Pfaff 1245 Help

[WoodsideCo]

Hey Everyone, I Was hoping someone could give me some guidance on the difference between the Pfaff 1245-706/47 and the Pfaff 1245-706/48. I am thinking about buying one from a friend but haven't been able to figure out if there any real differences or advantages /disadvantages from one machine to the next. A little back story, this fella bought one of each model of these machines from his brothers upholstery school when it shut down. They are both German made and he believes them to have been produced in 1979 and 1980, not completely sure. I have some pictures I can post if that would help. This would be my first machine purchase and want to make sure I don't buy a lemon or pass up on the better model. Thank you all for any and all guidance!

[shoepatcher]

WoodsideCo,

Pics would be great. The color of the machines will tell us a lot. I have a honey colored 1245-706/47. It uses the 190 needle system. Great machine. I think the

1245-706/48 might be a little bit heavier model. Be sure to include the total model number on the brass plate for each machine.

glenn

[WoodsideCo]

Hey Glenn,

Thank you for your reply, very appreciated. I attached some pics of both machines and the model number plates. Hope this helps!

1)

Having some trouble attaching photos hopefully this works!

[WoodsideCo]

Round 2 pics

[Uwe]

Now I have a crook in my neck and I still haven't seen the front of the cream colored one.

Both seem like very nice machines. Differences in specs between the two sub-sub-models ill be subtle I suspect (other than age - one might be a decade or two older than the other but newer isn't always better). Look up the specs for each machine online to compare their abilities. If you can't find documentation for one of them, get the other one! I have a feeling both machines are perfectly capable of performing really good work in the right hands.

Having access to both machines, you can best judge relative cosmetic and mechanical condition.

There's a nice little service video for the hammertone one:

http://sewing-machine.xyz/how_to_put_in_time_a_pfaff_1245_706_47_sewing_machine_tutorial.php

That guy does amazing upholstery work with his Pfaff machines.

[SARK9]

It could be a simple visual anomaly from all the blood rushing into my left ear, but the cream model *looks* like it may have the larger *M* style bobbin, which would be an advantage over what seems to be a *G* style (or its Pfaff equivalent) in the very nice grey machine. Check out the subclass specs to confirm, but its a definite plus if its true.

Update: All I see listed for the 1245's are M-style.... check the subclass to be sure.

-DC

Edited March 19, 2016 by SARK9

[WoodsideCo]

Ok thanks guys, I'm going to try to get my hands on the user manuals for each subclass and see whats what a bit more. Sorry about the pics! cant figure out how to get them to upload upright, Apologies to your necks!

[shoepatcher]

the Honey colored one which is the 1245-706/47 is like mine. It is the newer machine. It is a lot like mine. Both machines are big bobbin. If it was a smaller "G" bobbin, would be a 145 or 245. The hammer tone machine is a C-class machine, L means for sewing leather, P means 4 motion drop feed, M means safety clutch, N means 6 mm maximum stitch length. I would assume the honey colored one is the same. These machines may use a system #190 needle. Mine does. You can also set them up with #134-45 needles or even 135x17 needles. These are very good German made machines. All my years of experience has shown that anytime Pfaff and Adler made a machine in the same class, the Pfaff is usually smoother running. I know Joe Esposito will agree with me on that., i.e. Pfaff 1245 vs. Adler 267 for instance.

The hammer tone 1245 needs a good cleaning especially around the hook and bobbin case. I can see lint and dirt under the bobbin case gibs. The honey colored one may need it as well. All in all, a very good find If it was me, I would buy the honey colored one only because it is newer. Both seem to be very good machine and in good condition. Hell, buy both of them and sell one! Email if you have anymore questions.

glenn

[Sonydaze]

I have a 245/1245 owners manual on PDF, email me if you can use it.

