Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted June 28, 2017 Members Report Posted June 28, 2017 What heavy stitcher has the easiest most accurate stitch length adjustment Quote
Uwe Posted June 28, 2017 Report Posted June 28, 2017 (edited) Well, in my book that rules out anything with a stitch length lever that flips up and down. Those settings are mere suggestions and repeatability is all but absent. Dials for stitch length adjustments are a step in the right direction, which only the modern heavy stitchers have. Having two dials to pre-set two stitch length and switching between them with a button press is easy/convenient. Examples: Durkopp Adler 969 and Juki LS-2342H The most precise and repeatable stitch length machines are probably electronic wheel driven machines with stepper motor drives, like the Pfaff 1591, but those are medium duty machines: Edited June 28, 2017 by Uwe Quote Uwe (pronounced "OOH-vuh" ) Links: Videos
Members Constabulary Posted June 28, 2017 Members Report Posted June 28, 2017 impressive machines these Pfaffs - wondering if there will be someone who will (or can) restore them in 50 - 75 years Quote ~ Keep "OLD CAST IRON" alive - it´s worth it ~ Machines in use: - Singer 111G156 - Singer 307G2 - Singer 29K71 - Singer 212G141 - Singer 45D91 - Singer 132K6 - Singer 108W20 - Singer 51WSV2 - Singer 143W2
Members Matt S Posted June 28, 2017 Members Report Posted June 28, 2017 The Pearson/BUSM no6 harness stitcher uses a rotating dial with the stitch length indicated in stitches per inch, which is always accurate when stitching the heavy, stiff leathers for which it was designed as (a) it is a needle feed, so no chance of slippage (b) in normal use the needles are kept straight by us of the needle steady and (c) it has a true square motion drive on the needle, as opposed to the more common pendulum motion which changes stitch length depending on the thickness of the material. Shame they stopped making them about forty years ago... Out of interest, why do you want this feature? I have never felt at a disadvantage using a machine without it -- I always use some scrap of the same substance and thickness as the project as a test sample, and that can be used to check stitch length. Quote
Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted June 28, 2017 Author Members Report Posted June 28, 2017 To match the stitching when Re lining saddles. I have not had good luck with the 441 and adler machines in the past. I have a pearson but the stitch length knob does not work oro]rely. Maybe it just needs to be corrected Quote
Members Matt S Posted June 28, 2017 Members Report Posted June 28, 2017 1 hour ago, T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery said: To match the stitching when Re lining saddles. I have not had good luck with the 441 and adler machines in the past. I have a pearson but the stitch length knob does not work oro]rely. Maybe it just needs to be corrected Ah yes I remember you had some issues with stitch length. Did you look at the tightness of the gibs as I suggested? Quote
Moderator Wizcrafts Posted June 28, 2017 Moderator Report Posted June 28, 2017 You might inquire in your general area to see if there are any Mennonite or Amish harness shops. If so, ask if any of them have a Union Lockstitch machine. I have owned two of them and they will match holes well. They have true square drive and needle feed (with a jump foot) and the needles don't bend much if you are using a #3 to #4 needle (perfect for 6 cord or #346 thread). It would be worth your time to check out one in working condition. The Campbell Randall lockstitch machines are even more reliable feeders because the awl feeds the leather. Quote Posted IMHO, by Wiz My current crop of sewing machines: Cowboy CB4500, Singer 107w3, Singer 139w109, Singer 168G101, Singer 29k71, Singer 31-15, Singer 111w103, Singer 211G156, Adler 30-7 on power stand, Techsew 2700, Fortuna power skiver and a Pfaff 4 thread 2 needle serger.
Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted June 28, 2017 Author Members Report Posted June 28, 2017 MattS I have the pearson sewing really nice right now but the knob that is supposed to adjust the stitch length don't adjust anything it just spins and the stitch remains the same. I love the machine but it's just sewing 7 to the inch Quote
Members Matt S Posted June 28, 2017 Members Report Posted June 28, 2017 49 minutes ago, T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery said: MattS I have the pearson sewing really nice right now but the knob that is supposed to adjust the stitch length don't adjust anything it just spins and the stitch remains the same. I love the machine but it's just sewing 7 to the inch Does the screw on the back of the stitch length adjusting dial touch the corresponding screw on the large arm at the top back of the machine at any point? It should touch as you turn the handle somewhere between 12 o'clock and 1 o'clock. Quote
Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted June 29, 2017 Author Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 I'll get some.pics in the.morning but if the knob is turmed till the bolt touches each other it sews almost in the same hole. I think that's right. I adjusted the screw behind the arm till I got 7 stitches per inch and left it. I need to go back and get it right Quote
Members leathersmyth Posted June 29, 2017 Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 Yes, You need to address and adjust the pearson stitch length adjustment proper before it will work. Mine can adjust Any stitch i want and match any stitch i need... So works flawless to match old stitch holes... Quote
Members Matt S Posted June 29, 2017 Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 4 hours ago, T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery said: I'll get some.pics in the.morning but if the knob is turmed till the bolt touches each other it sews almost in the same hole. I think that's right. I adjusted the screw behind the arm till I got 7 stitches per inch and left it. I need to go back and get it right There is definitely something not right with your machine, those two bolts should touch at all stitch lengths when the wheel is between 12 and 1 o'clock. Luckiily Pearsons are easy to adjust as most of the timing is fixed from the camming surfaces on the main balance wheel. Quote
Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted June 29, 2017 Author Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 Where should I start looking to get it where it will adjust Quote
Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted June 29, 2017 Author Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 If I set the dial on 0 as far as it will go it will sew 5 spi. If I set it on 12 it will sew 9. So it is set on 5 and sewing 5 1/2 very tight clean nice stitches but no adjustment that I can see with tge dial Quote
Members Matt S Posted June 29, 2017 Members Report Posted June 29, 2017 There is a screw on the upper arm of the Y-shaped casting at the back of the machine. This screw contacts the screw on which turns the stitch length wheel (after 12 o'clock). This rear screw may need adjusting to make the stitch length correspond with the stitch length dial. Remember to slack off its locking screw first though. If this doesn't fix the problem, you probably have to adjust the tension on the gibs of the needle block. Quote
Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted June 30, 2017 Author Members Report Posted June 30, 2017 I have tried adjusting that screw you were talking about but I think it's something else. That screw dont seem to effect it too much. I slacked off the set screw and moved that screw a lot in as well as out it don't touch tge adjusting knob hardly at all Quote
Members Matt S Posted June 30, 2017 Members Report Posted June 30, 2017 Then you need to look at the needle block. If the tension on the gibs is excessive or unbalanced, it can cause the issues you describe. It's one of the few issues with the design of the no6, the forward movement of the needle after completion of the stitch relies on a relatively small spring. A little friction or dirt and it simply won't cope. Quote
480volt Posted July 1, 2017 Report Posted July 1, 2017 Can one of you Pearson owners post a few pictures of the top and back of your machine? The vast majority of posted photos are taken from the front, which does not show the drive mechanism. Quote
Members sandyt Posted July 3, 2017 Members Report Posted July 3, 2017 Sorry for the dust....I collect it. Quote
Members Matt S Posted July 3, 2017 Members Report Posted July 3, 2017 Sandy is that the cable for an electrically heated needle block? Quote
Members sandyt Posted July 3, 2017 Members Report Posted July 3, 2017 Hi Matt, Yes, it has 3 heating blocks. Needle block (head), wax pot, and shuttle race ('cylinder arm'). Sandy. Quote
Members Matt S Posted July 3, 2017 Members Report Posted July 3, 2017 Of be great to see some details of your heater blocks Sandy, I understand they are even rarer than paraffin or gas jets. Do you use them? Quote
480volt Posted July 3, 2017 Report Posted July 3, 2017 Perfect, thanks for the photos Sandy. Ken Quote
Members sandyt Posted July 3, 2017 Members Report Posted July 3, 2017 No problem Ken. Matt S, I don't use them. I don't even use the pearson itseld often. Hardly actually. Never found the time to make it stitch consistantly. I have to buy a new bobin tension strip first. It works with a glued home made one, but not great. And I nead a needle guide. Martin's harness sells them. Someday when I have a bigger order, I will order everything at once. I am not in a hurry. It looks pretty cool in my living room as a dust collector. Underneath the race there is also a heating block. I can't take a picture of it without dismantling it. Sandy. Quote
Members T Moore Medicine Hat Saddlery Posted July 4, 2017 Author Members Report Posted July 4, 2017 Looks like my machine might be way off adjustment. The screw that adjusts the stitch length dosent meet up straight with the dial screw on the back side Quote
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