Help Applying Saddle Stitching to Tool Bag Design

[OrthodoxMason]

Hey All,

I'm in the process of developing durable, hand stitched tool bags for tradesmen. The first iteration I'm working on is a traditional carpenter's bag. By trade, I'm a builder who specializes in structural masonry and timber framing. I began leather working as a way to replace the old Medallion bags that I had used for years and were falling apart. I'm quite happy with where I have landed design-wise, but believe there are a few production processes that need improvement. Generally speaking, I'm looking for any guidance on how to approach stitching through two layers of 8-10oz. leather in an efficient and frustration free manner. I'm a believer that hard work will always be hard work, but it shouldn't be frustrating. Right now, there are a few of aspects that exasperate me, and I'd like to iron them out if I can. Below, I've posted a brief overview of my stitching process and a few pictures that hopefully provide further insight. 

 

• I plot out all of my stitching lines and use a groove set to hollow out a channel for the stitching to lay flush into.
• I use a SEIWA  6x4.5mm Stitching Iron to mark and puncture all of my runs of stitching on a cutting pad.
• I use large 000 harness needles with 1.0mm tiger thread waxed.
• I use a french styled stitching clam on some aspects of the bag, but the doubled up edges don't seem to provide enough material to clamp down. I've also used a table vise to good effect as well. Also, I sometimes wet and hammer flat the edges before stitching them in place.
• Currently, I rely on a little scrap leather to help push the needles through. I know I need to buy or made a some sort of glove to keep my fingers free, but should I be having to force my needles through?
  
  Hopefully, this provides enough background to my current progress and situation. Let me know what I need to explain further, and most importantly what areas I need to improve upon. Thanks for taking the time to read this and help me out. 
  
  Here is a link to an imager album that I had already compiled featuring pictures of my work with a further description.
  
  Best regards,
  
  Patrick
  
  P.S. Let me know if I am formatted my post incorrectly, or have posted in the wrong place. I am still learning the rope of this forum. Thanks again
  
   

[Dan Miller]

I'm just learning hand-stitching myself, so can't really help you with your questions. I just wanted to say that I really like your tool pouches.

I've also done a bit of timber framing myself.

 

Cheers,
Dan

[cradom]

Well, as for pushing needles - this https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/sewing-palm-right-hand

As for problems stitching, are you using an awl? Sometimes a pricking iron/ stitching tool wont punch all the way through the leather. I recommend getting a good awl and blade and using that to open holes to stitch.

I'm not qualified to recommend a brand but it doesn't have to be expensive. I use a Barry King with a Tandy blade (after much sharpening, will try another brand next time).

[480volt]

I stitch with a pricking iron and awl. Pricking irons are used only to lay out stitch locations, not actually punch through the work. I own a couple very old sewing palms from when I used to sew Axminster and Wilton carpets and a several sizes of thimbles. I will occasionally wear a thimble while stitching, if the going is tough, but a traditional sewing palm just doesn't work for how I stitch: too clumsy, wrong angle.

[Tugadude]

I think your work looks great.  A couple points to consider.  First, I like that you are using red Loctite on the brass fasteners, but personally, I think you are overdoing them.  I mean I think some are unnecessary, such as the ones on the pencil pouches.  Stitching alone is incredibly strong if done correctly.  1.0mm Tiger thread is very strong.  

You might try smaller needles.  Maybe a John James #2.  The ones you are using are bound to get hung up and hard to press through.  I see no problem with using the Seiwa chisels and you can do each layer individually so long as you take pains to ensure the holes line up.  Nigel Armitage has videos where he discusses the process.  But even if you are using the chisels, you could use an awl to expand the holes just prior to stitching.  Don't use a sharp awl as you don't want to cut the holes bigger, just stretch them temporarily.

I've seen tool pouches made of leather and canvas and leather and nylon, but yours are something that will really become special to the owner.

Good work!

[Tugadude]

  On 7/20/2017 at 2:34 AM, 480volt said:

I stitch with a pricking iron and awl. Pricking irons are used only to lay out stitch locations, not actually punch through the work. I own a couple very old sewing palms from when I used to sew Axminster and Wilton carpets and a several sizes of thimbles. I will occasionally wear a thimble while stitching, if the going is tough, but a traditional sewing palm just doesn't work for how I stitch: too clumsy, wrong angle.

Expand  

You are correct but I think the OP is using stitching chisels which are diamond shaped but not tapered and are designed to punch all the way through.  The newer irons are making decent looking stitching attainable more quickly than pure awl work.  I do both, but when I can get by with a chisel, I do.  YMMV.

Edited July 20, 2017 by Tugadude

[byggyns]

I'll second the suggestion of adding an awl to your stitching. I use the diamond chisels for laying out my stitching on holsters, but when I stitch I have an awl and use it for each stitch. When you are punching through 2-4 layers of 7-9 oz veg tan (sometimes even more), you need the extra help. I'll also say to go with smaller needles. I use a #2 John James for 1 mm thread.

When I sharpen my awl, I do it the way that Stohlman lays out in his books. Just sharpen the front edges, leave the shoulders blunt. After I push it through, I give a little twist to temporarily open the hole (which is why the shoulders have to be blunt, or it would cut), then when the stitch line is finished, a little hammering helps to close it back up. Make sure you match your awl blade size to your hole/thread size. If you go too big, you end up with more hole than you need (and more chance for the holes to tear).

[AZNightwolf]

X4 on the Awl, it will change the way you view the world. I h8ted life til I found this out

[Dan Miller]

  On 7/19/2017 at 10:48 PM, cradom said:

I'm not qualified to recommend a brand but it doesn't have to be expensive. I use a Barry King with a Tandy blade (after much sharpening, will try another brand next time).

Expand  

My awl-work was jumpstarted, IMO, by starting with Barry King awl blades. They cost $25, but come polished, sharp, and ready to use out of the box.

[Dun]

 

if I'm seeing it correctly, if not, feel free to ignore
any inner corners(90* or more acute angles) should be made with a sharp round punch. I'll look for a pic to demonstrate.

 

 

edit: here is a tandy example 

Edited July 21, 2017 by Dun