Thread getting "rolled" problem...

[Zapee]

I have a heavy duty sewing machine type Claes 223-2. This machine is "new" for me. I'm trying to sew very thick thread. When i sew about 40-50 cm the thread is getting rolled or drift, I don't know witch is the best word for this phenomenon. What is the reason?

The overall look of the stiching I think it's good, but i fear the thread is getting stuck or something when it's too "drifted".

Another question: how can I avoid the scratches of the grain size of the leather? (the transmitting tooths scratches the soft leather) There is any trick to avoid this I mean can I protect the leather while i sew it?

Any suggestion? Thank you for your help!

 

[CowboyBob]

The first pin you thread  after the thread stand has 2-holes in it go through both of them.

[Uwe]

Your thread should be somewhat taught after the first thread guide pin (use both holes in the first pin as Bob suggested.)

 

When your thread take-up lever pulls more thread, it should not pull a whole bunch of thread from the spool and make it go slack/loose, thus allowing it to curl up like that. Experiment with wrapping the thread in a spiral fashion (rather than straight up-and-down) through the guide holes to see if it helps.

As for teeth mark on the bottom, you're somewhat limited with your options, since your machine is a bottom-only feed machine. If the feed dog had no teeth, it would not be able to move the material reliably, causing uneven stitch length. There are special feed dogs with a sticky rubber coating available for some machines, but I doubt yours is one of them. You can try easing up on the top foot pressure until it is light enough to hopefully lessen the marks from the feed dog, but still strong enough to help feed the material evenly. Other sewing machine designs use needle feed and/or top feed in addition to bottom feed, allowing the machine to move the material reliably with fewer/lighter marks on the leather.

 

Edited November 16, 2016 by Uwe
image fix

[gottaknow]

In manufacturing we call this "pig-tailing" and it usually an indication of poor quality or old thread. The most common causes are improper tensioning of the individual strands that comprise the thread. In other words, the tighter strand pulls the looser strands uneven, causing it to pigtail. Another cause is the thread is wound too tightly on the cone. When it comes off the cone, the tension is released and it snaps back like a rubber band. Lastly, lack of finish/sizing or being old will contribute as well. The goal when using thread like this is to have the pig tailing occur close to the cone, then start controlling it with thread guides. If a pigtail goes through the tension disk, it will create real problems. Since heavy thread requires more tension anyway, get creative with adding additional guides where you can give the thread a chance to relax a bit as it travels. I use hollow tubing, usually 1/8" copper, flared on both ends and then mounted somewhere. This is a big problem in a factory that I deal with daily. Expensive thread tends to have better quality control, so less issues...usually. Good luck!

Regards, Eric

 

[Zapee]

Thank you all for taking your time to reply my questions. I learned a lot from you now. I will try all of your suggestions! 

I love leatherworker.net! 

Thank you again!

Adam

[Evo160K]

Zapee,

Here's a link to the company that eventually acquired Claes.

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://www.cl-maschinenbau.de/&prev=search

They may have operator and parts manuals for your machine, if you need them.

[TinkerTailor]

14 hours ago, gottaknow said:

In manufacturing we call this "pig-tailing" and it usually an indication of poor quality or old thread. The most common causes are improper tensioning of the individual strands that comprise the thread. In other words, the tighter strand pulls the looser strands uneven, causing it to pigtail. Another cause is the thread is wound too tightly on the cone. When it comes off the cone, the tension is released and it snaps back like a rubber band. Lastly, lack of finish/sizing or being old will contribute as well. The goal when using thread like this is to have the pig tailing occur close to the cone, then start controlling it with thread guides. If a pigtail goes through the tension disk, it will create real problems. Since heavy thread requires more tension anyway, get creative with adding additional guides where you can give the thread a chance to relax a bit as it travels. I use hollow tubing, usually 1/8" copper, flared on both ends and then mounted somewhere. This is a big problem in a factory that I deal with daily. Expensive thread tends to have better quality control, so less issues...usually. Good luck!

Regards, Eric

 

It has not been mentioned yet, is there a chance that the twist of the thread is wrong for the machine?

[gottaknow]

1 hour ago, TinkerTailor said:

It has not been mentioned yet, is there a chance that the twist of the thread is wrong for the machine?

If it was right twist thread, the thread would be unraveling and the hook would be grabbing an individual strand and breaking it at the hook.

Regards, Eric

[Zapee]

It works!

Thank you all of the good informations and suggestions!

I sewed about 4 meter and I haven't got this pig-tailing. 

Evo160k: They already sent me one digital copy from the manual and parts list about 1 week ago. Shame but I do not understand German (Funny the manual has no pictures in it :D ). Thank you.

I attached the "best working thread guide what you suggested for me!  I can't belive it... it working now like a charm!

[dikman]

Zapee, thanks for asking this question. While I haven't had any problems with this happening (yet?) I hadn't realised how crucial the two thread guides are. I learned a lot from the answers in this post!