'Dollar' sized wallet, hand stitched in veg tan leather.

[ConradPark]

A custom wallet I made a while ago. The requirement has been to adapt one of my existing designs to just about fitting Dollar notes unfolded. The wallet is 17cm (6.7") long. For the interested, I've used an aniline colored, Italian, full grain, vegetable tanned, shoulder leather that have been drum dyed. Weight is 4.5-5 ounce (1.8-2mm) all the way through, all hardware is nickel plated brass, including the YKK zipper. The thread is artificial Sinew, everything is saddle stitched by hand. I've used a small Vergez Blanchard awl and a fork as stitch marker (not kidding). roughly 5mm stitching or 5.08 spi. Edges are dyed with a permanent marker pen, and burnished with saddle soap and polished with some wax. The only treatment of the leather have been some final wiping with some Carnauba cream. Although not visible in the pictures, there is a third 'hidden' card pocket in between the main body and the zippered coin department.

Hopefully the pictures will inspire someone, but don't copy - don't be lazy and a tool. Instead, try to always do things your own way - that is part of the fun! Cheers.

 

Edited October 11, 2016 by ConradPark

[Ferg]

Nice work and design

Ferg

[venator]

What do you do to finish your edges?  They're gorgeous.

[ConradPark]

Ferg, thanks - always appreciated with a compliment from a long standing member.

 

Venator, I burnish them with a wooden slicker, made from cocobolo with wax.

Now, for a long time I had difficulties to achieve good edges and always thought it was something missing, but like saddle stitching, it's only down to experience and practice. I always do any excessive sandpapering first, with a 360-400 grit paper. Then I color the edges - I use flat top permanent markers, cheap and no mess! Then I use saddle soap or glycerin bar to 'wax' the edges (no water) and burnish them. In my experience it's best to burnish 'lightly' the first time, otherwise there is a risk to compress the leather too much out of shape as the edges will be soft and sometimes 'mushy' depending on what leather I use. Then I wipe of excess wax with a lint free cloth and let the whole thing dry until the next day. And this is the most important step!

The day after, the edges will be much firmer and I can now use a 600 grit sandpaper to smooth out those smallest bumps. Then usually another covering with the marker pen. Then I use some kind of harder wax, either the kind of wax bars to repair wooden tabletops from scratch marks, or I use a home made 50/50 mix of bees wax and paraffin. I burnish some more and a bit more vigorously than earlier. Speed is more important than pressure. Sometimes it fuzzes up, then it is just to wax that part, burnish gently, sandpaper, wax, and burnish again. Finally I go over everything with a 1000 grit sandpaper, wax everything lightly once more and polish it with a cloth to a shine. Sometimes, but rarely - I put a couple of layers of acrylic resolene after I have sandpapered it the first time but before I apply the final wax layer. If doing this, you need to let it dry properly between the layers and don't burnish after you sandpapered as the resolene won't have any grip then. After properly drying over the night, you can wax and sandpaper with a 1000 grit paper as before.

That's it. No quick or magical way, I'm afraid. Some leathers are obviously easier. Natural veg tan and bridle leather is a child's play, while any drum dyed, oiled or tumbled leather can be a challenge. Same with CXL. Full chrome leathers needs another approach - edge painting or turned edging.

[bikermutt07]

Brilliant execution. That is very clean looking.

[pnj]

wallet looks great. 

Not sure why you'd say to not copy it. I don't see anything original in it. Looks like a biker wallet, of which, there are many.

 

[venator]

12 hours ago, ConradPark said:

Ferg, thanks - always appreciated with a compliment from a long standing member.

 

Venator, I burnish them with a wooden slicker, made from cocobolo with wax.

Now, for a long time I had difficulties to achieve good edges and always thought it was something missing, but like saddle stitching, it's only down to experience and practice. I always do any excessive sandpapering first, with a 360-400 grit paper. Then I color the edges - I use flat top permanent markers, cheap and no mess! Then I use saddle soap or glycerin bar to 'wax' the edges (no water) and burnish them. In my experience it's best to burnish 'lightly' the first time, otherwise there is a risk to compress the leather too much out of shape as the edges will be soft and sometimes 'mushy' depending on what leather I use. Then I wipe of excess wax with a lint free cloth and let the whole thing dry until the next day. And this is the most important step!

The day after, the edges will be much firmer and I can now use a 600 grit sandpaper to smooth out those smallest bumps. Then usually another covering with the marker pen. Then I use some kind of harder wax, either the kind of wax bars to repair wooden tabletops from scratch marks, or I use a home made 50/50 mix of bees wax and paraffin. I burnish some more and a bit more vigorously than earlier. Speed is more important than pressure. Sometimes it fuzzes up, then it is just to wax that part, burnish gently, sandpaper, wax, and burnish again. Finally I go over everything with a 1000 grit sandpaper, wax everything lightly once more and polish it with a cloth to a shine. Sometimes, but rarely - I put a couple of layers of acrylic resolene after I have sandpapered it the first time but before I apply the final wax layer. If doing this, you need to let it dry properly between the layers and don't burnish after you sandpapered as the resolene won't have any grip then. After properly drying over the night, you can wax and sandpaper with a 1000 grit paper as before.

That's it. No quick or magical way, I'm afraid. Some leathers are obviously easier. Natural veg tan and bridle leather is a child's play, while any drum dyed, oiled or tumbled leather can be a challenge. Same with CXL. Full chrome leathers needs another approach - edge painting or turned edging.

Thanks, it's gorgeous

[RockyAussie]

Very nice workmanship,I knew there was a reason to be following you. The design looks very good and unusual to me as well.