New to industrial sewing machines Juki LU-562

[Uwe]

The whole binding business is a science in itself. There's a lot of experimenting and trial/error involved in finding a setup that works for you. Watching youtube videos is a quick and cheap way to educate yourself on the available options. 

Most folks who do a lot of binding operations, especially on bags and other three dimensional projects (as opposed to flat things like wallets and belts) end up with a dedicated cylinder arm machine with a binder setup that moves back and forth with the walking foot.

Depending on material thickness and thread size requirements there are three general classes of suitable machines. There many original machines and aftermarket copies/clones in each class, I'm just naming a few popular suspects, order from heavy to light duty:

1. Durkopp Adler 205 for heavy duty projects 

2. Durkopp Adler 269/Juki 341 class for medium to heavy duty projects

3. Pfaff 335/Durkopp Adler 69 class for light to medium duty projects

This video happens to show all three classes listed above performing binding operations (the first demo on the Adler 205 uses a fixed tape folder, the rest use moving binders):

Here's a video of a Durkopp Adler 205 class machine doing a binding operation with a moving binder. 

Some flatbed machines like the Pfaff 145/545 (unfortunately not available on a Juki 562/563 to my knowledge) can also be fitted with a moving synchronized binders that connect to the feed dog for synchronized movement as shown in this video:

 

[chuckgaudette]

Uwe, what binding attachment would you recommend for the PFAFF 335? I don't do binding often so I don't want to spend a lot money on one. Most of my bags use 1.5 -3 mm calf or cow leather. 

[Firestar1485]

As a fellow Juki owner, I thought you might appreciate this ... https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2935348/Juki LU 562 563 Manual.pdf

This 100+ page PDF file that I assembled with really helpful information on the Juki LU 562/563 series that I am working on.  The PDF includes Juki manual, Juki parts list, Repair/Service Chapter from an Aircrew Equipmentman Manual, and Singer 111 manual and parts list.  I enlarged the critical diagrams too.  Feel free to download a copy if you think it will help or be a good resource when needed.

 

Juki LU 562 563 Manual.pdf

Edited January 4, 2017 by northmount
Uploaded file, links often disappear, esp dropbox

[jshep]

Thanks everyone for all the info!! I'm still having some issues with getting a binder to work on my juki.

I purchased the tape folder, throat plate/feed dog, presser feet that I mentioned early (the ebay listing). One thing I'm struggling with is to get the tape folder (the simple metal folder that you would attach to the machine somewhere) attached. On my old machine there two holes that worked perfectly for my other binder, but on the juki the holes are on the bobbin plate and they are a really odd size (can't seem to find a screw that fits anywhere, anyone know where I could find one that would fit?). 

Uwe, would I need an attachment like something in the video you posted above for the Pfaff 545 to attach just the binder? I don't see any other holes that could for the attachments.

I just cannot seem to get this to work and my online research is coming up with no solutions or info, feeling a little frustrated. 

[Uwe]

You just need a right slide plate with suitable holes in the right location. 

The hole in a standard right slide plate for the Juki 562 class is very likely a #10-32 thread. At least several of my slide plates take that size. Luckily most hardware stores carry size #10-32 screws. Most other screws on vintage sewing machines are specialty sizes that you will never find at a normal hardware store.

The reality is that many folks "customize" their slide plates by either forcing a different size thread through the hole or drilling and tapping a brand new hole.  All of which is fine, really. But there's no way of us knowing exactly what your slide plate is threaded for right now.

Many slide plates also have a second thread hole in the top right corner (also threaded for #10-32 on mine) which allows you to lock the slide plate in place to make sure it doesn't move while you're sewing. 

When you buy additional slide plates, make sure they're the correct "right side" ones. The slide plates for the right have a thinned out area underneath that allows room for the thread and hook to do their thing. The slide plate for the left side are flat (and too thick) on the underside. 

It's important that the screw thread does NOT extend below the bottom surface of the plate because it may interfere with or damage the hook. Get a screw that is a little too long. Remove the plate and mount the binder and tighten the screw, then cut off the part of the screw that sticks below the bottom surface with a hacksaw/grinder/Dremel and file it nice and flat. Your slide plate won't win any beauty pageants afterwards, but at least it'll work.  

