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Thanks leecopp - I also have a copy of that manual which I downloaded from the web - it's definitely more helpful than the consew manual. I also have a copy of the parts manual which I downloaded from South Star Supply online which has been very helpful when dismantling and reassembling for cleaning etc. When I bought the machine many of the parts were not attached, there was just a big bag of random screws and rods and things.

NCArcher - that is indeed a very kind offer. I live near the airport. I am not financially ready to invest in a servo motor yet but will definitely be in touch for advice when I do. In the meantime I have adjusted the brackets that attach the foot pedal, and I can control the machine fairly well. I have found this is also easier when the room is warmer (its winter in Aus currently). It seems a bit smoother rather than jarring fast and slow.

I have also found a bunch of extra parts which I will post a photo of. I think they are additional feet with an edge guide, perhaps for top stitching? as well as a flat plate which I have no idea of how to attach, plus a roller guide. I'm hoping that if I learn how to use these, I can really start to sew in straight lines!

20170701_150240.jpg

Please don't laugh - but is this what this flat piece is for?

 

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So I have no idea what the big screw is for or even if it goes with the machine, I also can't work our where to put the weird hook with the slotted end but I'm pretty sure the net thing is a roller foot or edge guide of some type? In the next photo these seem to be feet for working with big edges, like the beading on car seats or something?

Appreciate any tips here. I read the other thread on home made edge guides, but they didn't really help me with the above attachments. Thanks. 

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Posted (edited)

Yep, first one is a basic edge guide. Only problem with attaching it to that plate is you have to make sure that plate can't slip back, otherwise the edge guide will move.

I'm no expert on feet, I'll leave that to others.The hook thingy fits into a hole along the back edge of the bed and is a pivot for tilting the machine back.

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You can see the round bit screwed to the table that it fits in to. This is an older style of tilt.

The roller wheel is a roller feed, used instead of a presser foot. Not a lot of use on a walking foot machine!

Edited by dikman

Machines wot I have - Singer 51W59; Singer 331K4; Seiko STH-8BLD; Pfaff 335; CB4500.

Chinese shoe patcher; Singer 201K (old hand crank)

  • 2 years later...
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Posted

An update to this thread for any newcomers with an old Consew that may have similar problems and be reading this right now. Despite the guidance provided in the machines manual (and the Singer manual which is virtually the same) my machine in particular does not really like it when you mess around with thread sizes and needle gauges. It is very happy at the moment sewing with Tkt 60 (v46, T45) thread and a 14/90 needle. Also the instruction manual says to put the needle in the wrong way around, it could just be the way I was reading it, but the scoop out section near the eye of the needle needs to face TOWARDS the bobbin  housing. 

If I put Tkt 30 (V92, T90) and a 19/120 needle, the machine will sew for a while but then gets very unhappy again and the thread tangles. Same happens with Tkt 40 (V69, T70) and a 16/100 needle. I put the smaller and needle and thread back in and it's happy again. Some of these combinations seem to have the thread a bit fat for the needle, like there is some friction so by going up a needle size it does make a difference, but I think I still have some tension issues on my machine. So this is probably just an idiosyncrasy of my particular machine or maybe I don't know quite enough about how to adjust it properly yet. I was hoping to use bigger thread to mimic the look of hand stitching on thicker leather, but I am happy for now with the look of the ticket 30 thread. 

Also the addition of the servo motor really was a game changer (thanks to the advice of users on this forum for guiding me through that!). 

I have also had the machine serviced by a professional since then and there were a few issues with it. I had the setting of the servo motor too slow, he adjusted it up to 20 and that made a big difference. Also the check spring part featured in the video above by Uwe, the serviceman actually bent the already bent part of this in further as it was not preventing the thread from jumping out during sewing. Note - this was a brand new part purchased from SouthStar (http://southstarsupply.com ) who I totally recommend if you need Consew parts. There was nothing wrong with the part as such, but the modification made a difference on my machine. 

Happy sewing! and don't give up, it takes perserverence!

ps. I did also end up figuring out what all of the attachments, edge guides etc do. 

Posted

Tangling underneath is almost always a upper tension problem ,try to tighten it a turn or 2.

111w threading 001.jpg

Bob Kovar
Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd.
3631 Marine Rd
Toledo,Ohio 43609
1-866-362-7397

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Posted

Thanks CowboyBob - I am taking more notice of this top thread tension now and as you said it has reduced the number of times that the thread tangles underneath. 

  • 4 years later...
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Posted (edited)
On 6/25/2017 at 6:57 AM, Carrie88 said:

Thanks so much for the video, Uwe. It was very helpful and seems to have solved my tension problem plus my thread has stopped breaking. I think I was also using a needle that was too small for the thread - and it was kind of piercing the thread and tangling up. I have read all of the threads (no pun intended :) ) on this forum and so I have tried to match a few different thread sizes to needles sizes, for sewing lighter leather for bags etc. The thread sizes are so confusing, between the tex, the ticket and whatever other number they have. And then here in Australia, the numbers seem different again. I've just played around for a few hours and managed to sew a few things - but I can see it really takes practice and experience to create nice work with these machines. Now I just have to get the beast under my control - it's so powerful and just takes off if I put my foot down too hard. This is a wonderful forum for beginners, thanks to all of you for your help. Carrie. 

I also had problems with control of my consew 226. I replaced the bottom pulley, the one down by the motor, with a smaller one. Poof, problem solved. I have total control now and am able to make those nice straight lines I need for making my bags. Good luck! 

Edited by Northmount
Fixed auto correct to consew

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