Contributing Member JLSleather Posted December 7, 2016 Contributing Member Report Posted December 7, 2016 1 minute ago, carguy4471 said: So I'm not buffing with a dry cloth at all then. Just a wet one to clean it off and then a fresh clean one to buff. I can deal with that. Yeah, you'll use a dry one. Wet one to take off the heavy particles - might use more than one piece depending on teh dye application. Then when the leather is still damp, dry one.. Quote "Observation is 9/10 of the law." IF what you do is something that ANYBODY can do, then don't be surprised when ANYBODY does.
Members carguy4471 Posted December 7, 2016 Author Members Report Posted December 7, 2016 Ok, gotcha. That makes more sense to me. Quote
Members Red Bear Haraldsson Posted December 7, 2016 Members Report Posted December 7, 2016 40 minutes ago, billybopp said: USMC black does indeed take a whole lot of buffing ... I found out the hard way, as the OP did, before I started coming here and reading about it. But it begs the question, why do they still sell the stuff? Does it have some use that I'm not aware of? Is there some use for it that justifies all that work? Boots. Combat boots. The regulations used to say something to the effect of 'well blackened.' Fiebings USMC black fit that bill perfectly. Quote
Members TinkerTailor Posted December 7, 2016 Members Report Posted December 7, 2016 1 hour ago, billybopp said: USMC black does indeed take a whole lot of buffing ... I found out the hard way, as the OP did, before I started coming here and reading about it. But it begs the question, why do they still sell the stuff? Does it have some use that I'm not aware of? Is there some use for it that justifies all that work? I believe there is a US military specification for the leather dye they use and fiebings makes it for them. Quote "If nobody shares what they know, we will eventually all know nothing." "There is no adventure in letting fear and common sense be your guide"
Members chiefjason Posted December 8, 2016 Members Report Posted December 8, 2016 You can contrast stitch with oil dye. I do black with white stitching occasionally. No problems. I built a stitching pony, but never use it. But I pre punch my holes with an awl blade in the drill press. With pre punched holes I stitch faster without the pony. Quote
Members carguy4471 Posted December 8, 2016 Author Members Report Posted December 8, 2016 Well, she went into the food saver last night. Wow, that little bugger has some serious horsepower. I did not expect it to draw that leather as tightly as it did. A few fun tidbits I picked up during the molding process yesterday.... Pay attention to the leather thickness a pattern was made with if you are using a pattern you procured elsewhere. My patter (thank you JLS) was setup on very slightly lighter leather than I have. I could have adjusted the stitch lines out a hair. I had to get pretty cave man to get the bluegun into the holster...... But I did get it. The backside of the foodsaver bag will put a checker pattern in your leather, and a paper towel will not stop it from doing so. I knew it could and that I should put something in there to prevent it but thought a paper towel would work. Luckily, I really like the pattern on the backside of the holster. Next time I'll use something else to prevent it. I also discovered that I completely and utterly hate fiebings USMC black. Seriously!! I buffed for a bit before wet molding and still once that holster went into the vacuum bag my hands were black. If anyone wants the rest of this bottle I'll send it off for the cost of shipping. I'm on to oil dye, grabbing some after work today. Here is what the holster looked like this morning. It sure isn't perfect. It has some not so perfect tooling marks and some duller spots that I think just need more buffing. But, this is my first holster, and first leather project. It does though lock the firearm in very tight with zero movement and has solid retention, and it draws clean with a solid yank. All in all I think it's a win. I still need to do more buffing, gum trag the edges and then neetsfoot and resolene. Pointers are more than welcome, but do bear in mind it's my first go. And thanks again to everyone for all the pointers and input thus far, and JLS for the help and great pattern. Quote
Members JHobbs Posted December 19, 2016 Members Report Posted December 19, 2016 For a small stitching pony I use 2 metal rulers that have a cork backing and 4 small spring clamps. The rulers hold the piece and the springs apply pressure and act like legs. It works great, maybe 5 dollars invested. The cork protects leather and it sits right on my work bench at a great hieght and is plenty long enough to hold even larger pieces. Quote
Members cradom Posted December 20, 2016 Members Report Posted December 20, 2016 Quick question: Using a food saver, do you leave it in overnight, or how long? I need to make a holster for the wife's .38. Quote
Members Dwight Posted December 20, 2016 Members Report Posted December 20, 2016 1 hour ago, cradom said: Quick question: Using a food saver, do you leave it in overnight, or how long? I need to make a holster for the wife's .38. Quick answer, . . . 30 seconds will probably be too long. Seriously, I use a vacuum pump, . . . but vacuum is vacuum, . . . you will probably be amazed at how fast the leather will form. May God bless, Dwight Quote If you can breathe, . . . thank God. If you can read, . . . thank a teacher. If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran. www.dwightsgunleather.com
Members cradom Posted December 21, 2016 Members Report Posted December 21, 2016 (edited) Thank you sir. Wasn't worried so much about how fast it would form as how long til the leather "set" I guess, or stayed as formed. I guess it's pretty much a "right now" kind of thing. The only forming I've done is hard forming...molding on a board with a wooden form underneath and then using heat to harden it or dry it out. Edited December 21, 2016 by cradom Quote
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