Needle hitting bobbin case

[Bru]

I took the feed dog off of my Pfaff 335 recently and noticed that the needle (a brand new, straight size 21) hits the slot in the bobbin case on the right hand side (as I'm facing the machine.  See the pic below).  I know that there's a way to move the needle assembly from right to left, but my problem is that the needle is already in the center of the hole in the feed dog.  So, if I move the needle to the left then it gets out of center in the feed dog hole.

I've also tried adjusting the bobbin case & hook assembly slightly to the right, but it's already as far to the right as it will go.  

I'm stumped.  Seems like the only way to align everything is to file just a little bit of material off of the connecting end of the bobbin case assembly piece to allow it to move slightly right - but I'm hesitant to do that.  Does anyone else have any ideas?

 

Thanks,

Mike

[CowboyBob]

 Is it sewing ok?

[Bru]

14 minutes ago, CowboyBob said:

 Is it sewing ok?

Yes - sewing forward seems fine, but backtacking is problematic.  The stitches typically fray and bunch up right away after going 3 back and 3 forward.

I should also mention that the hook also hits the needle as well, so moving everything back about 1/16" would solve a few problems.

 

 

Edited April 15, 2017 by Bru

[RockyAussie]

I have not had the said problem on my 335 but have had on my 441 and although I had done a timing as per a video I found online, I found a more accurate method in a manual which did then solve the problem. 1/16" would be way to much removal I think also.This link may help-http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/65098-pfaff-335-timing-issue/

or this one-http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/54120-help-timing-a-pfaff-335/

Best of luck Brian

 

[CowboyBob]

What size thread? 

[trash treasure]

Can you move the BUSHING that the hook shaft runs in ?

On some machines, the bushing is held in place by a set screw, and you can shift it a bit forward or back.

Edited April 17, 2017 by trash treasure

[Bru]

On 4/16/2017 at 5:54 PM, CowboyBob said:

What size thread? 

92, though the needle hits the hook and side of the slot without any thread in it

11 hours ago, trash treasure said:

Can you move the BUSHING that the hook shaft runs in ?

On some machines, the bushing is held in place by a set screw, and you can shift it a bit forward or back.

Hmmm...I'm not sure.  I didn't see that in the adjustment manual but maybe I missed it.  I'll give it another look.

[gottaknow]

Down and dirty fix if all else fails. Remove the hook and grind off a wee bit of the hub so it goes farther in. Shouldn't take much. Just make sure you know how to re-time the hook to the needle. Your hook won't last long if it's hitting the needle. 

Regards, Eric 

[Bru]

33 minutes ago, gottaknow said:

Down and dirty fix if all else fails. Remove the hook and grind off a wee bit of the hub so it goes farther in. Shouldn't take much. Just make sure you know how to re-time the hook to the needle. Your hook won't last long if it's hitting the needle. 

Regards, Eric 

I'm thinking that this is what I'll need to do.  The lack of left to right adjustment space seems to be the root of my problems.  Thanks Eric.

[Hockeymender]

Mike,

Completely off topic, but you might want to consider using 69 thread for doing gloves. Just food for thought.

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

See attached, it looks like this machine possibly butts the hook up against the bushing.  They way I would do this is to loosen the bushing set screw from below the cylinder, and then use a soft metal large dia punch, think brass or aluminum to strike the hook base (NOT the inside hook/bobbin case basket).  It does appear that if you go too far, you will end up with this shaft shifting from side to side, not a good thing with the hook hanging off the end of it.  It appears that the bushing stays against the hook to prevent this shift.

Hope this helps

 

[Gregg From Keystone Sewing]

See attached, this is from a newer frame 335, and the bushing set screw comes in from behind as opposed to below, but this is certainly should help.  

335(8-96_Pages.pdf

[Bru]

17 hours ago, Gregg From Keystone Sewing said:

See attached, this is from a newer frame 335, and the bushing set screw comes in from behind as opposed to below, but this is certainly should help.  

335(8-96_Pages.pdf

Thank you, Gregg.  I'll give this a try tonight.  Much appreciated!

[Bru]

23 hours ago, Hockeymender said:

Mike,

Completely off topic, but you might want to consider using 69 thread for doing gloves. Just food for thought.

69 for player gloves?  I watched your youtube "thread" video a while back which said that you were using 138 for those.  Have you changed your mind?

[Hockeymender]

5 hours ago, Bru said:

69 for player gloves?  I watched your youtube "thread" video a while back which said that you were using 138 for those.  Have you changed your mind?

I really need to dump that vid, it's ancient. I went with 69 quite a few years ago. Much better results, and with properly tuned tension the durability is as good. Not as much thread exposed to the friction of the stick thus less stitching failure. 

[Bru]

9 hours ago, Hockeymender said:

I really need to dump that vid, it's ancient. I went with 69 quite a few years ago. Much better results, and with properly tuned tension the durability is as good. Not as much thread exposed to the friction of the stick thus less stitching failure. 

That's a great tip.  Thanks Joe!

[Wizcrafts]

Number 69 (T70) bonded nylon thread has a tensile strength of 11 pounds per stitch. This should be fine for most gloves. One might use #92 in leather/suede reinforced areas.