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Uwe

Are Pfaff 335 and Adler 69 cylinder arm caps interchangeable?

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The question is, can you put a closed Adler 69 cap on a Pfaff 335 to avoid things getting tangled up in the open hook area? I'm hoping somebody has both machines sitting next to each other for a quick trial.

The Pfaff 335 uses open caps:

Screen Shot 2017-02-04 at 7.08.23 PM.png

and The Adler 69 uses closed caps:

Screen Shot 2017-02-04 at 6.35.45 PM.png

 

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I would bet the closed cap off the Mitsubishi CU-865 would fit it, since everything else on the arm assembly seems to be a 1:1 copy of the 335. The only problem is, they are probably an order of magnitude more scarce than the Adler 69's. You never know what you might run into, however.

-DC

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Good tip, DC! I actually have a Mitsubishi CU-865 project machine, but the hook cover is missing (as it turns out all three of my small cylinder arm project machines are missing the hook cover - argh!)

CU-865 parts appear to be totally unavailable these days - my supplier just shows *NLA* for the last few CU-865 parts I tried to order. But at least I can use it to take some measurements to make my own hook covers.

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I just checked my  335 and it has a closed end cap part Pfaff no 14638. The 69 Addler here wears a pfaff cap as well but has been shortened back about 1mm. The shorter cap will go on the 335 a bit far in but still clears the hook etc. Note the end on your 335 looks different to mine as pics shows I hope. Hope that is of some help. Brain

DSC05080_resize.JPG

DSC05079_resize.JPG

DSC05073_resize.JPG

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Uwe, my 335 also came with a closed end cap like Brian's, and the end also looks the same.

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11 hours ago, Uwe said:

But at least I can use it to take some measurements to make my own hook covers.

The business end of your 335 does look slightly different from my 865, as well as the other 335 pics in the thread. On my Mistu, the cap can essentially be regarded as a blind-ended 50mm O.D. turning bored to wall thickness of +/-1.75mm, with the location of the cap slide edges generated by making a full width, straight-across milled cut at +/-42.0mm taken at the diameter. The length on mine is 28.75mm, and the front recess for the mechanism under the needle plate is at 38.0mm. I can get with a cad program later and possibly put it in a form that makes sense.

-DC

Mitsu_a.jpg

Mitsu_b.jpg

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Q&D sketch-

 

-DC

Mitsu_cap.bmp

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Thanks for the part number and measurement references! That CAD sketch is nice - thanks DC!

I'll do some trials over the next few days. I'm hoping to find some suitable, readily available base part that I can easily modify to make these hook cover cups.

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If you have a chance to view the installation tool part, of a Redi-sleeve or Speedy sleeve. These i have used many times with other work and could possibly be used here permanent or in prototype. I suppose the location of one of these in a "size" could be a pain.

Good luck

Floyd

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1 hour ago, Uwe said:

I'll do some trials over the next few days. I'm hoping to find some suitable, readily available base part that I can easily modify to make these hook cover cups.

You may find this of passing interest....

-DC

AAASewing.jpg

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Thanks for that link, DC. I had come across that part on the aaasew.com website and I actually have ordered from them a few times before. It's a moderately clunky ordering process and takes 5-6 weeks if they can get the part.

Meanwhile a made trip to my local hardware store to try out one base part candidate I had high hopes for. 

Alas, it wasn't meant to be ...

I was really hoping these $1.29 chain link fence post caps would work out (original on the right, modified on the left):

IMG_7200.jpgIMG_7202.jpg

The inside diameter is actually big enough for the hook, but only if the cap is lowered and sits centered with the hook. I just put the cap over the hook for these photos. You can see it sits quite a bit below the grooves.

IMG_7196.jpg

When I align it with the grooves, the bottom interferes:

IMG_7199.jpg

 

It was worth a try, though. 

 

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Upon further review, it turns out the cap I spent all of $1.29 and ten minutes on, actually DOES fit slim cylinder arm machines with "normal" size hooks and bobbins. The pictures below show the cap on my Sunstar KM-380. So perhaps the cap will also fit Pfaff 335 machines. The Mitsubishi CU-865 actually has a large hook and uses M-Size bobbins (now I really want to get that CU-865 to work!) Please note how dirty the SunStar KM-380 machine is. People have occasionally teased that my machines are too clean. It took considerable willpower to not wipe this one down before taking pictures - I'm making progress. 

IMG_7203.jpgIMG_7207.jpg

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Uwe

That's an excellent find and work-up seriously!

So now it looks like the main or only place it is secured is on some contact in the grooved sides. Im looking at the first go round of pics. This looks normal or how the original is, is that correct, just for my understanding this morning.

;)I guess back to hunting for bigger fence caps, and no problem there, your on a roll. 

I was looking in some Hot Rod pieces n parts but the prices were still waaay to related to other fun stuff.

 

Good day there

Floyd

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6 hours ago, Uwe said:

Upon further review, it turns out the cap I spent all of $1.29 and ten minutes on, actually DOES fit slim cylinder arm machines with "normal" size hooks and bobbins.

Heck. I already had a 2-1/2" bar of 6061 chucked up to play with....

I didn't have a Pfaff 335 to verify dims with, so I sort of ASSumed the small arm machines shared the arm diameter....as even with the M bobbin, they still call the CU- 865 a "small arm".

-DC

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I stumbled across a suitable set of measuring cups at a local surplus retailer and decided to have a go at a stainless steel cap for my Mitsubishi CU-865.  $10 for a set of four measuring cups and the 1/4-cup in that set was the right candidate. Here are some pictures. It turned out almost as nice as the $125 Pfaff version, I think.

IMG_7428.jpgIMG_7430.jpgIMG_7432.jpgIMG_7440.jpgIMG_7434.jpgIMG_7447.jpgIMG_7448.jpg

 

Edited by Uwe

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Very nice work there Uwe, I almost wish I needed a cap to do the same:huh:

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Nice job, and stainless is definitely the way to go!

-DC

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ha ha - very cool! :spoton:

in the UK someone sell Pfaff covers for a fair price too:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PFAFF-335-BOBBIN-CASE-COVER-CYLINDER-ARM-WALKING-FOOT-INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-/281306490911?hash=item417f2c681f:g:S84AAOxyeZNTVnsc

Edited by Constabulary

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I would like to chime in on the similar matter

My newly restored seiko lsc 8bv lost the hook cover too, i was ready to have it made on my friend's metal workshop. But this morning one of the shop in jakarta called me that parts i needed were found on their stacks, so i picked the hook cover for about US $10 equivalent. Apparently she told me that it was a hook cover for typical brand cylinder bed gc-2605, and it fits right in with no plays whatsoever, moreover it also fits right in on my juki dsc-245 too

For the price, the quality i think on the low side, the stainless plate is thinner and its lighter than the original juki hook cover

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