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Posted

I believe I saw a section for belts, but since this relates to holsters I thought I'd ask here.

So once I've got my first holster finished and I get going on my second I was thinking about giving a belt a go.

A couple question on holster specific belts:

If one is to be hand stitching, are single thickness belt blanks available to avoid stitching?

How heavy do folks usually go for total oz on a holster belt??

 

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Posted

I make mine upwards of .200 depending on the leather I have available.  Most of the time that is two pieces of 6/7 flesh to flesh, . . . contact cemented together.

If I were making a single layer, . . . it would have to be 14 oz or better, . . .  but I have never had anyone insist on a single layer belt.  Once they see, try on, and feel the fit of the double layer, . . . they seem to be happy with it.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted

Which leads to the question:

Is hand stitching a belt insanity?  I've never done it but it seems like it'd drive one nuts pretty quick.

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Posted

I've made single layer belts out of heavy saddle skirting (14/16 oz) that have held up very well. If you cut them along the back parallel to the spine they have a minimal amount of stretch. For comparison, this is where you'd cut stirrup leathers for a saddle. That said, they do not hold up as well, nor are they as rigid as a double layer, glued and stitched belt. I have hand sewn many belts. Get yourself a stitching horse, a sharp awl, some thin leather gloves, a small pair of pliers and practice up on your saddle stitching. It's been a while but if I recall correctly you're looking at around 3 hours of mind numbing work (or relaxing, depending on your outlook). Since I've purchased a sewing machine (Cobra class 4) I haven't been even close to tempted to hand sew a belt, or really anything. 

I usually make my doubled belts out of 2 layers of 7/8 oz because I usually have it on hand. Although I have also used 10/11 with a 4/5 back. Basically somewhere between 14 to 16 oz for a total thickness which will come in just under 1/4". The nice thing about using 7/8 is that it's thick enough to have the top layer make the fold around the buckle then skive it off and pick up the liner and it's all one thickness without the doubled up bulk at the buckle. with the 2 colors of leather you can see what I'm saying in the picture below. 

Good luck with your belt, however you decide to make it!

Josh

012.jpg

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Posted (edited)

If you're only looking to make a belt or three, hand sewing is not a bad option.  I have not sewn a belt myself, BUT I have done a few guitar straps which are similar.  It's not something you'd want to do all the time, but when you hit your stride sewing something that size, it moves along nicely.  Stopping every few inches to stretch my arthritic hands the straps still only take two or three hours.  There is a certain zen-like quality to hand stitching for me, and there's a little extra bit of pride in the finished product it seems.  So, no.  It's not insane.  Not something you'd want to do every day, but do-able!

P.S.  Be sure to have some proper music to work with, or if you can maintain concentration a movie or TV show.  It helps.

Edited by billybopp
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Posted

The only bit I was worried about with hand stitching is the length of thread I'd need to be pulling through when getting the belt started.  That'd be pretty dang long threads to tend to and keep from getting all tangled up.  Unfortunately I don't see a sewing machine in my near future.  The funds just aren't there for it and available funds will need to be going into leather and dies.  I've only just picked up a double shoulder and a small bottle of die and resolene to get myself started.  I sure would like to do a couple 2-3 belts though.  

I was trying to find somewhere online that sold pre-punched belt blanks and regular belt blanks for liners, that'd sure make the process easier but I wasn't seeing the weights I'd want to a 2 layer belt.  

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Posted

My belts are generally around 13-14 oz total thickness.  I have hand stitched them, but not so much these days (though I would if I needed to).  This weight can be done with different weights, like I do -- 8/9 oz lined with 4 oz - or with two layers of the same weight, like Dwight mentioned (double 6/7 oz).  Two layers of a single thickness lets a guy get by with only buying one weight of leather, or thicker lined with thinner lets me carve a little deeper.. so each has it's benefit.

No rule says you have to go all the way around the belt with one thread.  Tw0-piece it (one splice) would be fine....

 

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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Posted
12 minutes ago, JLSleather said:

My belts are generally around 13-14 oz total thickness.  I have hand stitched them, but not so much these days (though I would if I needed to).  This weight can be done with different weights, like I do -- 8/9 oz lined with 4 oz - or with two layers of the same weight, like Dwight mentioned (double 6/7 oz).  Two layers of a single thickness lets a guy get by with only buying one weight of leather, or thicker lined with thinner lets me carve a little deeper.. so each has it's benefit.

No rule says you have to go all the way around the belt with one thread.  Tw0-piece it (one splice) would be fine....

 

That's about the weight's I've been looking for.  8/9oz pre-punched belt blanks are out there but I can't find any 4oz 1-1/2 belt strips to use as liner.  

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Posted (edited)

My guitar straps were all done with a single length of braided poly .. A couple with black Tiger thread, the others with Chinese poly.  They were all darker colors, so color contamination was not a problem.  Managing tangling does take a bit of care, and it will happen.  You just have to be aware of it and keep an eye out for knots.  If a knot appears, don't pull it through if you catch it, back out and untangle the knot.  It's a little bit of a pain, but I've not had more than two or three in a project.  You quickly learn how to manage your thread and not tangle it.   Over that length, the needle end of the poly will begin to show some wear for a couple of inches, so add a little extra to allow for that.

If I were doing a light color, or using linen or some other thread that's susceptible to wear I'd go for shorter lengths and splice.

Also, as previously mentioned, some protection for your hands is in order .. Lightweight gloves would work, but I use athletic tape wrapped around the fingertips that grab needle and thread and around the "wear" places on my fingers that I pull to tighten with.  Without these, in time you'll get callouses on those spots, but until then you can end up sore and maybe even a little bloody.

Another big help is a couple of thin strips of wood to help support long runs in your stitching pony.  About 1/4" X 1" x 12" on both sides of the strap held by the stitching pony.  Some have made stitching clamps just for straps, but the wood strips work really well.

Edited by billybopp
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Posted

I had one supplier split me a strip of two once when I didn't want to cut into what I had here.  What they charged me to split a couple of strips was borderline insane ;)

I generally have 3 weights here, and sometimes a 4th weight from time to time.  But once I move, I think I'll just purchase a good size splitter.  I mean, assuming that I can find one.

JLS  "Observation is 9/10 of the law."

IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.

5 leather patterns

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