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I had run into the same problem that biker had with some leather I was working with so I put in a call to Kevin at SLC, he had 2 suggestions to correct the problem.  One was to dilute to 50/50 with the denatured alcohol, due to the mixing at the factory, Fiebing's is know for mixing in very high concentrates.  The other was to address the problem with the leather, he indicated that I would need to air brush the leather to help correct the problem, and I have to say he was right on both parts.  And this isn't a comment to promote them as I don't work for or represent them. 

  • 2 years later...
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On 9/4/2016 at 6:36 AM, bikermutt07 said:

Here is something to add. I have a hide from Tandy that just won't evenly take diluted dye of any mixture.

I was using fiebings mahogany. It continued to come out putrid variations of purple with darker specs all over it.

I had this same result with daubers, sponges, and dip dyeing. I finally had to resort to full strength.

This left me with a black piece with a hint of purple.

So, take note of the leather you are using. Cheap leather can leave you blaming the dye or technique, when you should really be addressing the material.

Just a heads up.

I have a hide from tandy also, I bought it just for the heck of it to see what it would look like , I thought i would use it for tool holders on my belt. The little black spots you are seeing after dying are bug bites from the free range cows in argentina ( thats what they told me at my tandy ) I don't like the look. Did you ever notice that none of those hides are from the USA. ? They told me it's because the foreign countries have more cows and can produce more hides faster ( to keep up with Tandy sales ) than we can, well I think it's bullshit !!! it just has to do with money. I get my leather from Moser leather in Ohio and when you call there you actually get Jim moser ( the owner ) and he will help you every step of the way so get what you want. the number I call is 1 ( 513 ) 889-0500. I wouldn't buy from anyone else, good luck .

Posted
5 hours ago, utah leather said:

I have a hide from tandy also, I bought it just for the heck of it to see what it would look like , I thought i would use it for tool holders on my belt. The little black spots you are seeing after dying are bug bites from the free range cows in argentina ( thats what they told me at my tandy ) I don't like the look. Did you ever notice that none of those hides are from the USA. ? They told me it's because the foreign countries have more cows and can produce more hides faster ( to keep up with Tandy sales ) than we can, well I think it's bullshit !!! it just has to do with money. I get my leather from Moser leather in Ohio and when you call there you actually get Jim moser ( the owner ) and he will help you every step of the way so get what you want. the number I call is 1 ( 513 ) 889-0500. I wouldn't buy from anyone else, good luck .

I hope you were wearing boots in that Tandy store. Sounds like that salesman was so full of it, he had a piece of corn in his eye.

I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with.

Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day.

From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.

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Posted

I use Angelus dyes. I started off by cutting the dye with denatured alcohol, but then switched to using isopropanol as it is much cheaper. I did not see any difference when I changed and I like the smell better.

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3 hours ago, GatoGordo said:

I use Angelus dyes. I started off by cutting the dye with denatured alcohol, but then switched to using isopropanol as it is much cheaper. I did not see any difference when I changed and I like the smell better.

thanks , I will try it with my feibings alcohol dyes

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Posted (edited)

Sorry for the very newbie question

But what is the purpose of reducing dye?

Sounds like it could help with keeping a consistent color across the entire piece.

Edited by GregS
clarify my question
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Posted

Thinning dye helps it to penetrate the thickness of the leather. Initially it will look blotchy but as more diluted dye is applied this blotchyness evens out until it totally disappears. Diluting dye also slows its drying. Neat dye put on leather dries fairly quickly and often leaves a blotchy look, dense colour where you first applied the dye with dauber/brush/sponge and less dense where it ran out. Another coat of dye can often not flow into the first to even out the colour.  Diluted dye will still look the same at first but as it is slower drying the next application flows into the first application better

Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..

Posted
1 hour ago, wizard of tragacanth said:

Doesn't reducing dye also allow to make lighter shades?  IDK, I have never tried it.

Yes. It gives you the ability to make it lighter. 

I'm not paying 80 bucks for a belt!!! It's a strip of leather. How hard could it be? 4 years and 3 grand later.... I have a belt I can finally live with.

Stitching is like gravy, it's only great if you make it every day.

From Texas but in Bossier City, Louisiana.

  • 4 years later...
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Posted

This is an old post, but, I have been doing a bit of experimenting as I work towards my first bespoke pair of shoes.  I an trying to get to a light grey, which is almost imposible with a dye on a brown leather, but, trying...

I have diluted the Angelus jet black with Angelus clear (which acts as a reducer) - roughly 20:1.  I get a grey, but, not as light a grey as I would like.

Attached is a sample piece that I am experimenting on.  The light grey ring is Clyde's leather balm, which I have not had any success getting to penetrate tooling leather.  The folks at Clyde's have been awesome and are sending some leather prep to try before making another attempt.  The darker gray is the diluted Jet Black, airbrushed on very lightly.  The really dark was trying to dial in the dilution.

20231007_171413 (1).jpg

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