Loban Report post Posted May 5, 2016 (edited) Hey, I'm Dmitry! Two weeks ago, I took the video as I antiquing my leather works using antique-paste Fiebings. Maybe it will be someone interesting. Edited May 5, 2016 by Loban Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boriqua Report post Posted May 5, 2016 great video. I have always used the Fiebing's antique acrylic but you have me wanting to try the paste and see if the effect is different. I was surprised at the amount of lacquer you put at the end. I have used Lacquer from a spray can sparingly and while I love the super shiny finish on some things I have had it crack a couple of times on finished goods and have since never used it again. I would think it would be more prone to crack sitting on top of tan cote. Obviously you beat it so I must have been doing something wrong. Thanks for the vid Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boriqua Report post Posted May 5, 2016 Ok now after watching three more times I have another question. WAAAYyyyyy back in the day I tried the paste and it was ... well ... paste. When you apply with the brush in your video it is far looser than I remember. Are you thinning it with something? I have already ordered a jar so I am excited to try again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Loban Report post Posted May 6, 2016 Hey. I agree that it was a bit too much finish. but one thing has remained behind the scenes, and I cut it - I wiped the excess of finish with a piece of sheepskin wool. The result was good, not too glossy, not sticky. The paste in this video not thinned. Glad you liked the video Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gigi Report post Posted May 7, 2016 I liked the video too, thanks for sharing! Do you buff the leather when dry after each step? I usually do. I use antique over all, not only on the tooled areas. I don't always use dye outside of the tooled area, but maybe is a good idea, because the dye goes deeper and it is better than just antiquing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted May 7, 2016 I was always taught and told to use supershene as a resist, not tankote as it is too thick. Did you thin it with water or anything first? Although after seeing your tooling work, I think I'll give up now, your work is fantastic Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted May 7, 2016 I use Mop N Glo as resist, works great if applied just right and let it dry. Plus its cheap and readily available. By the way, nice tooling. Wish mine was that nice. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted May 7, 2016 10 minutes ago, Colt W Knight said: I use Mop N Glo as resist, works great if applied just right and let it dry. Plus its cheap and readily available. By the way, nice tooling. Wish mine was that nice. What ratio do you use to cut it? I've heard everything from 10:1 water:MnG to 10:1 MnG:water. Or do you use it straight? And no, I'm not wanting to start the argument about MnG being for floors vs Tankote being for leather Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted May 7, 2016 (edited) 15 minutes ago, Halitech said: What ratio do you use to cut it? I've heard everything from 10:1 water:MnG to 10:1 MnG:water. Or do you use it straight? And no, I'm not wanting to start the argument about MnG being for floors vs Tankote being for leather I just use it straight. I was thinning it 50/50, but it sprays better and doesn't drip if I spray it straight through the airbrush. It comes out kinda glossy if you spray it straight, but if I want a matte finish, I spray it on heavy, let it set a minute or two, then wipe it with a paper towel. Comes out great. I haven't experienced any negatives using Mop N Glo Edited May 7, 2016 by Colt W Knight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Halitech Report post Posted May 7, 2016 If it sprays fine straight then it must be decently thin to start with. I'll have to pick some up sometime soon and try it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted May 7, 2016 (edited) I recently bought a heated ultrasonic cleaner for my airbrushes, and I am trying to only use products that will clean up with warm water and a spoon full of dawn dish soap. Fiebings pro oil dye, Angelus leather paint and and mop n glo all clean up on the 8 minute setting. Edited May 7, 2016 by Colt W Knight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted May 8, 2016 The only downside to using Mop-n-glo that I know of is that it does contain a detergent. Some might argue that the detergent will, over time, degrade or otherwise negatively affect the leather. I haven't seen that happen yet, but after using MnG for a year or two, I went back to Resolene. It has a UV blocker in it, and since I was playing with some acrylics at the time, I wanted to avoid the detergent AND try to protect the vividness of the acrylic colors (Angelus). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
immiketoo Report post Posted May 8, 2016 15 hours ago, Colt W Knight said: I recently bought a heated ultrasonic cleaner for my airbrushes, and I am trying to only use products that will clean up with warm water and a spoon full of dawn dish soap. Fiebings pro oil dye, Angelus leather paint and and mop n glo all clean up on the 8 minute setting. How much was this, and does it work well with acrylic paint? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted May 8, 2016 9 minutes ago, immiketoo said: How much was this, and does it work well with acrylic paint? I gave 80$ on Amazon Prime, but come to find out they sell this same machine under a lot of brand names. Harbor Freight carries it, and you can uze thise 20% and 25% off coupons on it. I use Angelus leather paint which is a water based acrylic, and this machine does a great job cleaning my Iwata airbrush. If its caked on, I run it through the 8 minute heated setting and i may have to wipe the tip off with a papert towel. If i put it in the cleaner right after use, it cleans it right off. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted May 8, 2016 I have a similar ultrasonic that I use for cleaning airbrushes. Its awesome. My process after use is to first flush the airbrush with a mix of water, vinegar, and a drop of dish detergent. Then disassemble the airbrush and put in the ultrasonic with a little industrial "micro" cleaner. Drain the dirty water and rinse with clean water. So far no clogs! Bil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
immiketoo Report post Posted May 9, 2016 awesome. I'll have to pick one of those up! Thanks, guys! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bob21804 Report post Posted May 9, 2016 I have that same ultrasonic cleaner, (bought at Harbor Freight for around $50 with a coupon, if I remember right) but hadn't even thought about using it to clean my airbrushes. Do you use it every time, or just occasionally? I'm new to airbrushing, but haven't had any problems with clogging yet. I've just been spraying a bit of water and alcohol mixture through it each time before I put it away. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billybopp Report post Posted May 9, 2016 I use mine every time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted May 9, 2016 (edited) I use mine everytime. Be sure to get one with a plastic basket, not a tray Edited May 9, 2016 by Colt W Knight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
