plates to the top and/or bottom of the work platform. Also, forgetting about price for a second, is there any benefit to the H frame vs the A frame version? Quote
Members Red Cent Posted October 14, 2015 Author Members Report Posted October 14, 2015 Press set up. Have not put the plates on yet. Man can that thing punch out belt slots. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Mike516 Posted October 14, 2015 Report Posted October 14, 2015 Press set up. Have not put the plates on yet. Man can that thing punch out belt slots. Did you get the one you linked, the H-frame one? Quote
Members Red Cent Posted October 15, 2015 Author Members Report Posted October 15, 2015 Yes. Now looking to add the air over hydraulic. Boys and their toys. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Mike516 Posted October 15, 2015 Report Posted October 15, 2015 Yes. Now looking to add the air over hydraulic. Boys and their toys. Haha. I'm thinking about getting one of these. I was wondering if the H-frame is better than the A-frame version and if it is necessary to weld the plates to it or can you let them "float" as someone else alluded to. Quote
Members Red Cent Posted October 16, 2015 Author Members Report Posted October 16, 2015 Price and availability did it for me. I would think there is some of a mental struggle to weld the plates in place and give up some of the advantages of the plain press. However, I don't plan to push out bearing rings. I use c-clamps for universal joints There is very little pressure needed to punch belt slots through two pieces of 8-9 ounce leather glued together. Wouldn't want to try it on a finger though. Quote https://www.facebook.com/redcentcustomleather?ref=bookmarks http://www.redcentcustomleather.com/
Mike516 Posted October 17, 2015 Report Posted October 17, 2015 Gotcha thanks. I just got a 20% super saver coupon, so I'll have to take a look at what they have and how much plates are. Quote
Contributing Member JLSleather Posted October 17, 2015 Contributing Member Report Posted October 17, 2015 (edited) Actually, I used the term "float"... but nothing to do with pushing bearings, chubby girls, anything like that. These presses are far from precision machines -- they wander a bit on the slide. You can move teh top bar forward / backward some (try it and you'll see). These are not precision machined dovetails. So, to avoid having a die BURIED in the cutting surface on one end and barely getting through the material on the other end, I allow it to 'float". You "could" bring the press down on both upper and lower plates, and then weld them in place with some pressure on it. And if you're going to weld them in, that IS how I would recommend doing it... so teh plates come down parallel (ish) and aren't putting twisting pressure on dies that can be expensive. And weld the bottom bar support in place right then also. BUT like i said, the top may not come down quite the same way next time.. so that's no guarantee. Perhaps teh best way to describe it... maybe to look at Red's C-clamp. Does it have a ball-socket pivoting surface on one end of the screw? THAT is what I'm talking about.. allows the pressure to be in line even if the surface isn't .. quite. Perhaps "self-leveling" would be a better term? Edited October 17, 2015 by JLSleather Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Mike516 Posted October 17, 2015 Report Posted October 17, 2015 This thing has been marked down again! With the 20% super saver coupon, I'm not sure I can pass this up right now for like 120 bucks then figure out how I want to set it up later. The other idea is to buy one with the plate on it for 475 bucks plus shipping. But I just can't see doing that as I've never even used one. I think a trip to HF is in order. Quote
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