gord(at)bound2please.com

[Hockeymender]

the Honey colored one which is the 1245-706/47 is like mine. It is the newer machine. It is a lot like mine. Both machines are big bobbin. If it was a smaller "G" bobbin, would be a 145 or 245. The hammer tone machine is a C-class machine, L means for sewing leather, P means 4 motion drop feed, M means safety clutch, N means 6 mm maximum stitch length. I would assume the honey colored one is the same. These machines may use a system #190 needle. Mine does. You can also set them up with #134-45 needles or even 135x17 needles. These are very good German made machines. All my years of experience has shown that anytime Pfaff and Adler made a machine in the same class, the Pfaff is usually smoother running. I know Joe Esposito will agree with me on that., i.e. Pfaff 1245 vs. Adler 267 for instance.

The hammer tone 1245 needs a good cleaning especially around the hook and bobbin case. I can see lint and dirt under the bobbin case gibs. The honey colored one may need it as well. All in all, a very good find If it was me, I would buy the honey colored one only because it is newer. Both seem to be very good machine and in good condition. Hell, buy both of them and sell one! Email if you have anymore questions.

glenn

Glenn is correct. Whenever Pfaff and Adler have produced machines in the same class the Pfaff is always the smoother running machine, at least that has been my experience. The Adlers are great machines, just not as smooth as the Pfaffs IMHO.

[WoodsideCo]

Thanks for all the help fellas, I'm pretty sure I'm going to pull the trigger on one of the 1245's, I'm very excited! Was wondering if anyone had recommendations for a good servo motor (make/model) to replace the clutch motor with? Also do you think a speed reducer is also a good idea with a new servo motor? Appreciate any and all feedback

[Hockeymender]

I would recommend the Goldstar GBSM 550S. I have four of these motors and have had them in service for over a year. So far I have not had a single problem with them. Being 550 watts they provide plenty of punching power, and the needle positioner is a huge help as well. Setting up the motors and positioners is very straight forward and only took about ten minutes. Here is a link to to product page for more info: http://store.allamericansewing.net/goldstar-gbsm-550-brushless-servo-motor-550-watt-34hp-with-needle-positioner

I have NO affiliation with the seller of these motors, just know what works well for me. 

[SARK9]

I've used a a few similar "servo" motors (branded by Consew), but all without the needle positioners....many of these imported offerings share so many similarities one might assume they are all made under the same roof. I am currently using 6 machines with these motors installed and have sold/traded off 4 other machines using older versions of the same motors. I personally haven't had one DOA or any other issues with the 10 or so I've bought....though the oldest one I have has only been in use for about 3 years. I do use a speed reducer on the 3 walking foot machines that are similar to the 1245, but run them direct on higher speed fabric machines like my Pfaff 483.

A couple of dings I would give the ones I use: They come standard with either a 90mm or 75mm pulley, which I usually replace with a 50mm. The more recent ones I've purchased now seem to start rather abruptly....still fine at about one stitch per second or less, but really POW! when they come on.

 

-DC

 

[WoodsideCo]

Joe, that motor looks very nice and I like that it has the needle positioner on it. Do you think there would be any reason to get a speed reducer with this or should be good to go with just the motor?

Sark- The repair guy in my area stocks and recommended a motor that sounds just like what you've been using. I think he said it was a "family" brand and its 3/4HP with 550 W. He said something similar about feeling like a lot of these motors made in china are almost identical other than the sticker on the front. From what you have said and others as well these seem like a good option, my only concern is the abrupt start. Ive worked on a juki that had a similar type of jump off the line feel to it and it kept throwing me off, I'm sure with  a few days of working on it it would not be a problem though.

[Hockeymender]

I have two with speed reducers and two without. Unless you are going to sew some very thick materials, or need to run at a super slooow speed I would say no speed reducer is required. These motors can be set for slow start, just to address the other issue mentioned. 

[WoodsideCo]

9 minutes ago, Hockeymender said:

I have two with speed reducers and two without. Unless you are going to sew some very thick materials, or need to run at a super slooow speed I would say no speed reducer is required. These motors can be set for slow start, just to address the other issue mentioned. 

