Uwe Report post Posted January 1, 2016 Nothing like a good self-imposed deadline to get stuff done. I finally uploaded my operating guide video for the Durkopp Adler 205-370 to youtube this evening. I've invested the better part of a week in this thing. Allen Burkholder from Weaver Leather kindly reviewed the video twice at different stages of the production and offered advice. Happy New Year everybody! Cheers to a great 2016 and to hoping that somebody will find this useful: I plan to get a service/adjustment video done some time in January. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rharris Report post Posted January 1, 2016 Thank you for the video Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken G Report post Posted January 1, 2016 Outstanding video, and I don't even own one of those machines. It will still be helpful for the machines I do own. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
George3 Report post Posted January 2, 2016 Well done, kudos! I've been using a 205-370 for a while and I picked up a few tips from your video. You've made it easy to understand. Alan and Jackie at Weaver Leather are great to work with, they are a wealth of information, and Weaver stands behind their products 100%. Thank you Uwe, can't wait for the next video... George Unionlevelleather.com Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
llucas Report post Posted January 5, 2016 Outstanding! This video also helps with the refurbishing of my 205-374. I am very much looking forward to your video on timing the 205-370. Between you and Allen Burkholder, you have set a new standard for instructional videos for the 205-370! Well done! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyGreen3455 Report post Posted November 2 All-time video, many thanks for it! Just a couple of Q's from a newbie: Does it mean, that every time changing needle size up or down on the 205-370 I will need to replace a spacer as well? What if changing the needle to thinner/downward - will a machine sew with a thin needle + thin thread and a thicker spacer? Does it work the same way on all heavy duty barrel machines e.g. 441, CH8, 45K? Or it is particularly for 205-370 only? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eblanche Report post Posted November 2 This video is incredible! I wish I had one similar for when I purchased my machine. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TonyGreen3455 Report post Posted November 3 On 1/1/2016 at 4:49 AM, Uwe said: Nothing like a good self-imposed deadline to get stuff done. I finally uploaded my operating guide video for the Durkopp Adler 205-370 to youtube this evening. I've invested the better part of a week in this thing. Allen Burkholder from Weaver Leather kindly reviewed the video twice at different stages of the production and offered advice. Happy New Year everybody! Cheers to a great 2016 and to hoping that somebody will find this useful: I plan to get a service/adjustment video done some time in January. All-time video, many thanks for it! Just a couple of Q's from a newbie: Does it mean, that every time changing needle size up or down on the 205-370 I will need to replace a spacer as well? What if changing the needle to thinner/downward - will a machine sew with a thin needle + thin thread and a thicker spacer? Does it work the same way on all heavy duty barrel machines e.g. 441, CH8, 45K? Or it is particularly for 205-370 only? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted November 3 5 hours ago, TonyGreen3455 said: Does it mean, that every time changing needle size up or down on the 205-370 I will need to replace a spacer as well? What if changing the needle to thinner/downward - will a machine sew with a thin needle + thin thread and a thicker spacer? No. You can use a thinner needle than the spacer width. It's job is to protect the hook when using a large needle.that could actually damage the tip. However, if you regularly sew with smaller needles, like #18 to 22, you might get better results by using a shim for a #22 needle. This puts the hook closer to the thin needle and the thread loop. Thinner needles actually get deflected slightly to the left as you sew on most lockstitch machines. The thread tension pulls the needle away from the hook unless I back off both tensions and have a looser stitch line. The longer and thinner the needle, the greater the deflection from thread tension alone. 5 hours ago, TonyGreen3455 said: Does it work the same way on all heavy duty barrel machines e.g. 441, CH8, 45K? Or it is particularly for 205-370 only? My Cowboy cb4500 and all of its related class 441 machines do not use hook spacer shims. I set my hook to work with the largest needle I regularly use and leave it there. I compensate for needle deflection by tweaking my check spring settings to give more top thread slack, creating a larger loop for the hook on the upstroke, and by backing off the tensions when using thin needles and thread. I rarely get skipped stitches. But, when I do, I tweak the spring again, or loosen the tensions more, or slow way down (a hot needle burns and holds leather fibers and creates more friction). Sometimes, if the inside foot rises up a little early, the leather lifts with the ascending needle and that causes skipped stitches. It happens mostly when I use a left or right toe foot instead of the standard double toe foot. I did install a narrow feed dog and throat plate set purchased from one of our members, and am limited to a #25 needle as the largest size. If I need to use a #26 or 27 needle, I have to change back to the standard feed dog and throat plate. I also have an even smaller profile set from @Patrick1that maxes out with a #22 needle. I use it to hem jeans or sew on soft cloth or very thin leather. It only takes a couple minutes to swap the feeder sets. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
