How You Achieve A Nice Edge Finish With Fenice.

[DR80]

Of course i understand that people use different methods, but this works for me, and i have seen this question here quite often.

I'm working with vegetable tanned leather, so the method can be a little different with chrome tanned. And the grit of the sandpaper of course don't have to be exact what i use.

1. Sand the edge with some rougher paper like 80 and finish with 400.

2. Coat the edge with your first layer.

3. Let dry.

4. Burnish (i use a canvas cloth) (Don't use the same as you using with beeswax.) A electric creaser works here too (but i don't own one.)

5. Sand the edge very slightly with 400 and continue with a paper around 800-1200.

6. Coat the edge with your second layer of edge paint.

4. Let dry.

(5. If you sanded through the paint after the first coat (which you probably did.) then burnish again.)

6. Sand the edge, now the edge is probably good enough so you can use the 800-1200 grit. (No need for 400)

7. If the edge is smooth and nice then burnish it with a canvas cloth and beeswax. (I put beeswax on the cloth instead of the edge.)

Most times i repeat the process (paint, sanding) three or four times before i'm finished.)

The attached file is after two layers of paint. (two pieces glued together.)

It's hard to take good pictures without a proper camera. And the close up light reinforces the very small defects in the surface, but if you look close i have sanded through in on corners, so the edge would need one more layer.

If anyone has better idea's how to do this, maybe quicker or thinks i'm doing something wrong please tell.

The procedure should be about the same with Giardini.

I hope you understand me, although my english grammar is far from perfect.

Have a nice evening.

Edited November 13, 2015 by DR80

[RStevenson]

Thanks, I've actually been having a pretty hard time getting a nice even coat on my edges

[Tugadude]

That is beautiful edge work. Others might have different methods, but so long as the results are there, do your own thing. And your communication skills are great. Thanks for sharing!

[MonicaJacobson]

Very nice. Thanks for sharing your method.

[MY63]

Very nice edges thanks for sharing

[Matt T]

Good instructions. Those are pretty much the same steps I follow for the Giardini paint.

[DR80]

Good instructions. Those are pretty much the same steps I follow for the Giardini paint.

How are Giardini compared to Fenice. Still that "plastic/rubber feeling" I don't really like it. Going to try Vernis600 and Beraud, have you tried those?

[Redochre]

Thank you for taking the time too write this.

I've given up with this stuff, I can get a nice finish but the durability just isn't there.

[MonicaJacobson]

Redochre, what do you do instead?

[Redochre]

Redochre, what do you do instead?

Hi Monica.

Edge finishing is the bane of my existence! I haven't made anything to sell for months now simply because I'm not satisfied with things like the edges.

I've had 1 wallet comeback because the edge paint peeled off on the fold so I stopped using it after that.

So its back to good old fashioned hand finishing... Though I have just ordered a power burnisher for my dremel because I've given myself tennis elbow doing it by hand.

Too actually answer your question though... After 4 years I still don't know what I'm doing... So I've stopped selling until I do.

[MonicaJacobson]

This is the problem with getting past the beginner stage. If we could just be satisfied with achieving a reasonable saddle stitch, we'd all be way happier.

I guess that's why some products don't have a finished edge at all - at some level, it's almost better to have a completely unfinished edge than something that gets fuzzy almost at once. I've tried gum trag, I've tried wax/paraffin, I've tried resolene... I don't know. I'm selling anyway, because that's how I get money to continue experimenting.... but I rationalize it by saying that there's a price you pay for perfection, and I'm not asking that price.

Have you tried using fenice Edge Agent before edge paint? When I first tried fenice, I gave up pretty quickly because I was burnishing the leather first, then applying fenice. As it turns out, it doesn't stick to saddle soap. I think it was Ferg who posted about not burnishing at all first, and applying fenice edge agent as a first coat. It's worked way better. I still haven't gotten it down, but the adherence seems pretty good at this point. As an experiment, I put a single coat of fenice (not even with the edge agent) on an unburnished strap last year, and there's been absolutely no peeling. Granted, the wear on a strap doesn't compare to the wear on a wallet.

[DR80]

Since you worked with this paint longer then me, i believe you have a good knowledge of what makes the edge peel off. I have used one of my wallet for a month or so, and really tried to make the edge peel off but it looks perfect.

Don't take this wrong, but wrote down a few things i have found weaken the edge. (If no help for you it might be a help for other.

1. Burnishing before painting.

2. Sanding with to hith grit of sandpaper before first coat.

3. A large bevel on the edge. (It tensions the paint to much in the other corner when you fold)

4. Try to fold something before it has hardened. Like closing the wallet completely. I wait until the day after before i make a "hard" close of the wallet.

5. Not sanding the edge completely flat between layers. small craters where you haven't reach with the sanding paper, it will not bond good there.

