How to properly cut leather strips?

[LatigoAmigo]

I've had pretty good luck with this Tandy Lace Cutter. May not work real great with heavier leathers, but it cuts lace like a breeze.

Edited April 28, 2017 by LatigoAmigo

[johnv474]

 

Semi-related question... when you purchase pre-cut strips from a place like Tandy or Springfield, is there a general rule about what part of the hide they're cut from? Like are they typically from a side or belly or could they be from just about anywhere?

The best quality straps would be cut parallel to the spine, ideally ending in the butt area.  However, an awful lot of very good straps/belts are cut from shoulders (second best).  I would take a strap cut from shoulders of a good quality piece of leather over the 'best' cut from a lesser grade of leather.  The worst straps would be cut low on the hide, down near the belly.  That area moves a lot when the animal is alive, and so is much less dense and is much more stretchy.  That's fine for some applications but not for straps.

 

When people sell straps/belt blanks, there is no consistent answer as to what part of the hide they are cut from.   However, long straps over six feet long almost have to be cut from sides because shoulders rarely are that wide.

 

If the strap you get has a very dense area right at the end of the strap, it is likely cut along the spine. Check the back by bending backwards to see how dense the fibers are there.   If the strap is denser in the middle area and less dense at the ends then it is likely cut from shoulders.  The ends get down to the belly area sometimes.

[strathmoredesigns]

On 5/2/2017 at 2:41 AM, johnv474 said:

The best quality straps would be cut parallel to the spine, ideally ending in the butt area.  However, an awful lot of very good straps/belts are cut from shoulders (second best).  I would take a strap cut from shoulders of a good quality piece of leather over the 'best' cut from a lesser grade of leather.  The worst straps would be cut low on the hide, down near the belly.  That area moves a lot when the animal is alive, and so is much less dense and is much more stretchy.  That's fine for some applications but not for straps.

 

When people sell straps/belt blanks, there is no consistent answer as to what part of the hide they are cut from.   However, long straps over six feet long almost have to be cut from sides because shoulders rarely are that wide.

 

If the strap you get has a very dense area right at the end of the strap, it is likely cut along the spine. Check the back by bending backwards to see how dense the fibers are there.   If the strap is denser in the middle area and less dense at the ends then it is likely cut from shoulders.  The ends get down to the belly area sometimes.

This is really helpful, thank you!

[JerseyFirefighter]

The wooden strap cutter works well... until you start getting into full thickness and harness leather. The blades are disposable, best to buy a few 5 packs and keep them handy. You could very well change a blade every side and still come out ahead of the game. My blades on my old wooden cutter would give me 5 or 6 sides of 13-15oz before I knew I had to change/adjust it.

The slipping of the cutter could be three fold:

1 The side isnt properly squared. When there are deviations to the straight line you are forced to "correct" your cutter to compensate exaggerating the slight variance. 

2 You havent tightened the wing nut down hard enough. Couple that with a weak blade and the width will increase as you pull against the leather. The only time I have found myself in this position was with a weak blade with full thickness leather.

3. Slight outward pull of the cutter giving you that horrifying glimpse of daylight between the letter and the cutter handle. You know not only is the strap is wasted unless you can repurpose the good section, but you also have to spend time re-squaring the side. 

 

Funny enough, there is some 10-11oz H.O veg tanned that I have literally broken razor blades on along the back. like 2 cuts off a fresh blade broken. The heavier stuff I use tends not to give me that problem. That said I let my motorized cutter do all the talking nowadays for my strap leather... and the trusty hand cutter for the wider or narrower pieces because forget changing the spacers on that beast.

[LumpenDoodle2]

Just to add my tuppence worth.   For cutting thin strips of leather, I have used several methods, including the Tandy lace cutter.    I finally plumped for the wooden strap cutter for everything. 

Personally, for thin, narrow (to very narrow) strips, I find it easier to control the cut, if I push the leather through the blade.   I use my left hand to guide the leather.

 

Edited May 25, 2017 by LumpenDoodle2

[Handstitched]

G'Day,

Some good hints & tips in there, especially from JLS Leather about moving the blade to make it last longer.

I too have learnt to angle the cutter slightly . 

I mainly use butts & shoulders, but if the belt needs to be longer, then I use a side.

And I guess, if push comes to shove and you run out of blades, use a  ( good) pencil sharpener blade. Thats what I thought they were when I got my very first strap cutter. HA !!  

 

( P.S , I sure I saw scalloped leather blanks in a (old ? ) Tandy  catalogue  once  a long time ago ? Or,  It may have been Birdsall Leather NSW Australia , haven't seen them since. ) 

 

Handstitched