plinkercases Report post Posted July 2, 2016 Other than the end of a log as has been discussed elsewhere what do folks us under there work when punching/dye cutting? My old Tandy poundo boards/matts are at the end of the duty cycle and I think there must be a better alternative to replace them with. A forum search came up with things like: redsheet, Cow/horse stall matt Industrial belt rubber section Any thoughts or experience is appreciated thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Glendon Report post Posted July 3, 2016 HDPE plastic sheets.. Between a 1/ 4th to an inch thick works great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted July 3, 2016 Thanks I will check around. Do you cut on it as well or just for the punching and under the tooling slab? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Colt W Knight Report post Posted July 4, 2016 I have some HD mine belt (coal conveyor belting) and it dulls tools quickly. A tree stump makes a great punching surface because you can easily remove the tool because the end grain. Once it gets worn, you can cut the top slice off and start fresh. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted July 28, 2016 These are great and can be sanded when they get rough. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted July 28, 2016 I just tried to stall matt and it is has too much bounce for punch work... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JMWendt Report post Posted July 28, 2016 I use a rubber mat about a half inch thick on top of a 2" thick maple cutting board. The punch can go into the rubber and remain sharp and undamaged. The rubber mat is similar to what you'd find on a gym weight room floor or a horse trailer. Works very well. Have used it for 20 years plus now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted July 28, 2016 sound like a stall matt. I think I will try again and place it on my granite block.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MADMAX22 Report post Posted July 28, 2016 I agree with Colt that a tree log on end basically acts like a good solid one piece cutting board. The end grain of the wood will not fight the tool (like a board on its side does), its very solid for a cutting surface, and renewable by cutting a thin layer off the top. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Red Cent Report post Posted July 31, 2016 http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200660250_200660250 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
plinkercases Report post Posted August 1, 2016 Colt and MadMax, S stump may be ok fro stationary work but I used the poundo in different sizes and shapes along with shoe lasts and steel pieces to punch on awkward places/paces and also I don't have floor space for stump or even a slab of tree to lift onto bench.... maybe a slab... I could look into that for when I need more area... Red cent... I have an arbour press but those look excellent... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
krusatyr Report post Posted August 27, 2017 (edited) Three considerations for efficient punch and cut board: 'self healing', non-dulling of tool edge and resistance to force. A stump is great per above comments but 1/2" thick, custom sized HDPE poly (30" X 60", or larger) board over a hardwood table top is better for cutting large patterns. There are several wholesale suppliers of large custom HDPE boards in 1/2", 3/4" and 1" and in several colors. I like red and black. Edited August 27, 2017 by krusatyr Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
480volt Report post Posted August 27, 2017 This is practically the same as a stump, but I use a 6"x18"x42"-ish piece of glue-lam beam standing on end. No problems with sap, cracking or knots. I use it standing, where I can get nice and close to the work. I use HDPE where that doesn't work. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
byggyns Report post Posted August 29, 2017 I have an end grain bamboo cutting board, which works well. the end grain acts like the stump/slab,. I use the side with the channel for punching and use the flat side for cutting. The one I have came with rubber feet on one side, but I pulled those off. It's similar to this one: https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Antibacterial-Top-Notch-Kitchenware/dp/B011EQF4ZY/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1504011992&sr=8-15&keywords=bamboo+cutting+board+end+grain Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WoodysWorkshop Report post Posted September 3, 2017 If you go HDPE, get a thick one, at least 1". Once both sides are worn enough to cause problems you can run it through a planer and make it smooth again. I did that with the kitchen cutting boards when I had my wood shop. Worked out great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sanch Report post Posted September 8, 2017 (edited) I have 5 tables made of UHMW bathroom stall dividers color is irrelevant durability and ability to clean with solvent is not of concern, tool sharpness and nondulling qualities of UHMW are fantastic have had no issues... Edited September 8, 2017 by Sanch Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Union Level Leather Report post Posted September 9, 2017 Walmart white plastic cutting board, 12 dollars give or take. i use them every day and they hold up for years, no tool dulling that i can see. great to use with round knife, andipound on them all day. If you know someone with a planer, 1 pass and like new again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jonathanianjames Report post Posted April 6, 2020 For pricking irons could I use any hard surface with just thick leather on top enough for the irons not to go all the way through? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
