Industrial speed reducer gearbox

[patria]

This morning i came to my friend's metal workshop, initially i asked him to make me a custom stand for one of my cylinder bed and a metal working table.

On the corner i spotted things that would look like an industrial speed reducer 

they were belong to some gentlemen that came to his shop many years ago tried to built some sort of plastic crunching machine but ended up couldn't pay the bill

He said i can have it for free as long as it come to a good use, there are 3:1 and 5:1 ratio

Lately i've been thinking for a simple speed reducer pulley setup like on most youtube videos, my seiko lsc 8bv is now equipped with chinese made servo with 2' pulley, it can slow down alright but it lacks some low torque if i want to run really really slow

Will this industrial speed reducer be a solution? 

Have anyone installed this kind of speed reducer to their sewing machine?

I snag a picture from the web, because. Its hard to photograph the speed reducer gearboxes in his workshop due to plethora of stacked stuffs

Edited February 25, 2017 by patria

[gottaknow]

Technically it could be done, but a regular speed reducer would be much simpler. 

Regards, Eric 

[dikman]

I haven't come across anyone using one of those, but yeah, no reason it couldn't be done. The two shafts at 90 degrees means that the motor will have to be moved and re-mounted. It would be an interesting challenge (and the price is good!).

[JimTimber]

Worm drives don't move too well in reverse (meaning movement applied to the output shaft rather than the input shaft).  It'll be like your brake is locked on all the time unless you're actually using the motor under power to turn the flywheel.

I would not recommend one of those for this application.  It'll be a nightmare to sew with.

[patria]

@JimTimber

tomorrow i will try to move the gearboxes out for trials and further tinkering, i guess you have a point on the reverse thing, But still interested in those gearboxes to work

@gottaknow @dikman

my friend say that he has more type of those gearboxes stacked on those piles, maybe we'll find a better one that suit better for sewing machine application, i'll keep looking and trying to figure it out. 

Edited February 26, 2017 by patria

[Diyer]

That picture looks a lot like the standard type of gearbox used in a lot of agricultural applications. Look up PTO gearboxes to see what is available. Thre are also a lot of different types and sizes available for industrial applications.

For anything driving at right angles- there is power loss in that configuration. Bevel gears inside mean there would not be as much problem going in reverse, as with worm and wheel.

[CowboyBob]

Here's one we had made up with a 2"small pulley & a 8" large pulley,they work great!

I've seen pulleys like this in clothes dryers that could be adaptable real easy.

Edited February 26, 2017 by CowboyBob

[JimTimber]

I could've gotten cheaper pulleys, but these will add more mass to my flywheel.  The surplus bearing shaft was just a little too short so I got creative and fixed it.

I still need to make my bracket and get it mounted.  This'll go under my 211G with the servo.


Ag gear reducers are way overbuilt (mine's way overbuilt too, that's a huge fan bearing with a 3/4" shank) and will have a lot of input loss from the oil bath.  Not as bad as a worm drive, but not as good as a typical ball bearing jack shaft like everyone uses for sewing machine reducers.  You're going to need 2 pulleys with any gearbox you choose just to adapt it.  The bearing I bought was $6.  Sometimes buying something specific is cheaper than adapting something that's free.

[catskin]

3 hours ago, CowboyBob said:

Here's one we had made up with a 2"small pulley & a 8" large pulley,they work great!

I've seen pulleys like this in clothes dryers that could be adaptable real easy.

Bob is right. I have taken one out of a OLD clothes dryer and used it on my Adler 20-2 for 30 years. It has just a bushing not a bearing but a few drops of motor oil once in a while has kept it going.  The catch is it seems the dryer has to be OLD, OLD, OLD, to have them but the price is good.  FREE. 

[CowboyBob]

If your machine has a small handwheel under 3 1/2" go with at least a 3-1 reduction,we use a 4-1 on our box style & it works great,other people have also made reducers from the old-style belt driven grinder arbors.

arbor.html

Edited February 27, 2017 by CowboyBob

[dikman]

" Sometimes buying something specific is cheaper than adapting something that's free."

True, but sometimes it's the principle......

[JimTimber]

17 minutes ago, dikman said:

" Sometimes buying something specific is cheaper than adapting something that's free."

True, but sometimes it's the principle......

Oh, I can relate to that too.

[NMcCool]

Have you explored going to a smaller drive pulley on the (clutch or servo) motor? I may have missed a post that says you did, sorry.

This will reduce the input to the sewing machine's pulley, and slow it down. Try the calculator on bricklayer.com, it will help a lot. Personally, I dropped down to a 1 7/8 inch pulley on my clutch motor, and RPM dropped to the 820 range. To finish the job, bought a "router speed control", plugged it inline, and with it bottomed out, I can sew on my Adler slow enough to count the stitches.

Counting the new pulley, belt, and speed control, I have just under 60 bucks invested.

Note-the speed control will NOT work on any motor that has capacitors. FYI

[patria]

i ended up had him made a simple reducer set up inspired by uwe's set up i found on this forum

it will be finished next week, and i'll try to post some progress later on how slow and the torque