Here's one example of a plate that has been customized by the previous owner (silver) and a standard, unmodified slide plate (black)

Industrious folks who do a lot of binding with different binders have bought multiple slide plates to easily swap out one binder for another, or back to a standard plate without having to fuss with screws and aligning things again. Slide plates are cheap at around $11 each on Ebay, the banner vendors, or from me. 

Edited January 13, 2017 by Uwe

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

Nice

[jshep]

Uwe thank you!!! This is exactly what I needed to know!

[advansite]

just got a juki lu 563.  can not find a good reference for needles and thread for doing leather belts/sheaths. any pointers 

[Wizcrafts]

2 hours ago, advansite said:

just got a juki lu 563.  can not find a good reference for needles and thread for doing leather belts/sheaths. any pointers 

Buy System 135x16 leather point needles in sizes 18, 19, 22 and 23. This covers a bonded nylon thread range of v69 through v138. If you are going to sew cloth or woven material, buy 135x17 round point needles in the appropriate sizes. Your machine can use up to #138 bonded thread. It can also sew with thinner thread than #69. Here is a thread and needle size chart to help you choose the best combinations.

[advansite]

so what is a good thread size and needle size for say a leather belt , or a 3/8 inch thick leather sheath 

 

is the needle bigger  as the number gets smaller  ( size 18 bigger than 23 ) 

is the thread thicker as the number gets bigger.. I used 1mm tiger thread to hand sew sheaths.. what is close to that in v size.. 

 

thanks for all the help .. never touched a sewing machine before 

[Wizcrafts]

3 hours ago, advansite said:

so what is a good thread size and needle size for say a leather belt , or a 3/8 inch thick leather sheath 

 

is the needle bigger  as the number gets smaller  ( size 18 bigger than 23 ) 

is the thread thicker as the number gets bigger.. I used 1mm tiger thread to hand sew sheaths.. what is close to that in v size.. 

 

thanks for all the help .. never touched a sewing machine before 

As needle size number increases, so does the diameter of the business end. As the bonded nylon or bonded polyester thread size increases, so does its diameter.

There are very few sewing machines that can even approach using 1mm thread. None of the ones in common use or new ones for sale from our dealers can do much more than 1/2 mm diameter. Only needle and awl or shoe sole machines can use 1mm thread.

[dikman]

Advansite, have you read Wiz's sticky at the top? It is an absolute necessity for anyone starting out and wanting to use a machine to sew leather. Many newcomers who hand stitch ask the same thing, they expect to be able to use a similar size thread when machine stitching, unfortunately that is way beyond the capability of most of the machines commonly used by members here.

[advansite]

not sure what a wiz sticky is.. 

i was just referencing i used 1mm by hand.. no thoughts that i can stick that spool on my machine and i am all set 

my ask is what is a good needle and thread size  for a belt and a sheath 

 

i appreciate the patience and help by you experienced leather workers 

[Wizcrafts]

1 hour ago, advansite said:

not sure what a wiz sticky is.. 

i was just referencing i used 1mm by hand.. no thoughts that i can stick that spool on my machine and i am all set 

my ask is what is a good needle and thread size  for a belt and a sheath 

 

i appreciate the patience and help by you experienced leather workers 

I use #277 bonded nylon thread, top and bobbin, with a #25 leather point needle when sewing holsters up to 1/2 inch thick. Beyond that I switch to #346 thread, top and bottom, with a #26 needle, and increase the stitch length a bit. My current holster machine is a Cowboy CB4500.

A sticky topic is fixed at the top of the list of topics when you enter each forum. I happen to have such a topic that has been locked and remains in its place near the top of the entry page of the Leather Sewing Machines forum. That topic is labeled: The Type Of Sewing Machine You Need To Sew Leather. All of the topics that don't move down with time are called "sticky" topics. It is done by our forum's software.

[dikman]

Sorry, I just assumed that anyone using a forum knew what a "sticky" was. My bad. Thanks Wiz.

Wiz answered your question with his first post. The maximum size you will be able to use reliably is #138 thread. It doesn't look too bad on a dress belt, but on gunbelts it can look a bit "small", likewise on a sheath. 3/8", by the way, is the maximum you can fit under the feet and still sew.