Are there better edge paint out there? Yes. Are they easy to use? I don't know since i haven't tried them yet. But CT Beraud and Vernis600 are two of these. I think both are waxbased. Ct beraud are for sure. I will talk more about those edge finishes when i have tried them (need an electric creaser and wax spatula first.

Hi Monica.

Edge finishing is the bane of my existence! I haven't made anything to sell for months now simply because I'm not satisfied with things like the edges.

I've had 1 wallet comeback because the edge paint peeled off on the fold so I stopped using it after that.

So its back to good old fashioned hand finishing... Though I have just ordered a power burnisher for my dremel because I've given myself tennis elbow doing it by hand.

Too actually answer your question though... After 4 years I still don't know what I'm doing... So I've stopped selling until I do.

Edited November 16, 2015 by DR80

[Matt T]

I asked the guys at Giardini for tips on better adhesion to waxy leathers such as Chromexcel, and they suggested treating the edges with a 50/50 mix of water and rubbing alcohol. This will allow the paint to adhere better to the edges.

[kevinp]

just a question DR80 if you were edging a 48" belt how long would this take you, going through all the process ?

[DR80]

just a question DR80 if you were edging a 48" belt how long would this take you, going through all the process ?

I don't know really, but it wouldn't be a quick job. (Especially not if it's lined) And i wouldn't use the awl to coat the edge. And probably try Giardini instead since it's thicker. (From what i've heard) On a veg tan belt i would probably go for oil dye and burnish with a dremel. Good for me is that my primary interests is Wallets and watch straps

Have you tried leather hardener on lined belts? i think it would reduce the glue line a lot. I burnished a watch strap made with some relatively stiff leather and the glue line almost disappeared. And someone suggested this step for softer veg-tan. Leather hardener --> sand --> and regular burnish and dye.

Here is a pic of the watch strap. Just oil dye and burnished.

[kevinp]

Thanks for the reply its a very nice finish, I use dye then gum tragacanth and then buf to a high shine.

[ivenchw]

thx! how to avoid black line when two pieces glued together?

[DR80]

thx! how to avoid black line when two pieces glued together?

Depending on the type of leather i don't think you can avoid it, there will always be a little line there. But you can reduce it.

Don't glue all the way to the edge.

Let the glue dry completely.

If the glue isn't completely dry you will "push" the glue in between the two layers and it doesn't matter how much you sand and burnish.

I have found out that firmer leather reduces the glue line, so maybe try leather hardener on the edge, and sand it down before you burnish. Good luck, and don't forget to give us some feedback of your results.

[Tannin]

... there's a price you pay for perfection, and I'm not asking that price.

:D Excellent. I think I'll get them to put that one on my gravestone.

DR80 that watch-strap looks amazing.

Edited January 9, 2016 by Tannin

[JeffGC]

I’ve spent quite time perfecting my edge finishing. Now, I can produce an edge comparable to the best European manufacturers. I use this system on Hermann Oak “English” Bridle Leather or chrome-tanned leathers. When edging items made with traditional veg-tanned leather (holsters), I use more common burnishing methods.

In this post, I’ll address materials, tools and technique.

Materials:

I’ve settled on Fenice edge paint, specifically the Matte Plus product that is available from Campbell Randall. I prefer the higher viscosity (Plus) product. I have experimented with the primer but have not seen any advantage in its use. This material is extremely flexible and durable. When I first started using the product, I would apply and sand. Now, I use an electric edger. The Fenice product, when dry, is thermoplastic. In other words, it melts with heat. Often, this technique is called “Hot Glazing.”

Tools:

The European leather houses use electric leather creasers that are quite expensive. If you are interested in one, they are available from Fine Leatherworking or Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. I think Campbell Randall is now offering a less expensive option.

I have made my own and it works quite well. All of these parts were purchased from Amazon.

Power supply - 3 Amp Variac Variable Transformer, 300va Max, 0-130 Volt Output.

Handpiece – Dremel 1550 T2 Versa Tip Multipurpose Tool Kit or Weller SP25NUS Standard Duty LED Soldering Iron.

Tips – Brass Leather Soldering Iron Tips

I started with the Weller unit and discovered that the tip thread was 10-24. Although the brass tips are 4.5mm, I was able to thread them using a 10-24 die. The Weller unit worked okay. After using it for a few months, I purchased the Dremel tool. It is shorter and allows for better control. The tip thread, though, was slightly smaller (8-32). I carefully drilled the end with a #25 drill and tapped with a 10-24 bottoming tap. My existing brass tips fit perfectly.

Applicator – Craftool Pro Edge Dye Roller Pen (Tandy Item #3437-00). This tool is incredible. The Fenice edge paint just flows onto the edge. With a bit of experience, you can maintain a fine edge, even with contrasting colors.

