Cannot seal leather dye. Always color transfer

[Dominicff]

Hi, my problem is :  whatever dye finishes I use, the dye still stains on a wet cloth. 

I have use : carnauba cream, acrylic resolene, sheen from tandy and satin and flat finish from zeli store. All of them with 3 coating.

When passing a dry cloth over my work, it doesn't stain but when rubbing a wet cloth or baby wet, the color transfer to it. 

The one that give me the best results is Tandy waterstains that seems to not color transfer even without finish.

PS : I'm using fiebing and Tandy dye, antique and pro oil.

Edited February 10, 2017 by Dominicff

[Mattsbagger]

Almost impossible to stop wet transfer. Even as on way more experienced member said once. Even the most expensive Italian shoes will transfer dye if you get it wet. If you get no transfer when buffing the .... out of it dry I'd say you are doing the best you can.

[Dominicff]

Thanks it's good to know, although resolene seems a bit over the others finishes. 

P.s. I'm driving an International

[Mattsbagger]

1 hour ago, Dominicff said:

Thanks it's good to know, although resolene seems a bit over the others finishes. 

P.s. I'm driving an International

Me to i hate it.lol I've owned 3 KW over the years but when a company driver you drive what they give you.

[Dwight]

3 hours ago, Dominicff said:

Thanks it's good to know, although resolene seems a bit over the others finishes. 

P.s. I'm driving an International

I don't know how you are doing the Resolene, . . . but I've done some extensive testing on my leather goods I produce, . . . have never been able to get any dye transfer from my belts and holsters, . . . using Feibings oil dye and Resolene.

One of us obviously is doing something the other one is not doing.

My resolene goes on with a brush, . . . and I seriously saturate the leather with it, . . . and it is reduced 50/50 with water.  I brush and brush it on, . . . working up a good bubble type lather, . . . then once I've got that good bubble lather, . . . I brush out the bubbles, . . . let it dry, . . . 

It most certainly is not water proof, . . . but is seriously water resistant, . . . and I've never had a customer complain about dye rub off, . . . and most of my holsters I make are IWB, . . . gets all kinds of sweaty and wet, . . . 

May God bless,

Dwight

[TexasJack]

I think the late Chuck Burrows pointed out in one of his holster videos that dyes have solids in them that remain on the surface.  If you don't let it dry and wipe them off thoroughly, they will end up in the top coating.

 

[Boriqua]

With solvent based be sure to buff well before you go to seal. Your rag should come up clean before you add sealer. I air brush my resolene but I to start with about a 50/50 or 60 water to 40 resolene on my first pass. You can watch it absorb into the leather at this concentration. Your first pass will look almost as if you hadnt applied anything. Then depending on the project I will just keep applying until it is built up to my liking or make a small batch of a higher concentration to apply over my initial watered down application. I no longer have issues with transfer and I have used this method on IWB holsters in Arizona..

You are right about the waterstain .. In places I dont want a big build up of resolene I sometimes use the black or brown Tandy pro waterstain and it is damn near transfer proof. Its a little steep in price but I like the stuff.

[Dominicff]

Great I will try it. Do you buff between each layer of resolene and how long between each application?