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Rannoch

Nigel Armitage's log

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Do any of you use a log like Nigel Armitage (see "Basic Saddle Stitch" thread)?  If you have, any advice on what kind of wood to use, length, width, finish would be welcome.  A madrona fell down in my woods, so a section of that should work well.  Has anyone used madrona for this?  How about broad leaf maple or red alder?  The plan is to cut a foot wide section about 30 inches long, 90 degree angle at both ends, bark it, plane the best end, carve a shallow bowl in the floor end so it won't wobble, polish the working end with bee's wax.  

What am I missing?  Do I need to let it dry for a period of time?  What about forging an iron ring around the top to keep it from splitting as it dries?

thanks for your help

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I have one, or had as its still in the states.  Its an ash tree.   All I did is sand the top of mine and I used it for bag punches etc.  This piece of log is so big I doubt it will ever split, but I suppose you could bind it.  I started using mine right away, and it dried as I used it.

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I can speak from my general knowledge about wood. Thus while drying it can crack radialy (from bark to center) due to the gradient in humidity inside it. The side surface dries faster and contracts, while the core remains the same (just like in wet forming) and this will cause the cracking.

The best prevention if you want to use it without good drying, would be to oil thoroughly the side surface, I would recommend linseed oil. Give 2-3 coats, one coat per day to allow the oil to penetrate the wood. If the oil won't absorb in the wood well, just wipe it with a cloth and try again in a few weeks.

Rings won't help much if the wood is not dry, because by drying it will contract. Only if you want to do some heavy hammering on it they would be necessary, as this can lead to cracks also. But for this I would suggest to use adjustable rings and tighten them periodically.

I don't have work experience with any of the trees mentioned by you, but the red alder is a sleek bark tree. If you can get a section where the bark is in good condition, just leave the bark on for at least one year and should prevent cracking of the core, acting as a binding.

Maple though may not look as good with the bark on and for it and for others, if you'd like them without bark from beginning, I suggest going for a root section or one with a lot of side branches. The entanglement of the fibers in root and branching areas give the wood enough strength not to crack easily, either from drying or hammering. But this will come at the cost of extra work in shaping. The same things that make them desirable make them harder to work.

From strength point of view, madrona would be the best. Being a lot denser and harder than the others should keep the flat surface in good condition longer than the others.

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6 hours ago, Rannoch said:

A madrona fell down in my woods, so a section of that should work well.  Has anyone used madrona for this?  How about broad leaf maple or red alder?  The plan is to cut a foot wide section about 30 inches long, 90 degree angle at both ends, bark it, plane the best end, carve a shallow bowl in the floor end so it won't wobble, polish the working end with bee's wax.  

Avoiding cracks will be the main issue. If trees are felled when the sap is rising, then they can blow themselves apart with sap pressure. If that doesnt happen, they can still crack when they're drying. It can be harder than it sounds just getting a nice, solid section of tree. Still, you've got nothing to lose. Give it a go. Take a friend though, a foot wide section 30 inches long will be very heavy. I got a section of birch a few years back as a stand for my anvil, it was a maul getting it into my truck. I debarked it and planed the ends, it was nice. A couple of weeks later it had split in half drying, I could have cried.

Still, If it doesnt work out you can always go to a yard and buy one.

Edited by Martyn

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Coat both ends with something (like tar or similar product) to stop the ends drying out before the rest dries.  Moisture wicks up the grain to the ends.  Stop that and it dries slower and less risk of cracking and splitting.  I have a neighbor that does a lot of woodturning.  He puts the logs (cut to lengths he uses) into a box full of sawdust and wood shavings.  Slows down and equalizes the drying process.  Needs to be stirred up every few days to get rid of some moisture and to bring some fresh air in.

Tom

 

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Why do you want to use a log in the first place?

Nige's always seemed a bit clumsy to me. The tool loops are a nice feature but don't hold nearly all the tools I need. The surface is also pretty small for many of my projects and you really have to have a workbench as well anyway (Nige does). Finally, I have a bad back and wouldn't want to have to hover over a log like that very long.

Don't get me wrong. I have learned volumes from Nigel and am deeply indebted to him not only for his videos but his responsiveness with emails, etc. He's even been so generous as to help me via Skype (before he became famous). He's the reason I can saddle stitch well. In fact, my mantra is, "WWND" (What Would Nigel Do).

But this is one thing that Nige does that I don't get. Maybe he'll read this and chime in.

A well-lit, nice, solid workbench with a good-sized chunk of marble or granite flush-mounted into its surface and a tool rack along its back is as near perfect a leather workbench as I've come across. I only wish I could say it was mine!

I will admit, though, that a leatherworker could do a lot worse than emulating everything Nigel Armitage does down to the last detail!

At least that's the way I see it.

Michelle

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I have also considered using a full log, but I have limited space, so needed something a bit more flexible.   Also a nice solid workbench just wasn't going to fit anywhere.

My dear hubby made me a 1 foot square by about 2 foot tall table out of 4" x 4" square fence posts (you could balance an elephant on it without fear of damage, if you are into balancing elephants).  Then a very nice tree feller fella handed in two wood 'rounds' about 20+" diameter, by 8+" deep, and I use one of them on top of my little table.

