The Saddle Stitch Have Ruined All The Fun With Leather Working :(

[johnv474]

Those are stitches to the proud of. I can't explain the difference (why thinner works a little different), but I have experienced the same.

25B's suggestion is a good one too. I have tried that with success.

I suspect the true masters of this skill are versatile and adjust their style to the needs of the leather, the thickness, an personal preference. Nigel (whose stitch I admire) mention changing things up sometimes for different projects. Only machines blindly do the same thing repeatedly with no judgment. Hence, craftsmen can do some things machines can't. Hope this helped!

[DR80]

Those are stitches to the proud of. I can't explain the difference (why thinner works a little different), but I have experienced the same. 25B's suggestion is a good one too. I have tried that with success. I suspect the true masters of this skill are versatile and adjust their style to the needs of the leather, the thickness, an personal preference. Nigel (whose stitch I admire) mention changing things up sometimes for different projects. Only machines blindly do the same thing repeatedly with no judgment. Hence, craftsmen can do some things machines can't. Hope this helped!

Yes maybe the result are decent, and i know i have a little high demands on my results. I have only done this for a couple of months so i few mistakes here and there is inevitable.

Yes punch from both sides either as 25B or with portmanteau seems to work good, but it's not always possible to do with good results, like when i do a watch strap with padding, it's going to be complicated to punch from both sides. But with your tension angles i think i might get pretty good results on those straps. I appreciate your help, thank you.

[oltoot]

It will also help if you grip your work in the pony so that the stitch line is just barely above the edge of the jaws. Look at the pony and be sure that the tops of the jaws meet flush so that you can clamp the work well. That and the sharpest awl possible make conditions ideal so that consistent needle/thread handling will pay off with the desired result.

[9tpi]

Holes punched on right side of leather. Sewing toward you. Left needle in first, in top of hole. Right hand needle UNDER first needle yo form a cross. Pull first needle through, then pull up and away to right for a few inches to keep thread up in corner of hole. Rotate hand and insert right needle in bottom of hole, meaning closer towards you, while pulling the thread with left hand a little so you don't pierce. Grab second needle with left hand and pull through. Pull thread, with right hand going UP and away and left hand DOWN and toward you. Pull snug while looking at front stitch. Ignore tying knots or casting the thread for the moment. See what that does for you.

This is a great description and how I've always done it. It gives me decent results.

It will also help if you grip your work in the pony so that the stitch line is just barely above the edge of the jaws. Look at the pony and be sure that the tops of the jaws meet flush so that you can clamp the work well. That and the sharpest awl possible make conditions ideal so that consistent needle/thread handling will pay off with the desired result.

This is also key advise.

[ramrod]

Holes punched on right side of leather. Sewing toward you. Left needle in first, in top of hole. Right hand needle UNDER first needle yo form a cross. Pull first needle through, then pull up and away to right for a few inches to keep thread up in corner of hole. Rotate hand and insert right needle in bottom of hole, meaning closer towards you, while pulling the thread with left hand a little so you don't pierce. Grab second needle with left hand and pull through. Pull thread, with right hand going UP and away and left hand DOWN and toward you. Pull snug while looking at front stitch. Ignore tying knots or casting the thread for the moment. See what that does for you.

this is very close to my method, too. occasionally, i will have a run if stitches that are less than desireable - i just don't let it get too far before i pull them out and start over.

now, i'm a bit embarrassed by this question as i have sewn leather for about 15 years. but what is "casting the thread"? i know i've heard of the term before, but never really got it. also, what is the value of tying a know with each stitch?

[grmnsplx]

"casting" meant to make that little knot as you stitch.

So I put my left needle through first ant then my right needle in over that thread. Now with my right needle now protruding through to the left side I can choose to do the cast or not and just pull the thread. Usually I cast which meant I place the thread over that needle before I pull it. This way the thread goes through the loop.

This will make it more clear. Here you can see an example. Nigel Armitage stitches the first 6 stitches with no cast and the remaining with a cast.

[ramrod]

excellent! it's clear now. i've been casting on occasion and didn't realize what it was.

excellent post, grmnsplx. thank you

[DavidL]

I dont know if this will help any one but I tried it recently and it has worked for me. Maybe this could help if your as crazy as me You can read the simplified version if it is too long.

Recently I picked up billiards as a hobby, learning how to hold the pool cue correctly with the the pool cue in line with my elbow. When you hit the cue ball your essentially shooting from your shoulder and elbow perfectly straight. If your elbow and shoulder is following the same line as the cue then you can shoot straight granted this is your method of shooting. Whenever my elbow is off the line my odds of shooting straight lowers.

How this relates to saddle stitching is that the awl is your pool cue in this case and it should also be in line with your elbow in this method. The awl should be an extension of your elbow. Place the awl in palm of your hand gripping with the pink and index, not loose and not too tight. When you grab the needles and pull the thread the awl handle can move slightly (from your middle finger gripping needles) but the pinky and index finger must always push the awl haft into your palm. Now when you stitch your forearm is what determines the straightness (vertical and horizontal 90 degrees) , granted the awl is in line with your elbow, thumb and pointer finger gently on the ferrule. The objective is to keep the awl in the same position in your hand without thinking plus pivoting your elbow parallel to floor (stitching pony 90 deg. straight) pushing from the elbow not the palm. Pushing off the palm may cause the awl to shift.

IN SHORT: awl in palm of hand, pink and ring finger hold the awl. The awl should not move much when stitching or grabbing the needles so the pressure should be constant w/ the pink and ring finger. When you move the awl to the stitch mark adjust the awl slightly as it may have moved while you were pull the thread. Push from your elbow not your palm.

Take up the game of pool and you will understand exactly what im talking about. Hope this helps some one out on their stitching.

[SantaFeMarie]

Tried that before and got called a liar, so I just send it via PM anymore. If you search, it's in another thread on saddle-stitching I posted in...a few of them, I think...

I searched and couldn't find - any chance you could repost?

[25b]

I searched and couldn't find - any chance you could repost?

I'll send you a pm...