Technique:

Most of my items are make with two layers of leather. My process is as follows:

1. Sand edges with an oscillating spindle sander (Harbor Freight). I use 1.5”x 4” 80 grit sanding sleeves from Rockler Woodworking.

2. Stitch.

3. Bevel edges.

4. Sand edges with sanding sponges (Harbor Freight). Course, medium and finishing with fine.

5. Apply two coats of Fenice edge paint and allow it to thoroughly dry.

6. Smooth edge with electric edger.

7. Apply final coat of Fenice edge paint.

Good luck!

Jeff

[DR80]

I’ve spent quite time perfecting my edge finishing. Now, I can produce an edge comparable to the best European manufacturers. I use this system on Hermann Oak “English” Bridle Leather or chrome-tanned leathers. When edging items made with traditional veg-tanned leather (holsters), I use more common burnishing methods.

In this post, I’ll address materials, tools and technique.

Materials:

I’ve settled on Fenice edge paint, specifically the Matte Plus product that is available from Campbell Randall. I prefer the higher viscosity (Plus) product. I have experimented with the primer but have not seen any advantage in its use. This material is extremely flexible and durable. When I first started using the product, I would apply and sand. Now, I use an electric edger. The Fenice product, when dry, is thermoplastic. In other words, it melts with heat. Often, this technique is called “Hot Glazing.”

Tools:

The European leather houses use electric leather creasers that are quite expensive. If you are interested in one, they are available from Fine Leatherworking or Rocky Mountain Leather Supply. I think Campbell Randall is now offering a less expensive option.

I have made my own and it works quite well. All of these parts were purchased from Amazon.

Power supply - 3 Amp Variac Variable Transformer, 300va Max, 0-130 Volt Output.

Handpiece – Dremel 1550 T2 Versa Tip Multipurpose Tool Kit or Weller SP25NUS Standard Duty LED Soldering Iron.

Tips – Brass Leather Soldering Iron Tips

I started with the Weller unit and discovered that the tip thread was 10-24. Although the brass tips are 4.5mm, I was able to thread them using a 10-24 die. The Weller unit worked okay. After using it for a few months, I purchased the Dremel tool. It is shorter and allows for better control. The tip thread, though, was slightly smaller (8-32). I carefully drilled the end with a #25 drill and tapped with a 10-24 bottoming tap. My existing brass tips fit perfectly.

Applicator – Craftool Pro Edge Dye Roller Pen (Tandy Item #3437-00). This tool is incredible. The Fenice edge paint just flows onto the edge. With a bit of experience, you can maintain a fine edge, even with contrasting colors.

Technique:

Most of my items are make with two layers of leather. My process is as follows:

1. Sand edges with an oscillating spindle sander (Harbor Freight). I use 1.5”x 4” 80 grit sanding sleeves from Rockler Woodworking.

2. Stitch.

3. Bevel edges.

4. Sand edges with sanding sponges (Harbor Freight). Course, medium and finishing with fine.

5. Apply two coats of Fenice edge paint and allow it to thoroughly dry.

6. Smooth edge with electric edger.

7. Apply final coat of Fenice edge paint.

Good luck!

Jeff

Thank you for this information.

I did this (see the picture from when i made it.) watch strap 3 month ago. The edge paint is Fenice, and no hot glazing just burnish with canvas. The watch strap is used daily since i made it and the edge is still durable and nice.

[Red Cent]

Water and a home made dowel rod in a stripped down grinder with a keyless chuck.. Leave as is, apply clear coat, dye, M&G,........whatever.

[Red Cent]

Ivenchw, you may not be compressing the leather. Get you a rolling pin and/or a one handed roller. The glue may not be dry. I sew after I glue and I machine sand some stuff but when I go for the shiny edge, I wait at least 12 -14 hours after application. Using a band sander, and after the edges get square you may see a white line. I take this off and come out with one piece of leather. Well, if you don't look too hard.

In the few years I have been on the forum, we have discussed the EDGE!! It is not necessarily what you use to obtain the edge, it is more often the leather you use. I have found that cheap per sq ft sides versus "premium" sides are stiffer and very dry. Man, does that stuff polish by simply running a wet rag on the edge and running it through the old dowel rod. Some of the premium sides were so supple they could be used for feet saver mats. And it was nigh impossible to get a shiny edge. That is when one reverts to Hide Pounder's beeswax/paraffin combo rubbed on and then, using the dowel rod to burn in the wax. It really works. One member called it the leather worker's Bondo.

By the way, getting that edge takes some studying and practice. It ain't just science, there is a little art.

[JeffGC]

I recently completed this belt following the procedure that I posted.

[DR80]

I recently completed this belt following the procedure that I posted.

Perfect finish on the edges, and a nice belt. How much time did you spend on painting the edges?.