My Tandy Shop Says Resolene Is Terrible

[Bodean]

I just bought a big bottle of the pro resist by Fiebing's. Haven't used it yet, but was wondering if it is the same as resolene? Sure looks like it.

[alpha2]

Once I learned to first SERIOUSLY dry and buff any die or stain, or paint for that matter, I've used it exclusively. If you don't dry and buff before finish, it can and will remove at least some of the color. I spray it on in multiple coats to prevent the "fish-eye" you can get with other methods of application. 

[Sheilajeanne]

The knowledge of the staff varies from store to store. I've found the Tandy store I deal with has some VERY knowledgeable people. The guy who teaches the leatherworking classes is by far the most knowledgeable, and he does NOT like Resolene. He said it peels and cracks, and recommended Tandy's Super Sheen.  But I'm willing to bet Resolene only has that problem if you don't dilute it.

He's not just trying to push Tandy products, though. He told me Fiebing's Pro dye was by far the best, when I was having trouble with Tandy's Eco Flo products. And he was right.

[strathmoredesigns]

I'm also a diluter and airbrusher. It has worked well in my experience. If you think you might be using Resolene, or even acrylic paint with some regularity, an airbrush might be worth looking into. I have an Iwata that cost about $300 for both the brush and the compressor. A lot of people on this forum also swear by Harbor Freight brushes that probably cost a lot less though. And if either of those aren't in the budget right now, you could also try something like this: https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/preval-power-unit. It's not quite as smooth and controlled as a real airbrush, but it's not as heavy as paint brush or a dauber either.

Also, if you want a good overview of finishes, this video is fairly helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyTg_hfpNUM

Edited November 4, 2017 by strathmoredesigns

[mikesc]

If you want to use an airbrush ..paasche VLS
http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/77951-airbrush-compressor-question/?do=findComment&comment=516003

What you will be spraying is water soluble ( actually it isn't soluble, it is more "miscible", hence the "milkyness" ) acrylic resin..

Poly(methyl methacrylate-co-ethylacrylate)2-propanol..is what is in tandy and fiebings and a whole host of other things..including a clear sealer for sheetrock sold in Europe as "stop fond".

msds for resolene ( tells you exactly what is in it )..msds for anything tells you way more than what is on the label..or what the person behind the counter selling it or its competitor product knows about what is in there.

HTH :)

Btw ..if you buy this kind of resin as sheetrock sealer for use to seal the sheetrock prior to painting it. you'll pay way less per litre than if you buy it with a fancy brand name for sealing leather or for "varnishing" acrylic paintings

What you look for is "Poly(methyl methacrylate-co-ethylacrylate)2-propanol"..and "water based"..one could use a more volatile "petrochemical" type solvant for it as well, ( and some products do just that ) but water based is safer.

Edited November 4, 2017 by mikesc

[alpha2]

4 hours ago, Sheilajeanne said:

The knowledge of the staff varies from store to store. I've found the Tandy store I deal with has some VERY knowledgeable people. The guy who teaches the leatherworking classes is by far the most knowledgeable, and he does NOT like Resolene. He said it peels and cracks, and recommended Tandy's Super Sheen.  But I'm willing to bet Resolene only has that problem if you don't dilute it.

He's not just trying to push Tandy products, though. He told me Fiebing's Pro dye was by far the best, when I was having trouble with Tandy's Eco Flo products. And he was right.

I used to use Super Sheen exclusively, before I went to Fiebings spray before moving to Resolene. Anything will crack if applied too thick, and without drying between coats. To make the blanket statement that Resolene will crack, doesn't hold up to the many thousands of saddle makers and leatherworkers that use it exclusively, without it cracking. Light coats. Numerous coats. Dry and buff...repeat. It's leather science, not rocket science!

[mikesc]

I used to use Super Sheen exclusively, before I went to Fiebings spray before moving to Resolene. Anything will crack if applied too thick, and without drying between coats. To make the blanket statement that Resolene will crack, doesn't hold up to the many thousands of saddle makers and leatherworkers that use it exclusively, without it cracking. Light coats. Numerous coats. Dry and buff...repeat. It's leather science, not rocket science!

It is actually "applied organic chemistry". ;)

Agree with you entirely :)..it is all about how the chemistry ( or chemical product ) is applied.

Edited November 4, 2017 by mikesc

[alpha2]

No problem! I have the same lack of formal education in each of those! 

Wait, there was that one time that applied organic chem might have been in play...Nah! Probably not!

[YinTx]

On 11/4/2017 at 7:58 AM, Bodean said:

I just bought a big bottle of the pro resist by Fiebing's. Haven't used it yet, but was wondering if it is the same as resolene? Sure looks like it.

I have heard that it works well, and I have been curious to try it out myself, so I'd like to live vicariously through you if I may.  Since you now have it, please let us know how it works out, and post photos along the way!  Much appreciated!

YinTx

 

[rtesterman]

Not trying to revive a dead post, but I have been using full strength Resolene through my airbrush with pretty stellar results. Should I be diluting it to 50/50 with water to spray through my airbrush? I also read where you are supposed to dilute dyes 50/50 with denatured alcohol when using them, but I have used them with great success when using them full strength. What is the right way to spray either one? Any help is appreciated.