venator Report post Posted March 9, 2017 Am I the only person here with a nemesis? For me it's wallets. For the life of me I cannot make a workable bi-fold wallet that I'd be happy to sell and I don't get why i have such issues. Today I tried again to make one and it wasn't perfect but it was going really well. . .right up until I had to stitch the outside on then the leather slipped (despite glue and basting tape), stuff moved, stitching went to hell and didn't catch all the layers and I'm almost ready to just quit leather working when this happens. It's killing my business too since I have lots of orders for wallets. . .if I could make one that I'd be willing to sell. If I make them out of vegetan (5oz outside and 2/3 for pockets) they're way too thick for people to want. When I try something thin like calf skin this happens (since I have to fold edges etc). Gah!!!!! Sorry, just venting. The wallet today was doing super well . . .until the last bloody step and then bam. . .no more wallet. Sigh. You can see the horrific failure here: http://vkleathers.com/2017/03/09/project-68-wallet-redux/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tugadude Report post Posted March 9, 2017 Can you detail your process a bit more? Looks like you are leaving excess and folding your edges then trimming. Is that right? Tell me more about how you mark your stitch lines, which side you mark and how you are making your stitching holes. Will try to help! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted March 10, 2017 Try an extra holder or two in the way of binding clips ... those spring loaded paper clips. Just be sure to put a small piece of leather between both sides of it and your project so you don't mark it up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AussieMade Report post Posted March 10, 2017 Check this video out, Leodis Leather makes some awesome stuff and has great videos on youtube as well: https://youtu.be/4meaY6lWOMw Here is a great pattern I think I found on this forums patterns page for a very simple bifold. My partner has made two already using this pattern. This is one of the ones she made. The other is stitched only, I will try to find it and post it as well. 4-Slot Bifold Directions.pdf Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted March 10, 2017 I'm a novice myself, but I will offer this up..... Slow it down a little. Take a step back and simplify a bit. I started with two wuta templates. The complex stuff will come, but it will take both of us awhile to get there. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brianm77 Report post Posted March 10, 2017 And possibly longer dry time Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
venator Report post Posted March 21, 2017 Well, another drunk monkey attempt at a wallet. The stitching was perfect on the side I could see and somehow totally missed the interior of the wallet. . .depsite them being perfectly lined up and secured. hell, they were still perfectly aligned when I finished. I hate wallets hate hate hate. however if I ever want to make money at this it seems there a great way to go. I appreciate the advice but I've tried every template, watched every video and as soon as it comes to that final assembly it goes completely to hell. http://vkleathers.com/2017/03/21/project-80-bifold-wallet/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
venator Report post Posted March 21, 2017 On 3/9/2017 at 10:42 PM, bikermutt07 said: I'm a novice myself, but I will offer this up..... Slow it down a little. Take a step back and simplify a bit. I started with two wuta templates. The complex stuff will come, but it will take both of us awhile to get there. I've done plenty of these and have zero issues. Unfortunately they're not saleable. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted March 21, 2017 7 minutes ago, venator said: I've done plenty of these and have zero issues. Unfortunately they're not saleable. Yeah, sorry for that. I carry one and the other was a gift. I noticed on your problems you are using a machine. Have you tried handsewing a few? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
venator Report post Posted March 21, 2017 1 minute ago, bikermutt07 said: Yeah, sorry for that. I carry one and the other was a gift. I noticed on your problems you are using a machine. Have you tried handsewing a few? No, If I can't run it through the machine it's not worth doing. Hand sewing takes far too long and would result in me needing to up my prices. Plus my hands go numb quickly, I'd have to take probably 3 hours to hand sew a wallet if not more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wulfing Report post Posted March 21, 2017 Im having similar trouble. I think the trick is to use really thin leather for the inserts. Slightly thicker leather for the outside piece. Use a v gouger to help the wallet bend. Make a good size gap between the 2 halves so it bends. Less is more so no need for 20 inserts... People who carry more than 4 cards can buy from somewhere else lol. Concentrate on straight neat or parallel lines with leather and stitching. A lot of what I see other leather workers doing I don't like or want to do better and after working with the real thing I cant stand the style you find in the shop anymore..... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
venator Report post Posted March 21, 2017 The challenge for me is every person who asks for a wallet (and I've had quite a few) all need to carry 10 or more cards and unfortunately that's a lot of business to have to keep sayin no to. Plus honestly the wallets I do while they're well finished and look good look like "leatherworker" wallets not like something someone who actually has money would purchase and that drives me nuts. And with regards to thinning things they can only be made so thin. I can get vegetan down to around 1oz, sometimes 3/4 oz with my splitter, the skiver usually won't go below 1oz before it eats it. Hell with this wallet I threw out about 3x as much leather as I used because the splitter kept eating it because I wanted it so thin. