Pfaff 545-H4-6/01

[Constabulary]

I would remove all that fancy stuff. It probably has a reason why this machine no longer is running in an industrial environment (where it for sure comes from). Probably no reason but usually a normal leather worker does not need these fancy things. But If you like these features keep them and rebuilt them if necessary, why not. But I personally don´t need that stuff. Too many things that could cause trouble and costs.

[Jome]

Tinker Taylor - yes that is a crack.

Uwe - I have attached pictures of the box with the power switch, I also opened it up and took pics. I have also added pictures of the control box and motor. I even took off the cover of the control box and took pics. The only other sticker I found was on the box with the power switch so I have added a pic of that too.

SARK9 - I have never owned a sewing machine before and I did not expect to get one with all of these features. No I do not need all of the features so even if I removed them but kept the pneumatic ones wouldn't that be ineffective because it all runs off the control box?

Constabulary - As far as I know, I have no use for all of these extra features, I am really understanding why Uwe said "for the novice leather sewing hobbyist it may be more of a setup and maintenance headache". Switching everything back to manual and getting a different servo motor is sounding very ideal.

KenG - That is what I am really considering doing.

Edited December 2, 2015 by Jome

[Uwe]

The pictures from inside the switch box want to tell the story about incoming power, except I can't quite make out the incoming wires. It's definitely expecting single phase 220V incoming power - that little transformer diagram seems to want ONE power line that carries 220V against a neutral white. What I can't tell is if the incoming 220V is ONE power wire against a neutral white, or between TWO power wires. This is important.

A voltage transformer like the one mentioned earlier may actually provide exactly what the machine is expecting, one power line carrying 220V against a neutral white.

A few more pictures would help: show more details of the incoming wires inside the box (is the green/blue/brown the incoming one and are there really only three incoming wires?), open the plug at the end of the power wire and show us which wire is connected to which pole inside that plug.

Edited December 4, 2015 by Uwe

[Jome]

Uwe, I have added two pictures of the power cord. One is of the end with the plug taken apart and the other picture is of the end that goes into the box. The brown, green and blue wires that my index finger is on are the only wires that make up the cord. I have also been talking to my uncle who used to be an electrician and he said if the motor says it is single phase, then that is what he believes it is.

And I have not had any success in finding manuals for the control box.

[Northmount]

Green/yellow wire is safety ground. Blue and brown are both hot. Your home service panel is 110-0-110. The 0 is neutral. Connecting to the two 110 v leads gives you 220 v. Your breakers for 220 are double or paired. So you basically connect to the double breaker, which is 220. And yes this is all single phase. A motor nameplate that says single phase is single phase (unless the nameplate was changed, and you can see if it has been tampered with).

If you are unsure about doing this bit of wiring, hire an electrician to fab your extension cords / adapters and to do the hookup.

Tom

[Uwe]

The only thing that makes sense based on those pictures is that the whole system uses single phase 220V. They just used a different plug to match whatever they had in the wall at the factory. Green is (should) always be Ground and there needs to be 220V between the blue and brown wires. There is no neutral wire (normally white). That's really all there is to it.

So one of those transformers should work fine I think. Just change the plug from the four-pronged one to a three pronged one to fit the transformer outlet.

A plug like this would be the right one, it's designed for 220V and 15A. The official name is NEMA 6-15P:

Edited December 8, 2015 by Uwe

[Northmount]

The 15 A plug is all that is needed. The 20 A plug is a twist lock, which don't pull apart as easily, so is nice to use. And as you can see, the 4th wire neutral wasn't used and does not need to be wired.

Tom

[Jome]

Thank you very much Uwe and northmount. I will switch out the plug and get a converter to get the machine up an running. That being said though, I still need to find a manual to be able to properly use the functions that this sewing machine is setup for, right? Otherwise whatever settings it was last used in will be what it is set at when I turn it on? I am guessing there is not a way to use just the motor without the extras?

Thank you!