utah leather

I am looking for a used sewing machine that will sew very heavy leather 1/4 inch plus, does anybody have any ideas ?

thanks , I will try this.

use dye reducer to the feibings tan dye and it should acually look tan not orange ? what type of other stuff can you use to cut the dye ?

I would like some advice on trying to make the dye color tan, Feibings tan turns out orange. I tried mixing several colors but no luck.

what is the best way to store my leather hides for long term storage ( I think somebody said under a bed ) is there a way to cover it up so the bedroom doesn't smeel like leather ?

thanks , I will try it with my feibings alcohol dyes

I have a hide from tandy also, I bought it just for the heck of it to see what it would look like , I thought i would use it for tool holders on my belt. The little black spots you are seeing after dying are bug bites from the free range cows in argentina ( thats what they told me at my tandy ) I don't like the look. Did you ever notice that none of those hides are from the USA. ? They told me it's because the foreign countries have more cows and can produce more hides faster ( to keep up with Tandy sales ) than we can, well I think it's bullshit !!! it just has to do with money. I get my leather from Moser leather in Ohio and when you call there you actually get Jim moser ( the owner ) and he will help you every step of the way so get what you want. the number I call is 1 ( 513 ) 889-0500. I wouldn't buy from anyone else, good luck .

I know the feeling, I have had that happen to me ( but mine rolls over the back side that I wasn't going to dye ) I don't dye my backs due to the worry of rub off. I too have several black belts that I didn't know I needed. ( like a life time supply ) lol

I've read where some of you guys cut your dye, what exactly do you cut alcohol dye with ? what is the difference between all the different alcohols ?

thank you, I will look for some from the guy I get my leather from

All I can say is Holy Shit !!!! beautiful work , how much time does it take you to do a stamped belt like that ? and cost ? how thick is the leather you're using ? . Again those belts look like a piece of art

how thick or thin should your leather be to wet mold a utility knife/ pencil holder for your belt ?

Is it possible to glue 2 pieces of 16 oz veg tan together and not sew it ( I don't have a sewing machine ) to make a heavy duty belt for a pair of heavy tool bags .

thank you for everything but my leather comes from Moser Leather out of Ohio and I have been buying his leather since I started 5 years ago , never had a problem. I actually call him and I tell him what I'm looking for and he will pick it out for me and mail it over here, you don't get that kind of service these days and thats why I buy from him ( Jim Moser ) . I never used to do anything to the leather, I would just dye it ( all I use is alcohol based dye from fiebings ) then 3 coats of Resolene, thats it. I read somewhere that people were cleaning the leather before they dyed it . So at first I just used DNA or rubbing alcohol to strip the resolene off if I redyed something, no problem, all was good so I thought I would try it on my 8 oz veg tan leather to see what the difference was. ( it's weird because the first few pieces I cut from this hide were fine ) ( black dress belts ) then after the rubbing alcohol everything turned to shit, I even tried DNA nd acetone just to see what would happen ( same thing ). So I cut a few more and didn't do anything, just dyed it , same thing plus the little specks from the rubbing alcohol. I'm ready to give up on this little business ( this is 1 reason plus I'm tired of trying to convince people that my belts are better than the belts you buy at wal mart ) all people see is price, I have a couple belts to finish ( 1 is a gift for a vietnam vet ) then I think I will call it quits, just tired of dealing with stupid people that don't understand common sense.

I didn't used to but I thought I read on here where some people were preping it with something ( deglazer ) before dyeing and someone said that deglazer was just alcohol, DNA, acetone , ? something The hide might be shot if I can't figure out what is going on with it

what is the best way to prep ( clean ) your leather before dyeing, for some reason everything I have tried isn't working, accidently sprayed rubbing alcohol on my hide and when I dye a strip of leather it has little spots on it that won't except the dye. I have tried denatured alcohol, acetone( to clean the strip before dyeing and then the leather won't except the dye at all ) tired of wasting my leather, I have never had this happen before, what am I doing wrong, ??????

I have been experimenting with beeswax for a while now and it seems to be very labor intensive and I was concerned about it rubbing off on someones cloths if I dyed it and then used beeswax as a finish and nothing else , just fiebings alcohol dye, wait 24 hours , buff litely , neatsfoot oil, wait 24 hours, then beeswax ( mixed 50/50 with neatsfoot oil ) . I have tried different techniqes like just rubbing it on and rubbing it , rubbing it on heating with a heat gun then when cool I would buff it off, ect. I would like to know your technique to see how it works so I could get awaw from the resolene and just use beeswax on my belts. Most of the belts I make are work belts for the guys at work , we install granite countertops. any advice would be great. Thanks

wellI tried the tan kote as a finish and it seems to shinny and a little hard to work with, I used a damp sponge as recommened but I don'like racing the clock when applying a finish. Not happy with resolene right now either , I'm looking for other options and opinions of the products. thanks everybody

Thanks Northmount, the stuff I warmed up is doing fine , so I will take your advice and keep it cool and only warm up what I need

I,m looking for reviews on tan kote, tecniques, opinions thanks

I just tried tan kote on a sample belt ( I have been using resolene for about 5 years ) and I have a couple questions , what do you use to apply it, what tecnique do you use and do you thin it down wth anything ?. I'm finding it hard to use, it doesn't go very far and after I put it on so I have to keep messin with it rubbing it on ( as it wants to dry while working with it ) and after 4 coats it has faint lines in it from the speachial sponges I use. Thanks for any advice

do you sell on facebook ? I've tried and all I get is likes, not sure what I'm doing wrong. I would like to sell enough belts to be able to work from home

messing around with different teckniqes just taking a solid piece ( mixed 50/50 with neatsfoot oil ) and rubbing it on a scrap piece of undyed leather then let it sit for awhile then rub it off with an old t- shirt , then do it again a few times . Some people heat up the beeswax after they put it on, let it sit a few minutes until it cools off then rub it off , ( remember to constatly flip the rag so you're not rubbing wax over wax , it will drag and then it's time to flip the rag ) then repeat. Like I said, I am still practiceing myself since I have been using resolene for 5 years without a problem but lately it's just acting weird and not flowing out and drying like it's supposed to. Good luck Guys Keep me posted on your results.

do you know what the shelf life is on neatsfoot oil after the bottle has been opened ?