Ok that makes sense. Sorry for all these questions, really appreciate everyone's feedback. About the needle positioner system, once it is installed correctly is it easy to switch from the needle ending in the up position and then back to the needle ending in the down position in the material? Meaning could I do a run of stitching with the positioner in the down position and then flip a switch and have it end in the up position on the next run of stitching? Not sure if that's how these systems work, don't have much experience with them. As far as install is it pretty much plug and play? Would I need to order a different sized belt or does the motor come with a new belt that will fit the 1245? Thanks again!

-Sam

[Hockeymender]

Needle position is controlled by the pedal. There a several different settings available. Mine are set to stop needle down every time I stop sewing. To raise the needle, I just "heel back" on the pedal. Setup is pretty straight forward. You can select maximum speed, needle position, slow start and some others I've forgotten. As for the belt, the motor position is very adjustable, however that may not mean you will have to get a longer or shorter belt depending on your setup. 

[SARK9]

Just to clarify....Re: The Consew branded "servo" motors....(CSM1000). The more abrupt one is the latest one I bought...it has the "slow start" option 0-9 codes in the typical *all your base" instruction sheet....I can't really tell configuring it has any affect on the sort of sudden pow! this motor has at start.

Although it has the same model number on the control unit, it is obviously different than the earlier CSM1000 I have, which is quite well mannered. This is the abrupt one:

 

 

 

....and this is the slightly older one that starts perfectly smoothly:

 

Both are sold as CSM1000's.....

 

-DC

 

 

[dikman]

I have three servos (from China) and the control housing is the same shape as SARK9's (top photo), only difference I can see is the markings on the two buttons. I also bought a needle positioner but don't use it. For high speed stitching it's probably quite useful, but because I run at very slow speed I found it was more trouble than it was worth. With mine there are two main settings that can be adjusted (internally), start speed and max speed.

[WoodsideCo]

Thanks for the replies on the motors guys, I have a lot to think about. I was wondering what the max thickness of leather is that you have been able to sew consistently is on your 1245's? Also, I was hoping I could get some input on buying one of these pfaff's vs. a new machine under warranty such as the consew 206-rb5, keep in mind this is my first machine. I see positives/negatives of both options, but was wondering if you were buying your first machine and had these options what direction you would go?  The way I figure it after I replace the clutch motor, get the machined serviced etc, its going to be within a couple hundred bucks of that new consew, or another newer similar machine. What route do you think I should take?

[WoodsideCo]

going to try uploading the pics again after the website update (which I think is pretty awesome btw, great job!)

[Uwe]

In general, an original machine in good condition is worth about the same as a new chinese aftermarket copy. Five years from now that used original will STILL be worth about the same (whether a good used original is 20 or 25 years old makes no difference). The shiny new aftermarket/chinese machine will loose a third of its value the moment it arrives at your door steps. Five years from now it will be worth half, if you're lucky.

You also have to be willing to pull a machine away from the wall so you can see the front, and tilt it back so you can see the underside.

[SARK9]

100% opinion here, so that is all its worth.

I have a Consew 206RB5 with servo, which I bought new, and it is really a pretty good machine for what I do with it...the base design is very popular and widely in use, and shares many accessories and repair parts with the legacy machines, making most of the parts extremely affordable in price. I've not had any issues with mine at all, and it performs very well.

That being said, I'll add-  The reason I bought the new 206 in the first place was because there was not a Pfaff 1245 in good condition available anywhere within drivable mileage when I had to SOGOTP. If I had been offered a 1245 in known good condition at the time, the choice would have been a no-brainer to me personally. I'd spend a bit more and take some small risks for the Pfaff. Just sayin'.

 

-DC

 

[dikman]

I don't know anything about the 1245, but Pfaff parts can be expensive and may not be as readily available as the Consew's.

[TomG]

On 3/25/2016 at 11:57 AM, SARK9 said:

 

 

This is the one I have/