Best Product For Resist Dye?

[Tom Biesinger]

So people, thank you for all of the help you have given me on the last belt project that i did... i am now wanting to do more with resist dyeing and have tryed using super sheen ... but i think its not very good... so please help me understand what works best and even if anyone can help me on the process maybe pick up some hints or tips .

Many Thanks, Tom

[keplerts]

I have used Sheriden RTC Resist and Finish with good results. I first put it on heavy with a sponge. Let it dry 4--6 hours and then put another coat on, but not as heavy, and let it dry 4-6 hours. I will then use an antique gel or a Hi-lite stain from Tandy.

Tom

[Colt W Knight]

Ive tried a few products with varying results, I will be interested to see what everyone says in this thread.

[snubbyfan]

I'm also interested, I want to try using some antiquing gel.

I'm thinking of trying a coat of two of Tan-Kote as a resist.

[NVLeatherWorx]

The best results that I have had for resisting are either Super Sheen (works best for water based products) or Clear-Lac (works for all products but gives best results with non-water based products). I have been using the Clear-Lac (used to be Neat-Lac) since the 70's and it has never let me down. The trick to all of these is to apply at least 2 coats before doing anything else and always make sure that it has had ample time to properly dry and set (typically 8 hours min.); always test your results on scrap first.

However, you cannot use any of these products or the resist technique with actual dyes as they are chemically engineered to penetrate through such things and get into the cells of the leather; there is no resist technique for dyes. Have worked with some of the other items such as Leather Balm and such and found that they are a great conditioner and protective coating for after you have done your coloring but not very good as a resist product.

[TomG]

I use 2 products exclusively. 95% of the time, I use full strength acrylic floor wax - Mop 'n Glo. I apply 2 -3 coats, allowing at least 4-6 hours between.. usually closer to 8+ hours.

I use Fiebings oil dye almost exclusively after the final dry. I use a sponge to apply quickly and evenly and a paper towel to dab up any excess on the resisted areas... mainly the grooves left from the stamps. Otherwise, if you have missed getting the resist down in the groove, the dye can leech under the resist.

Now, this method does not block 100% of the dye penetrating, but gives a contrasting effect. Different colors seem to give different results.

Now, for even better protection, you can use Woodlands Latex Rubber. Paint on 3 heavy coats, letting each dry totally. As with the wax, you must get down in the grooves, or you'll have ugly streaks and splotches. Once you dye, peel the rubber off and you;ll have pretty much bare leather underneath.

A couple of points.... Apply your dye quickly and as lightly as possible. The heavier the sponge is loaded with dye, the more bleed through you'll have. You just need to practice to see the effects of different techniques.

Next, you can not dip dye using thiese techniques.

Finally, if you dye the back side, you have a much greater chance of the dye showing under the resist.

I'll try to attach a photo or 2 here.

Good luck

[BeUnico]

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Edited February 9, 2016 by BeUnico

[BeUnico]

Interesting thread, I'm new to leather and loving the

all the info given on this forum.

I followed the advice above (NCLeatherworx, thanks!).

On the right, one good coat of supersheen and black gel antique. (Yuk)

On the left, two good coats of supersheen, 8 hours apart, then black antique.

Both finished with one coat of Tan-Kote

Not too bad though I don't really like the grey effect of the black gel antique.

[jtweatherford]

I like using Wyo Sheen which you can get from Sheridan Leather.
Like everybody else said, apply 1-2 coats and let it dry really well. I let mine dry over night.
Then I use an antique dye. I like Fiebing's antique paste. It gets in the cuts, tooling, and grooves very nicely. It also comes off the raised edges well. I've attached a picture of a wallet I just did with Fiebing's mahogany antique paste.

[YinTx]

Any ideas on what you can use as a resist if you don't like the plasticy/shiny look of resolene or clear-lac?

YinTx

[NVLeatherWorx]

Don't know what leather you are using but I have never had this type of shiny/plastic look from either of these products.  They may give the leather a slight sheen but no more than if you were to use these same products as your final sealer.  Guess you will have to shop around and experiment yourself at this point as these are the two "go to faithfuls" in our toolbox.

[mpe267]

On 1/31/2016 at 11:05 AM, snubbyfan said:

I'm also interested, I want to try using some antiquing gel.

I'm thinking of trying a coat of two of Tan-Kote as a resist.

Did experiment suing 3 coats of RTC, Tan Kote and Resolene to find the best resist for me,with dyed leather. IMO...RTC turned out the best. Resolene 2nd and Tan Kote was last which I was later was told by one person that it wasnt a resist. Other people say it is.I was impressed with RTC. This was my first time doing any resisting. I'll continue using RTC

 

Edited August 24, 2017 by mpe267

[Mark842]

On 10/21/2016 at 4:07 PM, YinTx said:

Any ideas on what you can use as a resist if you don't like the plasticy/shiny look of resolene or clear-lac?

YinTx

My go to resist is Liquitex Varnish's. The have satin and matte. Probably a ton of stuff that works but I've stuck with this through the years. Matte will not look glossy.

[alpha2]

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but what is RTC? I use Satinsheen and Resolene, applied with an airbrush. (The resolene, not the satinsheen).

[Bob Blea]

12 hours ago, alpha2 said:

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but what is RTC? I use Satinsheen and Resolene, applied with an airbrush. (The resolene, not the satinsheen).

Not stupid at all.  RTC is a product made by Bee Natural Leathercare.  The full name is RTC Sheridan Resist and Finish and it's used as both a resist for antique and a final finish for leather projects.  A lot of people swear by it.  I have a bottle but I haven't experimented with it yet.

[alpha2]

Thanks, Bob. I know you'll let us know when you get to trying it out.