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stetson912 Report post Posted March 22, 2017 I feel your pain, I'm no good at wallets, but Ill keep trying until I get it. It is frustrating but it'll pay off one day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NVLeatherWorx Report post Posted March 22, 2017 1 hour ago, venator said: No, If I can't run it through the machine it's not worth doing. Hand sewing takes far too long and would result in me needing to up my prices. Plus my hands go numb quickly, I'd have to take probably 3 hours to hand sew a wallet if not more. Takes about 25 minutes, including "punching" the holes. I suffer from Arthritis in my hands (all those years as a combat soldier getting your hands smashed one way or another) and can still pull it off without the pain taking over. If you are doing just a plain wallet (no stamping/tooling) then you can get away with using 3/4 oz. for the back and 2/3 oz. for interior parts. I use the "T" style pocket design so that the edges (all of them) are not overly thick. Just an FYI though: the thinner the leather, the easier it is for something to slip out of place and create an issue. It appears that you are trying to create what could be considered as a "designer" style product; if you ever have the chance to take a close look at those high-end/high-priced designer wallets you will notice that they aren't very perfect looking either, you just get confused by the all of the "bling" effect items which distract you from the reality that it isn't all that great looking when you focus on it. Don't give up on wallets as this seems to be the market for the time being; it is about 80% of my business right now so that is what I am focusing on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stetson912 Report post Posted March 22, 2017 This is my latest attempt. The alignment is off and the binding wasn't good either. It ended up being too short to cover enough of the edge to stitch right and it's a mess internally with the pockets. It's all 2/3 oz leather so maybe I need to use thicker leather for the back. Thanks also wrinkles on the face when folded which isn't fun.and cards don't fit in the pockets either... At least not easily haha But hey, live and learn. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted March 22, 2017 39 minutes ago, Stetson912 said: This is my latest attempt. The alignment is off and the binding wasn't good either. It ended up being too short to cover enough of the edge to stitch right and it's a mess internally with the pockets. It's all 2/3 oz leather so maybe I need to use thicker leather for the back. Thanks also wrinkles on the face when folded which isn't fun.and cards don't fit in the pockets either... At least not easily haha But hey, live and learn. I don't think the leather is too thin. Maybe it is too soft. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stetson912 Report post Posted March 22, 2017 It is soft and nice leather. I also have trouble stitching thinner leather. I tend to over-tension it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted March 22, 2017 Kind of looks like a machine problem. Perhaps the machine is not feeding the leather through properly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stetson912 Report post Posted March 22, 2017 I 7 minutes ago, cjartist said: Kind of looks like a machine problem. Perhaps the machine is not feeding the leather through properly? I'm not familiar with machines. I don't own one nor can use one I'm afraid. If you are infact referring to venator's pictures then please ignore this haha. And apologies if I overstepped my bounds here, I'm still trying to get used to the forum etiquette. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted March 22, 2017 My apologies Stetson. I did think you were in fact the thread starter who said he won't sew by hand. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
venator Report post Posted March 22, 2017 3 hours ago, nstarleather said: The main problem I'm seeing is that doing a "folded edge" design is many times harder than the normal bifolds most of us do. When you do turned edges a lot can go wrong, you're adding extra layers which means you either have to skive the edges precisely or use thin/soft leather, which isn't ideal for a wallet. Many of the imported wallets you find with that type of design actually use lots of non-leather parts (linings and stiffeners) to make it easier. Yes I've seen quality wallets with this design (Moore and Giles), but you're taking about a $400+ wallet ($500+ for alligator). Try a non-turned edge design (if you haven't already), you'll find it 1000x easier. The wallet I tried yesterday was a non-turned edge and it didn't go well either. However they always look so messy. . . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
venator Report post Posted March 22, 2017 13 hours ago, NVLeatherWorx said: Takes about 25 minutes, including "punching" the holes. I suffer from Arthritis in my hands (all those years as a combat soldier getting your hands smashed one way or another) and can still pull it off without the pain taking over. If you are doing just a plain wallet (no stamping/tooling) then you can get away with using 3/4 oz. for the back and 2/3 oz. for interior parts. I use the "T" style pocket design so that the edges (all of them) are not overly thick. Just an FYI though: the thinner the leather, the easier it is for something to slip out of place and create an issue. It appears that you are trying to create what could be considered as a "designer" style product; if you ever have the chance to take a close look at those high-end/high-priced designer wallets you will notice that they aren't very perfect looking either, you just get confused by the all of the "bling" effect items which distract you from the reality that it isn't all that great looking when you focus on it. Don't give up on wallets as this seems to be the market for the time being; it is about 80% of my business right now so that is what I am focusing on. It's great that it takes you 25 minutes, if it took me that long it might work but as I said for me hand stitching this is a 3 hour jobs with all the breaks I have to take since I can't feel my hands. . . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted March 22, 2017 I was just wondering of you have tried using fabric to make the card pockets. This video is helpful and it may minimize the layers of leather that you are joining together. I have not made any wallets except for a tandy kit once. If I do, I think I will try to use this strategy. Here is the same idea using ribbon. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tinkerton Report post Posted March 29, 2017 On 2017-03-21 at 5:49 PM, venator said: Well, another drunk monkey attempt at a wallet. The stitching was perfect on the side I could see and somehow totally missed the interior of the wallet. . .depsite them being perfectly lined up and secured. hell, they were still perfectly aligned when I finished. I hate wallets hate hate hate. however if I ever want to make money at this it seems there a great way to go. I appreciate the advice but I've tried every template, watched every video and as soon as it comes to that final assembly it goes completely to hell. http://vkleathers.com/2017/03/21/project-80-bifold-wallet/ With that last one, it almost looks like your machine or needle may be out of alignment. Also, do you take your time with the stitching, or do you rush it through? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BenjaminEstberg Report post Posted April 7, 2017 When we sew leather to leather , if it isn't already tacked together with some barge glue then we have to put a piece of lining ( backing for embroidery) in-between the leather to keep it from slipping against itself during the sewing process. Maybe this will help... Keep at it...moving forward never backwards....and CAN'T MEANS WON'T!!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
