Fiebing's Light Brown Antique Paste Turning Grayish Green

[CastlesCustomLeather]

I use Fiebing's antique pastes all the time. Light brown was the color I used most often. So I decided to buy the big jar. I got it from shoeshineexpress.com because they are one of the few people that carry the entire line of Fiebing's products and will still ship ORM-D products to California addresses (and I live in CA). As I started using the antique from the big jar, I noticed that after a couple days, the light brown antique started turning a grayish green color. It almost looks like my project got all moldy. I tried it multiple times and got the same result. So I thought I must've just been sold a bad jar. I contacted the place I got it from and of course they totally blew me off. So I bought I small jar from Amazon and to my surprise, I'm having the same problem. The only thing I can think of is that I switch from using RTC to using Clear-Lac around the same time that I bought that big jar. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with it. It didn't occur to me until just now as I was writing this, so I haven't had the time to experiment with using RTC again with the "bad" light brown antique I have.

Anyways, I was just wondering if anyone has had a similar problem or if anyone has an answer to what the heck is going on with my light brown antique. Thanks in advance!

[Troy Burch]

I don't have a clue what causing that but I use clear lac over fieblings antique all the time and never had a problem. Clear lac will cloud up if put on too heavy in humid weather but a second light coat after its dry will fix that.

[Eddie1968]

i had similar issue once before with the water-based antique from tandy. I had several theories. the dye, the leather, the lighting. who knows. aggravating though. this folder was supposed to be antique brown. it turned out sorta antique green. i threw away the dye. havent had issue again.

[jrny4wrd]

If anyone figures it out please let us know.

[stelmackr]

One of the dyes that my friend Bill Churchill used changed colors on him. He found out that the use of oxycillic (sp?) prior to the dye caused a reaction. I don't remember the dye he was using, but if some preparation was used be for the dye, try without it.

Good luck,

Bob Stelmack

[CastlesCustomLeather]

No prep was used. It's antique paste that's changing colors in me, not dye. So like I said, only clear lac has been applied prior to the antique paste. I apply a coat of neatsfoot oil after tooling has been completed, then I let the oil dry/soak in for 24 hours. Then I apply clear-lac and let that dry overnight. Then Fiebing's antique paste. I wipe off the excess, then wait a few minutes and come back and buff out as much of the remaining paste as I can with a clean piece of sheepswool. Then I let the antique dry for at least a few hours. And then I deal with Fiebing's leather sheen aerosol spray.

Like I said, I'm only having this issue with the light brown antique. And I've used light brown in the past and didn't have this problem.

[BillinOK]

I have some new Fiebings Light Brown Dye (plain dye). I put it on a large piece of untreated Herman Oak craftsman 7 - 8oz. First coat went on ok, other than streaking a little. Let it dry, then a second coat. Right after that, it turned a dull greenish cast. I was sick! Took some Aussie conditioner and buffed a corner and it seemed to take it out. Any ideas?

Edited November 24, 2015 by BillinOK

[billybopp]

I've seen similar greenish or bluish colors ... It seems to be some component of the dye that floats to the surface, and usually happens when the dye it put on heavy. Not completely sure what it is or what causes it, but It does rub off, tho.

Bill

[terrymac]

Nature of the beast. I do not know why it happens, it just does. Clearlac, Tankote, or Tandys conditioner all seem to remove it just fine, and it looks ok

Terry

[BillinOK]

I talked to Springfield Leather. In my case (plain Fiebings dye), "The greenish glow/tint is happening because there is too much dye to absorb into the leather and the pigment that is left after the alcohol evaporates sits on the top and creates that situation. "

Also suggested using dye reducer. I don't know if you can use that with the pastes.

Fiebings leather site suggested cleaning the leather first with the glazer or denatured alcohol.

In my case, I may try the denatured alcohol and see if that helps any.

[tclaridge]

I used the same paste recently on a project-- In my case, it was the first thing I applied, directly to the leather on which I had done some tooling. I found the green color to appear where the paste was heavy in the stamping, and wasn't buffed out fully. However, since it was just a collar for my dog I let it go and hadn't thought about it till now... I will try what you mentioned, based on your conversation w/ Springfield Leather. Thanks!