cjartist Report post Posted August 4, 2017 I was looking for a motorized burnisher to save my hands. Hand burnishing is okay for small things but when you move into working with long edges ... Uggh! So I was looking around for options and I ended up with this setup. I had the cheap Harbor Freight bench grinder that I got on barter a couple years ago. The spindle was $13.10 from eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/TAPERED-SPINDLE-1-2-HOLE-RIGHT-SIDE-OF-MOTOR-POLISHING-BUFFING-WHEEL-HOLDER/190689483141 And the wheel was $8.00 from Tandy. Yeah, I'm cheap ... broke is more like it. But I highly recommend this setup for anyone that needs a little help doing edges and doesn't have a fortune to spend. Enjoy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
garypl Report post Posted August 4, 2017 Did you just jam the burnisher onto the spindle? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fire88 Report post Posted August 4, 2017 Ive been thinking of doing something very similar, Good work Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AdamGadut Report post Posted August 4, 2017 you may want a burnishing wheel with more varieties in the thickness it can burnish - maybe 5 in one burnisher. Two is ok if that covers everything you do though. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted August 5, 2017 (edited) 3 hours ago, garypl said: Did you just jam the burnisher onto the spindle? No, the spindle is threaded in the opposite direction of rotation. The wheel is just hand turned on and the spindle essentially threads itself into the wood. It becomes self tightening when it meets resistance. This is typically used with polishing wheels by jewelers. Edited August 5, 2017 by cjartist Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted August 13, 2017 That's actually quite a clever way to mount the burnisher! It never occurred to me when I was making my burnishers - so simple that I missed it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted August 15, 2017 On 8/13/2017 at 1:29 AM, dikman said: That's actually quite a clever way to mount the burnisher! It never occurred to me when I was making my burnishers - so simple that I missed it. Thanks, I only found the solution out of necessity of not having the $$. It works quite well too. All that I need for now Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpha2 Report post Posted August 15, 2017 Note that there are right hand spindles and left hand spindles. If you use the wrong one, instead of tightening under load, it runs off and shoots across the floor!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cjartist Report post Posted August 16, 2017 15 hours ago, alpha2 said: Note that there are right hand spindles and left hand spindles. If you use the wrong one, instead of tightening under load, it runs off and shoots across the floor!!! Ha ha, yes very important to be sure to buy the right one. That truly could be an expensive mistake ... "be careful kid, you could take an eye out with that thing" Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted August 17, 2017 Actually, unless you've got something completely different on your side of the pond, every grinder that I've come across has had a left-hand thread on one side and a right-hand thread on the other. It is impossible to fit the wrong spindle on the wrong side, so whichever side you use it will always tighten up (unless you some how manage to reverse the motor direction). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpha2 Report post Posted August 18, 2017 That may be. The only motors I have experience with are Dental equipment. Straight, smooth arbor, the cones tap on and have a left and a right. Nice thing is that they are two speed. The low is just about right for burnishing. Still trying to find one that some dentist is through with...I have 133 days to get it done, then I retire, and my dental connections are kaput. And I'm alright with that! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted August 19, 2017 Ok, that explains your comment. Sounds like a nice motor if you can get hold of one, good luck with the retirement (I can highly recommend it ). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DrmCa Report post Posted August 21, 2017 I've been thinking... Since burnishing wheel can be made on a wood lathe, is there a point in moving it off to another motor? A mini wood lathe can probably serve as a burnisher. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
alpha2 Report post Posted August 21, 2017 Good idea! And, the speed is probably right where you want it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted August 21, 2017 Only negative I can see is that access may be an issue, as most motorised burnishers usually have the wheel hanging over the edge of a table which gives better access for long pieces (belts). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted August 22, 2017 I recently got my hands on a shopsmith. I think it could serve very well in playing with leather. I haven't gotten to get it all lined up yet, though. I bought it for work and it is at the shop. I am slowly making a space for it in our wood work area. But, I can only work towards that when we are really slow. These things can be had for next to nothing if you look for them. If you wanted to try woodworking out I would suggest looking for the 510 or 520 models as they have the bigger better table systems. But I'm confident any model could be useful for leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LumpenDoodle2 Report post Posted August 22, 2017 On 18/08/2017 at 0:52 AM, dikman said: Actually, unless you've got something completely different on your side of the pond, every grinder that I've come across has had a left-hand thread on one side and a right-hand thread on the other. It is impossible to fit the wrong spindle on the wrong side, so whichever side you use it will always tighten up (unless you some how manage to reverse the motor direction). I have a cheap and chearful grinder, which came with the grinding wheels bolted onto the shafts. I removed those, and bought a left, and a right hand threaded fittings for burnishing wheels to screw onto. As with most tools, the upgrading continued, and now I have a Nigel Armatage burnishing thing bolted onto one shaft, and a sanding drum bolted onto the other. If I want to do a bit knife polishing, I can remove either side, fit the tapered screw, and then the polishing wheel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
garypl Report post Posted August 22, 2017 12 hours ago, bikermutt07 said: I recently got my hands on a shopsmith. I think it could serve very well in playing with leather. I haven't gotten to get it all lined up yet, though. I bought it for work and it is at the shop. I am slowly making a space for it in our wood work area. But, I can only work towards that when we are really slow. These things can be had for next to nothing if you look for them. If you wanted to try woodworking out I would suggest looking for the 510 or 520 models as they have the bigger better table systems. But I'm confident any model could be useful for leather. I bought a new Shopsmith in 1976 that I still use regularly. 12" disk sander works great for smoothing edges and you can easily vary the speed. I haven't priced them lately, but I paid around $1200 back in 1976! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted August 23, 2017 The newer ones are more. They don't make the mark 5 anymore, although all the parts are still available. The 510 ($3500) is the standard now. The 520 ($3800) is an upgrade from that. The power pro 520 ($4200) has a digitally controlled head. I bought a 1981 model with the 510 tables. It has the jointer, the 6" belt sander, the bandsaw. I got it for $700 on Craigslist. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
garypl Report post Posted August 23, 2017 9 hours ago, bikermutt07 said: The newer ones are more. They don't make the mark 5 anymore, although all the parts are still available. The 510 ($3500) is the standard now. The 520 ($3800) is an upgrade from that. The power pro 520 ($4200) has a digitally controlled head. I bought a 1981 model with the 510 tables. It has the jointer, the 6" belt sander, the bandsaw. I got it for $700 on Craigslist. You got a sweet deal - the accessories cost me @$400 each when I bought them! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikermutt07 Report post Posted August 25, 2017 That is the best way to buy them. It's like accessories don't really add any value when buying used. I have been watching them for a few months and people that are asking 2000 or more always wind up not selling. The trick I think is to find one with the 510 table. That is a really expensive upgrade from the factory ($1500). They usually bring 800 to 1000 with that upgrade. The mark V's can be had all day long for 3-500.00. Anyone selling the power pro that knows what they have wants 3 or 4000. I did see one that went on eBay for about 1500. Wish I could have bid on that one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dikman Report post Posted August 26, 2017 " It's like accessories don't really add any value when buying used" . Applies to other things too, when I traded in one of my motorbikes (on another one) the salesman said to strip off all the extras because they'll give me the same price, with or without them! If there are extras the buyer usually gets the benefits, but the seller doesn't. I remember the Shopsmith's from many years ago (when I used to read Popular Mechanics). Always wanted one but 1) couldn't get them in Oz and 2) too expensive anyhow for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