I can pound away on it, and nothing moves, unless I want it to.   I also have my bit of granite on it for stamping, and just swivel the round, round when I need to use it.  I have little racks fitted around the table underneath for my most used tools and mauls.

As to drying, my logs were pretty well sodden when I got them, so I experimented a bit.   One of them I placed in a warm dry area, and when it dried out, it split enough for me to get a fist into the crack.   The other one I left under a dry porch in my garden for several months, and no problem so far with it.

 

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Morning folks, the log... a subject of many debates and probably the most popular item in my workshop.
I shall begin by stating it is not a complex item or as Michelle states, a bench or bench substitute.
The ethos behind it is nothing more than a large wooden anvil, a pounding block if you will.

The core of the block is based solely on the premise that necessity is the mother of invention.

My workshop is in my home, I have other dwellers in my home, much to my chagrin... I have tried changing the locks but that didn't work.

They bitch about the banging.
So the log absorbs a massive amount of the noise when I am banging.
Sometime I bang really hard just to prove how important and manly I am.

What you can't see is the 32 inch TV on the opposite wall... If I attach my clam cleverly to my log, I can face into the room when stitching small items and watch telly.

In addition to this, I can take it outside on a nice day and work in the sun.

It is not my bench.
It does often appear in videos that it is my bench but this is a space issue, it is easier to have the camera in front of me and work on the log so you can see what I am doing.
when I work on my bench, you cannot see so well.

It is not complex, don't over think it, it is just for hitting stuff on.
The loops are just to hold what tools I need at that time.
If i had a bigger workshop with a concrete floor, i probably wouldn't have it.

It has become quite invaluable for teaching though, as I can sit facing the student and we can work over issues together over the log.
It is a good place to put coffee and biscuits. It is also the only tool in my workshop i have not yet lost under all the tat i create when i'm working. 

It is a fun and useful thing but by no means vital to any workshop.
It's name is Dave, Dave is made of Cherry and is 11.5 inches across and 30 inches high.
Dave does not have an opinion on world peace, does not want to work with children or have any political views... he also has a phobia of elephants and dogs peeing on him.
Dave is cracked... as is his owner.

 

Hope that helps

Nige

Dave has his own Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Davethelog/

Edited by Dangerous Beans

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Now, if Dave could conquer his fear of elephants, and allow one to balance on him, that may just go some way to closing that crack.

And don't worry about trying to explain said elephant, as no-one ever mentions the elephant in the room.

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Nigel that is one nice looking workbench behind Dave. 

 

Logs like this as mentioned are a pretty valuable addition for punching holes and various other task. Even if you dont have to be quiet. They are cheap/free in most cases. Using it like Nigel also acts like a cutting board in a way because of the grain orientation which helps prevent dulling of your tools. Even with the harder woods although you dont want too hard of a wood. Most any of the fruit trees, maple, walnut, oak, madrona would all be good choices. 

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Thanks Nigel and it is nice now to be able to put a name to a (cut) face.

Say hi to Dave for us.

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On Saturday, June 18, 2016 at 5:57 AM, Dangerous Beans said:

Morning folks, the log... a subject of many debates and probably the most popular item in my workshop.
I shall begin by stating it is not a complex item or as Michelle states, a bench or bench substitute.
The ethos behind it is nothing more than a large wooden anvil, a pounding block if you will.

The core of the block is based solely on the premise that necessity is the mother of invention.

My workshop is in my home, I have other dwellers in my home, much to my chagrin... I have tried changing the locks but that didn't work.

They bitch about the banging.
So the log absorbs a massive amount of the noise when I am banging.
Sometime I bang really hard just to prove how important and manly I am.

What you can't see is the 32 inch TV on the opposite wall... If I attach my clam cleverly to my log, I can face into the room when stitching small items and watch telly.

In addition to this, I can take it outside on a nice day and work in the sun.

It is not my bench.
It does often appear in videos that it is my bench but this is a space issue, it is easier to have the camera in front of me and work on the log so you can see what I am doing.
when I work on my bench, you cannot see so well.

It is not complex, don't over think it, it is just for hitting stuff on.
The loops are just to hold what tools I need at that time.
If i had a bigger workshop with a concrete floor, i probably wouldn't have it.

It has become quite invaluable for teaching though, as I can sit facing the student and we can work over issues together over the log.
It is a good place to put coffee and biscuits. It is also the only tool in my workshop i have not yet lost under all the tat i create when i'm working. 

It is a fun and useful thing but by no means vital to any workshop.
It's name is Dave, Dave is made of Cherry and is 11.5 inches across and 30 inches high.
Dave does not have an opinion on world peace, does not want to work with children or have any political views... he also has a phobia of elephants and dogs peeing on him.
Dave is cracked... as is his owner.

 

Hope that helps

Nige

Dave has his own Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/Davethelog/

Hahaha, so, it is just a log. I enjoy your  humor, Nigel.

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Interesting.  Something else I'll have to look into. Thanks.

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