Belt Making Tools?

[RStevenson]

Hello, I'm interested in starting to make some belts and wondering if anyone can give me the run down on the basic tools I'll need. Not planning on doing any stitching to these.

I have an older table mounted Osborne 86 skiver, strap cutter, edging and burnishing tools...

- I will need an oblong punch / slot punch? multiple sizes?

- Hole punch for rivets/chicago screws? and belt holes? size?

- Strap End Punch, do these work on most width straps?

Anything else?

Thanks

Edited July 7, 2016 by RStevenson

[byggyns]

I like the oval punches for the holes in the billet instead of round ones. - I've only bought the Tandy ones, so I can't give you any brand / quality comparisons.

If you don't want to buy the slot punches, you can get away with a round punch and a straight wood chisel to connect the two holes (or a knife to cut between the holes)

Strap end punches are fine to have, but not completely necessary. You can make or buy patterns and cut them by hand. I like having an English point and a round - it really depends on the look you are going for. You would have to buy them in each belt size you are doing.  Personally, I hate the look of the belts made with the universal flat / angled strap end punch that Tandy sells that looks like this \_/

Regarding hole punch sizes, you have to match those to your hardware. Screws / rivets / snaps require different sized holes depending on the hardware size. Buckles require different slot hole widths depending on the tongue size. Slot length depends on the thickness of the leather (thicker leather needs a longer slot) and the buckle design.

I've had good luck with a cheap set or round Chinese hole punches for a lot of what I do. I started with the replaceable tipped mini punch set, which is not as good. Once I start to break the Chinese ones, I'll invest in better quality ones. I got an Osborne round end punch in an EBay lot, and I'm pleased with how good it is; I would recommend one. They are pricey, but I can see myself getting more, and their English point punches.

I really like stitched belts, but since I don't have a machine, it takes so long to do it.

[RStevenson]

Anyone know what size oblong punch and belt hole punch I'll need?

[RockyAussie]

Study further byggyns answer and make an effort to understand it. He went to some trouble to answer this and it is true.If something is not clear enough ask what that is.Get a range of buckles first and whatever thickness leather you feel is right and put it through and make sure it sits down nicely flat when folded over.

[Harry Marinakis]

Good luck!

Edited July 11, 2016 by Harry Marinakis

[RStevenson]

On 08/07/2016 at 3:55 PM, byggyns said:

I like the oval punches for the holes in the billet instead of round ones. - I've only bought the Tandy ones, so I can't give you any brand / quality comparisons.

If you don't want to buy the slot punches, you can get away with a round punch and a straight wood chisel to connect the two holes (or a knife to cut between the holes)

Strap end punches are fine to have, but not completely necessary. You can make or buy patterns and cut them by hand. I like having an English point and a round - it really depends on the look you are going for. You would have to buy them in each belt size you are doing.  Personally, I hate the look of the belts made with the universal flat / angled strap end punch that Tandy sells that looks like this \_/

Regarding hole punch sizes, you have to match those to your hardware. Screws / rivets / snaps require different sized holes depending on the hardware size. Buckles require different slot hole widths depending on the tongue size. Slot length depends on the thickness of the leather (thicker leather needs a longer slot) and the buckle design.

I've had good luck with a cheap set or round Chinese hole punches for a lot of what I do. I started with the replaceable tipped mini punch set, which is not as good. Once I start to break the Chinese ones, I'll invest in better quality ones. I got an Osborne round end punch in an EBay lot, and I'm pleased with how good it is; I would recommend one. They are pricey, but I can see myself getting more, and their English point punches.

I really like stitched belts, but since I don't have a machine, it takes so long to do it.

Thank you for all your advice this was really helpful, I read it multiple times. 

I bought some decent tools from leathercrafttools.com I think will get the job done, 1-5mm round hole punch, 4 and 5 mm oval punch, and a 35mm english point strap end punch. I can't really invest in multiple sides of bridle to cut from ATM so I'm going to go with buying some 1 1/4" straps from buckleguy where I'll also get my hardware. 

Anyone know If I go with heel bar buckles will I have enough material left at the end of my straps to make keepers from? They're 55-60" long.

 

[byggyns]

3 hours ago, RStevenson said:

Thank you for all your advice this was really helpful, I read it multiple times. 

I bought some decent tools from leathercrafttools.com I think will get the job done, 1-5mm round hole punch, 4 and 5 mm oval punch, and a 35mm english point strap end punch. I can't really invest in multiple sides of bridle to cut from ATM so I'm going to go with buying some 1 1/4" straps from buckleguy where I'll also get my hardware. 

Anyone know If I go with heel bar buckles will I have enough material left at the end of my straps to make keepers from? They're 55-60" long.

 

 

A great resource is Al Stohlman's book "Belts Galore". It has a lot of things you won't need right now - dealing with tooling- but it is a great resource for construction techniques and designs.

[Dunluce]

Nigel Armitage sells a downloadable pdf about belt making through his website

[JLSleather]

Decide on the buckle you want to use, and cut the straps and slots to suit the buckle.  Stohlman's BELTS GALORE book explains this easily, and there are others just as good.

I don't use strap end punches.  WAY too much money for something so simple.  If you're making 10 belts per week, just make a posterboard or card stock template and cut the tips with an x-acto knife.  If you're making 100 belts per week, get a clicker die to cut the ends (it won't be that much more than a "strap end punch" anyway).

As a rule, I use a strip 10" longer than the "size" I need.  I say "as a rule" because the buckle length will change that (a 2" long buckle needs an inch LESS leather than a 1" long buckle).  So if you are making a size 40, then the leather would actually be

• 40 +
• 6" past the middle hole +
• 3.5" past the fold in teh leather,

for a total of 9.5" longer than the "size".

If you have 1 1/4" long buckles then the fold to the middle hole is 38 3/4.  Plus the 9.5 is 48 1/4".  If you want to cut the "keeper" from the same strip, then around 53" should work.